Rockfax Description
A high-quality pitch which relies mostly on well-spaced fixed protection. The route follows the tall white wall left of the central broken corner. Start below a prominent peg at 10m, left of the broken corner. Climb easily to below the peg, pull up to it then step right and move up to a bolt. Make hard fingery moves to the next bolt and then, with little respite, make some insecure reaches to a positive diagonal break and good wires. Move right and up to a small ledge and a rest. Climb the wild upper wall on much better holds past a good thread and a bolt. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb easily to a peg in a break at 7 metres. Step right and climb the very sustained, crimpy wall, past two bolts, to the main break. Step up into a shallow groove and move up to a thread in orange rock. Continue to a bolt and make some hard moves past this to good holds and an easier finish.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Hidden 10/Oct Lead RP
Tomar 14/Mar Lead RP

Depressingly cold again today but psyched up and got on with it. Went fine on my third lead after a false start. Done in sport style with strategically extended clips to reduce air miles. Love this piece of rock

with Toby
Garrouli 06/Dec/14 Lead RP

Great thin, technical climbing! Lead it with all clips and gear pre-placed and some bolts extended to reduce the fear factor! Handsome Jim next then.....

with Matt Williams
Wendy 30/Nov/13 TR RP

A really nice technical climb but I'd never lead it as it is. A strange partly bolted route.

with Tom Ball
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead RP
colesy 23/Nov/11 Lead RP

Replaced the dodgy bottom peg. Feels more like a spicy runout 7b+ than E6 now

Mike Goldthorp 18/Nov/11 Lead dog

Great thin wall climbing, just how I like it. Peg can be backed up ok with rp's (equalize em with the peg and they're ok) and then its a bit of a clip up from there, but fell on the crux gettin up to the break and forgot sequence at the top, needed a bit more workin perhaps. If the peg was made into a bolt it might aswell be a 7b+ sport route with scary but safe clips.

with Paul R
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
Pippa 11/Jun/11 2nd dog

Hard but fantastic

with Richard
Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

The peg that protects the initial hard section is in a terrible state. You ca get a couple of RP's, but not very inspiring. A good chance of someone coming a real cropper on this. Any objections to replacing it with a bolt?

Ged Desforges ??/2011 Lead RP

New peg makes it a lot less scary at the start, yet still characterful! Great route, redpointed in cold crisp conditions.

guy xavier percival 26/Jul/98 Lead RP
with woody
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
derico, Justin T, ericinbristol, brices, Hidden, Hidden, Mike Goldthorp, _m.cox_, Stanners
High E7
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