500m.

Rockfax Description
III, 185m. One of the most famous mixed routes on the Tacul's east face, this is a true winter gem. The climbing is superb and the ambiance amazing. The bergschrund is straightforward but can be wide in late season. The couloir itself is usually (depending on snow cover) around 55 degrees all the way but steepens gradually for the final 100m. Depending on conditions it may be worth pitching the final section if time allows. The first proper belay is on the right, just out of the fall line from the first technical pitch.
1) 3, 40m. Traverse left and climb the 70 degree ice gully and belay on the left beneath another, marginally steeper gully.
2) 3+, 30m. Stay left and continue up the ice gully, trying not to knock down too much onto your partner and/or other climbers - the gully makes a perfect funnel.
3) 4, 30m. The gully kicks up to close to vertical before easing off to reach a snow slope. Belay at the foot of this.
4) 2, 40m. Climb the snow slope easily, passing a couple of optional intermediate belays.
5) 4+, 45m. The crux of this one is where it should be on every route - at the top! Follow the gully up some steep and sometimes thin ice to a belay on the right, overlooking the snow slope on pitch 4.
Descent - Abseil on fixed anchors preferably on 2 x 60m ropes but there are other belays if required. It is possible to continue over moderate mixed ground to reach the summit of the Tacul and descend Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face but, even without the skis, most still abseil. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This gully is the the classic East face route of the Tacul. About 500m to the top of the main difficulties (where most people abseil off - fixed belays), about 700m to the top.

Jean-Pierre Albinoni, Patrick Gabarrou 04/Jul/1974

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter.


ClimberDateStyle
7toes 20/Apr -
Hidden 25/Mar AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar AltLd rpt
kelly_426 ?/Jan -
with tom redmond, Luke Dudill
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 17/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 29/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Davesmith1981 12/Apr/15 AltLd
with neil phillips
Gumery 10/Apr/15 2nd O/S
jimmatthews 10/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Climbed quick, but not enough time between the Midi breaking down and the last montenvers train. Got to below the last (crux) pitch.

machars 14/Mar/15 Lead

Had route to ourselves!

Hidden 14/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
QuentinSu 20/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Suzana 26/Oct/14 AltLd dnf

Led most of the way. Did not do the last steep pitch. As I was tiered and my partner cold.

with Pat Brownlie
Hidden 19/Oct/14 AltLd
Hidden 19/Oct/14 AltLd
wi11 01/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Moved together. In good condition

with Simon
frost ?/Oct/14 -
with will hardy
Hidden 07/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 02/Apr/14 Lead
fulton333 ?/Apr/14 AltLd
with Matt
ndraper1 21/Mar/14 AltLd

Great climb, in pretty good condition given how dry everything is. Loads of gear and equipped belays/abseil tatt. Had it all to our selves!

chapmand 21/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Paul Figg 20/Mar/14 AltLd

With Lawrence and Andy, great route.

with Andy Brown, Lawrence Monckton
edek_w 20/Mar/14 -
with Blazej
Alasdair Fulton 18/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Great fun, a bit busy.

Ross Barnes 18/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Ally
Hidden 14/Mar/14 AltLd
Sam Simpson 14/Mar/14 AltLd dnf
James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden 08/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Rhys Macallister 08/Mar/13 AltLd
with anders
Ly-Cilph 06/Apr/12 AltLd dnf

Partner became ill with AMS and so had to turn back after about two-thirds... darn. Gorgeous setting though! And very, very busy.

with Piet W
Big Lee 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Good conditions, although the ice was a little thin for optimal screw protection in places. Very stepped out and felt easy as a result. Also very busy. At one point there were three teams on one belay. One of which pulled there ab rope down as I started to lead off resulting in their rope ending up wrapped around my neck with rope burn.

mikeyjbs 27/Mar/12 AltLd
liamo333 16/Jan/12 -
sarpedon 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with dougie swanson-low
dswansonlow 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with sarp
Hidden 13/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead
stuart34 01/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, needed 60m ropes for the first few ab's.

with Martin
smithaldo ?/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

lovely route, intro slope alot longer than expected and 11 abseils as well! hooked to devilry but great views from the belays. First winter alpine route.

with mark j
Hidden ?/Mar/10 AltLd
keith leonard ??/2010 AltLd
Dave Searle ??/2010 -
mike.moss ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with Kane Chandler
Hidden 15/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Nicos 14/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with keith leonard
Brian Birtle 10/Jan/06 2nd

Got past four of the technical pitches before reaching our turn-around time. Nice climb!

with Nuno
Hidden 06/Apr/05 -
Hidden ?/Mar/99 AltLd
stokesrees ??/1997 AltLd
with Asmus Norveslet
crossleysm ?/Mar/95 -

with Neil

Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/89 -
GaryK ?/Dec/88 AltLd O/S

A good route. The days were very short and we descended the normal route in the dark and a quite strong wind, which had been blowing all day. There was quite a lot of spindrift blowing around on the route.

with Andy Cave
GaryK ?/Dec/88 AltLd O/S
with Andy Cave
Hidden ?/Jan/79 -
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