Rockfax Description
III, 165m, 3 - 4 hours. Not always formed, this route is an excellent (but much tougher) alternative to the Chéré Couloir when that is busy. It is possible to belay straight underneath the route but better to use a bolt belay 20m to the left which avoids the worst of the ice fall from above.
1) 3+, 50m. Follow the thin, slabby gully (70 degrees) which finishes up a slightly steeper corner.
2) 4+, 30m. The gully continues past two short, steep sections, which are well protected and lead to a belay tucked in on the left.
3) 5, 35m. Traverse right for 3m and climb the slabby corner above to a bolted belay either in, or a couple of metres above the Chéré Couloir, depending on the thickness of the ice. The pitch is trickier than it looks and is easier with plenty of ice.
4) 5, 30m. Climb the slab above the belay to reach parallel cracks and climb the left one, before making a bold traverse back right to climb the thin ice gully above.
Either abseil down the Chéré Couloir or finish up it. © Rockfax

Godefroy Perroux early 80's


ClimberDateStyle
harry_lewis 23/Jun AltLd O/S

Thin and hollow ice lower down, m5 pitch totally dry but still doable with decent hooks and some french free! bailed where it meets the chèré as the ice fully ran out

with Matt Groom, Matt Harmon, Ben Coope
Matt Groom 23/Jun AltLd
alexm198 26/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Very delicate climbing on thin ice with some good mixed steps thrown in. Gaining the left edge of the Chere on P4 was interesting as the slab was bone dry. Last pitch had not formed so we rapped down the Chere.

Matt Harle 26/Sep/14 AltLd
steve_gibbs 11/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
with Hannah
Hidden 05/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
Rafal Malczyk 04/Jul/14 2nd dnf

Started wrong route and retreated as there was no ice in the higher section.

with Efe Tunc
efetunc 03/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Climbed the first five pitches of the route in error thinking we were on Goulette Chere(Chere Gully). Pitch #6 did not have any ice or snow on it. Abseiled back to the glacier leaving a nut and a karabiner behind.

with Rafal Malczyk
Hidden 03/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
mattfarr 13/Sep/13 2nd
with Dave BMG, Will
Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/13 AltLd dnf
BorisVBlade 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Kilian Sutz
Hidden 05/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Suzana ??/2012 AltLd dnf

Joined Chere where they get close and abbed down as we were not inspired to carry on that day.

with Lothar Marte
Stephen18 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
d_meacher ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Only did first two pitches then abbed off due to very thin ice

with Edvin Mellergard
stevepotter 10/Sep/10 -
with Matt
Dave Almond 02/Mar/10 AltLd

Very cold start

with Mark Thomas
Tom Livingstone ?/Mar/10 -
Dave Searle ??/2010 -
Hidden 09/Sep/08 -
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden ??/1988 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Timothy Miller, Dream-Ice, Hidden, Luuuke
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