Modica-Noury*** TD+
[Steep ice on the Modica-Noury (AI5+), Mont Blanc du Tacul., 2 kb]500m. III 5+ using the Damilano grading scale. Begins with a snow couloir common to Gabarrou-Albinoni. after 30 to 40 meters a short section of 80 degree ice, then a belay on climbers right. head up the large snow couloir to the Y clipping in situ belay tat. we moved together to reach the first belay unique to Modica-Noury which is 15 meters past the Y on climbers left, up and in the rocks. From here the climbing becomes more interesting. We moved together for about two pitches, nothing too severe and belayed the 15 meters of vertical ice and rock climbing, then moved together again to the top. Last 10 meter pitch of vertical was also nice. Stopped at the beginning of the mixed section before top snowfield as we were not walking off the normal route of Mt. Blanc du Tacul. Rappelled off using in situ belays.
Gilles Modica, Antoine Noury 24/Jun/1979

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Photo: Steep ice on the Modica-Noury (AI5+), Mont Blanc du Tacul. © gav p
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This climb is in 30 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/15 with Rob Goodman

robgixer - AltLd - 23/Mar/15 with lee harrison

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Mar/15

QuentinSu - AltLd - 11/Mar/15

vegarye - AltLd - 31/Mar/14

darcan - AltLd - 31/Mar/14 with Vegarye

BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Kilian Sutz

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/Mar/13

I led to start of pitching. Did P1 and P2 then abbed off
clams - 2nd dnf - Jan/13 with Jim+Mark

Dave Searle - 2013

stevepotter - 2nd - 25/Jan/11 with Matt

Ben Briggs - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/10 with Tom

went up initial gully, regular small slides coming down from snow-patch above, retreated.
Matt Bennett - AltLd dnf - 21/Aug/10 with Mr Lopez, Lewis Grey

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 21/Aug/10

Oliver Sherman - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Roger Knox

Stuart Johnston - AltLd - Feb/08 with g taylor

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Nov/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/07

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Apr/07

edek_w - 31/Mar/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/07

sgl - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/06 with Konnie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/06

nice climb, the first half goes very quickly. the crux pitch was fun to lead but the short pitch towards the top was also dif to second. 5 hours round trip. most beautiful view of alps from high up in couloir i have yet to see
Yyonnx - AltLd - 05/Feb/06 with chris

zero six - AltLd O/S - 2006

Hidden - 04/Apr/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/99

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/98

Last 2 mixed pitches much harder than the rest.
mark-abz - AltLd - 25/Mar/94 with Bill S

Started a bit too early and finished in the dark. Got back to the Abri Simmond bivi as other people were setting out to go to rock routes. An excellent route.
GaryK - AltLd O/S - Jul/87 with Andy de Klerk

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alexm198, Timothy Miller, wi11, prcleary, ndraper1, benclimbing, stanleynkk, MSchobitz, Dino Dave, jamesbrown1979, Rob84

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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S