Rockfax Description
A high-quality pitch which relies mostly on well-spaced fixed protection. The route follows the tall white wall left of the central broken corner. Start below a prominent peg at 10m, left of the broken corner. Climb easily to below the peg, pull up to it then step right and move up to a bolt. Make hard fingery moves to the next bolt and then, with little respite, make some insecure reaches to a positive diagonal break and good wires. Move right and up to a small ledge and a rest. Climb the wild upper wall on much better holds past a good thread and a bolt. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb easily to a peg in a break at 7 metres. Step right and climb the very sustained, crimpy wall, past two bolts, to the main break. Step up into a shallow groove and move up to a thread in orange rock. Continue to a bolt and make some hard moves past this to good holds and an easier finish.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Bristoldave 16/Oct Lead dog
with Tim_C7
Bates 23/Dec/15 Lead RP

Ooooh jimmi you beauty! Fantastic route with great movement the whole way. Done in sports style with extended sling from the tat and first bolt pre clipped.

with Andy Brice
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead RP
Tomar 14/Mar/15 Lead RP

Depressingly cold again today but psyched up and got on with it. Went fine on my third lead after a false start. Done in sport style with strategically extended clips to reduce air miles. Love this piece of rock

with Toby
Garrouli 06/Dec/14 Lead RP

Great thin, technical climbing! Lead it with all clips and gear pre-placed and some bolts extended to reduce the fear factor! Handsome Jim next then.....

with Matt Williams
Wendy 30/Nov/13 TR RP

A really nice technical climb but I'd never lead it as it is. A strange partly bolted route.

James Marshall 14/Oct/12 Lead RP

A contrived E6, I did it with first bolt pre-clipped as a hard 7b+. I would vote for the peg being replaced with a bolt, it would then be a tremendous sports route with supplementary, easy to place, bomber gear.

with Tom Ball
colesy 23/Nov/11 Lead RP

Replaced the dodgy bottom peg. Feels more like a spicy runout 7b+ than E6 now

Mike Goldthorp 18/Nov/11 Lead dog

Great thin wall climbing, just how I like it. Peg can be backed up ok with rp's (equalize em with the peg and they're ok) and then its a bit of a clip up from there, but fell on the crux gettin up to the break and forgot sequence at the top, needed a bit more workin perhaps. If the peg was made into a bolt it might aswell be a 7b+ sport route with scary but safe clips.

with Paul R
richsmithinbristol 11/Jun/11 Lead dog

Fell off going up to the break. Gutted. All moves done though at least.

Pippa 11/Jun/11 2nd dog

Hard but fantastic

with Richard
Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

The peg that protects the initial hard section is in a terrible state. You ca get a couple of RP's, but not very inspiring. A good chance of someone coming a real cropper on this. Any objections to replacing it with a bolt?

Ged Desforges ??/2011 Lead RP

New peg makes it a lot less scary at the start, yet still characterful! Great route, redpointed in cold crisp conditions.

guy xavier percival 26/Jul/98 Lead RP
with woody
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