Big Fly Direct*** E1 5a
[Big Fly Direct, 3 kb]The first pitch is a BIG lead, very sustained but never too difficult with a variety of styles required. Second pitch gives good honest jamming/laybacking up the corner to a none too inspiring stance and belay - better to carry on to the top.

Ticklists: Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Big Fly Direct © Chris Sieradzki
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This climb is in 122 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

danbirkby - AltLd rpt - 02/Oct/15 with Gordon

Quality climbing but the rock quality lets it down, entire route is loose/rattly. Lots of care required. I had ran out of big gear by the pillar so did the last 10 meters with only a peg for gear. Didn't think this was the crux but I was very focused. Also second pitch was nails. Easily 5b.
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/15 with Felix

felixizzy - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/15 with Caleb

Led 1st and 3rd pitches.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/15 with Tim

1st and 2nd pitches. Brilliant.
bonelessivar - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/15 with Alan

Led P3 up the slabby wall right of corner. An excellent route with the crux at the top of P1 pulling left out of the crack under the roof. Lots of continuous 4c climbing with 5a thrown in every now and then. Had to hang on the rope to unthread a nut through the flattened-peg well off to the left of the crack base on P1.
wurzelinzummerset - AltLd - 11/Jul/15 with Ric

First E1 since my layoff. Really pleased. Good steady 5a climbing with plenty of gear and great rock. Lovely climb.
danbirkby - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/15 with Nige

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/15

Aaron Lines - 2nd - 07/Jun/15 with frank ramsay

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/May/15

Tim_C7 - AltLd O/S - 10/May/15 with Luke Williams

London Luke - 2nd O/S - 10/May/15 with Tim O'hannaran

Lead first pitch, Derek lead 2nd one.The latter more awkward than it looks.
No? Yes! - AltLd - 09/May/15

bigbobbyking - 2nd O/S - 04/May/15

poeter210 - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/15 with carlos

lead P2 & 3 as one.
alastairbegley - AltLd rpt - 21/Apr/15 with Jason

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/15 with Debbie

Led p2&p3 linked - a lesson in rope drag .. but makes more sense
Jon Didymus - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/15 with Paul

ian bryant - Lead - 2015

I linked 2nd and 3rd pitch. Awesome climbing throughout
RichyBOYY - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/14 with Ben Darby

Great route, the tough stuff never ends!
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/14 with Ric E

AlexRenshaw - AltLd - 19/Oct/14 with Ted Lister

Quite hard for a HVS 5a, with very sustained climbing.
wilkinscl - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Ned

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/14

BicycleBradley - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14

Charles P1, Julian P2/3 together
JulianB - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Charles Green

Les first pitch, flippen awesome. Julian lead 2, 3 together, great laybacking (pumpy) and cool moves on last bit. Would be great if last pitch was directly above the second.
charles-green - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14

Led P1, P2; Simon led P3 as it got dark. Forgot how much fun the moves are on P1
simonf - AltLd - 19/Aug/14 with Simon

Good, honest 5a route. Traversing the first, short pillar fine as a second, but leading it would be bold as the next piece of pro is quite run out from the nuts at the groove at start of pillar. Led p2 & 3 together which is fine as long as you extend your pro adequately. Several plum holds were lose!
sara n - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Paul Wolf

Tom Brierley Gore - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/14 with Shijing Hu

Bailed after P1 because it began to rain.
Kirill - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/14 with Charles Moreton

Hidden - 2014

AidanMorris - AltLd O/S - Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd RP - 16/Aug/13

All Pitches. P2 and P3 together. Fell off near the very top as my hand hold came off while using it. F(quite bold if you dont use the left corner). hard hit on some ledges first then tumble a little further. I carried on aiding myself on the easy corner on the left i don't know how, rolled over to safety then called for help as i was in lots of pains and could not move to set up the belay. Ambulance took me to A nd E. nothing broken and was discharged at 3am luckily, only bruising, muscles and soft tissue injury i presume but hell it hurts today! Nice route mindu, might be a tad harder now without that hand hold at the end, sorry...Thank you bpmclimb (bill?) and Clare for helping me at the top
Fred_Richard - Lead - 16/Aug/13 with andymccoy

All pitches. Linked 2 and 3 with a big sling on the belay pegs to reduce drag. Stiff for 5a on all pitches. 5b for 1st and 2nd.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13 with H.Watchorn

Leigh P1, me P2 and P3 although we paused between the 2nd and 3rd. Very impressed with Leigh's lead on P1. I felt that the move below the last overhang was harder than 5a but I'm not in much shape to judge and particularly after pulling a massive block off of the face after the first peg before the first roof. This scared me and affected my climbing for the rest of the climb. I could have given up climbing at first :-) If Leigh had pulled the same block off whilst he led I might have been seriously hurt or worse - chilling.
puppythedog - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/13 with leigh

I lead first pitch which was long and awesome. James suffered a big rock fall while seconding - we were both very lucky! James lead 2nd and 3rd pitches. There were some tough moves.
leigh - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/13 with James

ianto - 2013

Lead p1, great route!
alastairbegley - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Chris Begley, Julia Begley

with Chris Bull
Murilo Lessa - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Chris Bull

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 04/Sep/12

First E1 lead!
MikeLell - Lead β - 19/Aug/12 with Ernest

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 19/Aug/12

Led P2. Nice Route, never too difficult anywhere. First bit of E1 leading, although this was an easy section.
MikeLell - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Dave

Tom Brierley Gore - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Nick Eaton

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jul/12

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with frank ramsay

Led P2 and P3 (ran them together). P2 good fun. Was a bit too far right for the final wall of P3, felt quite desperate!
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Caroline Culwick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12

Briefly weighted the peg on the second pitch...
Scotsken - Lead - 27/May/12

AlexRenshaw - AltLd - 13/May/12 with Ted Lister

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12

Scared Chris on P1 when he asked me to take and fell a lot further than he expected - my stance collapsed and rolled down the slope. Led P2. Nice, straightforward and well protected. Planned to do P3 as well, but could barely pull the rope at the base of the wall, so went back to the pegs and belayed from there.
Hooo - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Chris Sieradzki

Messed up at the first overhang, instead of going to the left i tried to go directly through the overhang. Pulled on jug and than spoted peg on the left and realized i was out of the route. Asked partner to take and gained Big Fly. Continued clean to the top.
Chris Sieradzki - AltLd - 11/Mar/12 with Hooo

timtimpeggy - 2012

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Sep/11

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 28/Sep/11 with helen

s.c.white - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with mike thomas, Tim Ashlin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/11

frank ramsay - AltLd - 21/Aug/11 with Nick Gregory

Nearly fell on 1st when hold broke. Did fall on second. Was dark on third.
localboy - 2nd dog - 16/Aug/11 with Simon C, Simon F

Beefy route, quite taxing in the heat. Falling off the final little pitch would be a really bad idea.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/11 with Clare

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Jun/11

Led the second and third pitches in one. Fairly sustained yet straight-forward crack climbing on pitch 2. Pitch three made trickier by running pitches together.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with alex malins

Did long p1 and very short p3, Nathan p2. nice route, my first multipitch E1. Soft touch apparently. some loose looking blocks and flakes.
Fred_Richard - Lead - 28/Jun/11 with Nathan

Hidden - 2011

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch. 5a. Sustained physical. 3rd not really a pitch, if leading 2nd pitch don't clip pegs at belay and pitch it out. BEWARE, lots of loose holds and some will undoubtable fall/break soon, especially on 1st pitch
darren hudson - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/10 with David Ford

Bit dirty, lead all 3 pitches. Possibly did P3 a bit wrong, placed gear in corner, then climbed wall to right
Sam W - Lead - 23/May/10 with Dave Frost

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 03/May/10 with James

Phil PBC - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Completed the climb today
poey50 - Lead β - 29/Aug/09 with Rowan15

Abbed off after first pitch with two hurt left shoulders and one bad tum between us. But still worth doing. A bit bold up to the second peg - unless I missed something.
poey50 - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Rowan15

JimR - 02/Aug/09

abbed from top of second pitch due to downpour
3 Names - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/09

Tom led P1, I did P2 and P3 in one push - rope drag wasn't a problem. Final headwall a bit scary - solid micro low down but would probably hit the large ledge if you come off the last few moves.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09

Lead P1, seconded P 2+3. lovely.
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Eric Herring

Led the first pitch
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 25/May/09 with Andy Tobin

lead first and third
mike lawrence? - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09 with Giles

2nd pitch
gdb4060 - Lead - 23/May/09 with Mike

simonf - AltLd rpt - 12/May/09 with Simon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09

TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Dave Gale

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08

Led 2nd & 3rd pitches o/s in one. Love this route!
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08 with Will

Led all three pitches
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08 with Roger

First pitch only as it was getting late, possibly the best pitch I've ever climbed. Will be back again!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Toby Kluth

Led P1&3
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/08 with Joe

maybe_si - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/07 with jamie

Circus - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/07 with Lou

Hidden - 2007

simonf - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - Lead RP - 03/Apr/06

beardy mike - 2006 with Rob Scheicl

markfromstoke - 2006

Oli got the plum first pitch and lead it superbly
chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/05 with bux

Led 1st pitch
Bux - AltLd O/S - Oct/05 with Chris Wyatt

A great route of three contrasting pitches. A word of caution: a TV-sized block is hanging loose at the belay at the end of the second pitch. Seriously loose. The fall line is straight down the pitch so climbers beware. This ought to be removed before someone is hurt. Further, several pegs mentioned in the guide are missing.
Stefan Kruger - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/05 with Sarah Porter

Urgles - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Pete Debbage

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/02

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/02

bullybones - 2002

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 20/Jun/01 with Tony Bird

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 2001 with Paddy Wilson

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Like a bigger, beefier Pembroke route.
alan moore - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Hidden - Lead - 1997

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/92 with Linus

RichardMc - AltLd - 31/May/92 with Zbysek Lustyk

mikej - AltLd - 23/May/92 with Nick Salmon

RichardMc - Lead - 02/Jun/91 with Angel Vila

mikej - AltLd - 26/May/91 with Mike Byles

ChrisJD - AltLd - 29/Aug/88

Guy - Lead O/S - 1987

Combined P1 and 2
leland stamper - AltLd - Apr/85 with Pete Johnson?

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JoeE, hutchay, Roget, reffle, Owen W-G, Matt250, Chris Sansum, Dave89, andy dunn, iforwms, ron244, saz_b, Dr Caterpillar, Dax, scorpia97

Total votes cast 104
hard E20 of 35
E20 of 35
easy E20 of 35
hard E10 of 35
E128 of 35
easy E16 of 35
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hard 5b0 of 35
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP