Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
A fairly popular route with some good but run-out climbing and tricky starts to both pitches - high in the grade. Begin 9m right of the Zelda corner under a very slim right-facing groove (this is 3m right of a notice board bolted to the wall).
1) 5a, 25m. Gain the groove by a bouldery move and ascend it (peg on right wall, just above a horizontal crack) to easing ground and a tunnel through a band of trees. Head up the cleanest line to peg and nut belays on the right.
2) 5a, 34m. The moves off the belay are difficult and precarious. Move up to the foot of a borehole and pull left (peg) to reach an open groove and follow it to a tree. Move right above the tree and then climb the wall above to reach the right-hand of two grooves (peg). Climb the groove to a small tree just above a horizontal break. Head out right along the break and make some long moves to a good ledge, from where easier ground gains a bolted belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch starts with a difficult semi-mantle onto a sloping hold then presses on steeply to the belay. The moves off the belay on the second pitch are difficult and precarious (take care) but lead to lovely open and bold climbing on the left side of the upper wall. A route at the high end of the grade overall.
J Willson, S R Smith 24/Oct/1979.
Orange Spot Lower Wye , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , The post lockdown local list , 23 HVS routes for 2023
User | Date | Notes | ||
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inglesp | 23 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: "Head out right along the break" -- note that this does not mean hand-traverse right onto the E2! | ||
Show beta
βeta: "Head out right along the break" -- note that this does not mean hand-traverse right onto the E2! |
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alasdaircavaye | 1 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: P1 anchor is (old) pegs and old static, no rings for ab. If you don't have long enough ropes to go all the way down we were able to traverse right (facing wall), redirect around two good trees to get to the bolted anchors of Never Say Never Again. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: P1 anchor is (old) pegs and old static, no rings for ab. If you don't have long enough ropes to go all the way down we were able to traverse right (facing wall), redirect around two good trees to get to the bolted anchors of Never Say Never Again. |
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ChloeJ | 27 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Recommend bringing micro wires and cams for P2. Nightmare pulling the ropes down in the dark, would do a second ab if I were to repeat. ‘Tunnel through a band of trees’ is certainly what it is, lots of places for your knot to get stuck in. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Recommend bringing micro wires and cams for P2. Nightmare pulling the ropes down in the dark, would do a second ab if I were to repeat. ‘Tunnel through a band of trees’ is certainly what it is, lots of places for your knot to get stuck in. |
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brian watson | 15 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: P2. run out on 2nd pitch, after the crux. Although climbing is very good. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: P2. run out on 2nd pitch, after the crux. Although climbing is very good. |
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Andre Clarke | 15 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: 3rd pitch seem quite run out protection | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 3rd pitch seem quite run out protection |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)