The first pitch is a BIG lead, very sustained but never too difficult with a variety of styles required. Second pitch gives good honest jamming/laybacking up the corner to a none too inspiring stance and belay - better to carry on to the top.

Ticklists: Ultimate E1 ticklist.

danbirkby 02/Oct AltLd rpt
with Gordon
Kemics 01/Aug AltLd O/S

Quality climbing but the rock quality lets it down, entire route is loose/rattly. Lots of care required. I had ran out of big gear by the pillar so did the last 10 meters with only a peg for gear. Didn't think this was the crux but I was very focused. Also second pitch was nails. Easily 5b.

with Felix
felixizzy 01/Aug AltLd O/S
with Caleb
Andrew Sloan 31/Jul AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitches.

with Tim
bonelessivar 11/Jul AltLd O/S

1st and 2nd pitches. Brilliant.

with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 11/Jul AltLd

Led P3 up the slabby wall right of corner. An excellent route with the crux at the top of P1 pulling left out of the crack under the roof. Lots of continuous 4c climbing with 5a thrown in every now and then. Had to hang on the rope to unthread a nut through the flattened-peg well off to the left of the crack base on P1.

with Ric
danbirkby 30/Jun Lead rpt

First E1 since my layoff. Really pleased. Good steady 5a climbing with plenty of gear and great rock. Lovely climb.

with Nige
Hidden 15/Jun 2nd O/S
Aaron Lines 07/Jun 2nd
Hidden 12/May AltLd rpt
Tim_C7 10/May AltLd O/S
with Luke Williams
London Luke 10/May 2nd O/S
No? Yes! 09/May AltLd

Lead first pitch, Derek lead 2nd one.The latter more awkward than it looks.

bigbobbyking 04/May 2nd O/S
poeter210 25/Apr AltLd O/S


with carlos
alastairbegley 21/Apr AltLd rpt

lead P2 & 3 as one.

with Jason
Marti999 15/Apr Lead O/S
with Debbie
Didymus 09/Apr AltLd O/S

Led p2&p3 linked - a lesson in rope drag .. but makes more sense

with Paul
ian bryant ??/2015 Lead
RichyBOYY 31/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

I linked 2nd and 3rd pitch. Awesome climbing throughout

Cheese Monkey 31/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Great route, the tough stuff never ends!

with Ric E
AlexRenshaw 19/Oct/14 AltLd
with Ted Lister
wilkinscl 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Quite hard for a HVS 5a, with very sustained climbing.

with Ned
Hidden 11/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
BicycleBradley 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
JulianB 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Charles P1, Julian P2/3 together

with Charles Green
charles-green 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Les first pitch, flippen awesome. Julian lead 2, 3 together, great laybacking (pumpy) and cool moves on last bit. Would be great if last pitch was directly above the second.

simonf 19/Aug/14 AltLd

Led P1, P2; Simon led P3 as it got dark. Forgot how much fun the moves are on P1

with Simon
sara n 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Good, honest 5a route. Traversing the first, short pillar fine as a second, but leading it would be bold as the next piece of pro is quite run out from the nuts at the groove at start of pillar. Led p2 & 3 together which is fine as long as you extend your pro adequately. Several plum holds were lose!

with Paul Wolf
Tom Brierley Gore 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Kirill 08/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Bailed after P1 because it began to rain.

Hidden ??/2014 -
AidanMorris ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/13 2nd RP
Fred_Richard 16/Aug/13 Lead

All Pitches. P2 and P3 together. Fell off near the very top as my hand hold came off while using it. F(quite bold if you dont use the left corner). hard hit on some ledges first then tumble a little further. I carried on aiding myself on the easy corner on the left i don't know how, rolled over to safety then called for help as i was in lots of pains and could not move to set up the belay. Ambulance took me to A nd E. nothing broken and was discharged at 3am luckily, only bruising, muscles and soft tissue injury i presume but hell it hurts today! Nice route mindu, might be a tad harder now without that hand hold at the end, sorry...Thank you bpmclimb (bill?) and Clare for helping me at the top

with andymccoy
Ollie B 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S

All pitches. Linked 2 and 3 with a big sling on the belay pegs to reduce drag. Stiff for 5a on all pitches. 5b for 1st and 2nd.

with H.Watchorn
puppythedog 07/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Leigh P1, me P2 and P3 although we paused between the 2nd and 3rd. Very impressed with Leigh's lead on P1. I felt that the move below the last overhang was harder than 5a but I'm not in much shape to judge and particularly after pulling a massive block off of the face after the first peg before the first roof. This scared me and affected my climbing for the rest of the climb. I could have given up climbing at first :-) If Leigh had pulled the same block off whilst he led I might have been seriously hurt or worse - chilling.

with leigh
leigh 07/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

I lead first pitch which was long and awesome. James suffered a big rock fall while seconding - we were both very lucky! James lead 2nd and 3rd pitches. There were some tough moves.

with James
ianto ??/2013 -
alastairbegley ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Lead p1, great route!

with Chris Begley, Julia Begley
Murilo Lessa 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S

with Chris Bull

with Chris Bull
Hidden 04/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
MikeLell 19/Aug/12 Lead β

First E1 lead!

with Ernest
Hidden 19/Aug/12 AltLd dnf
MikeLell 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Nice Route, never too difficult anywhere. First bit of E1 leading, although this was an easy section.

with Dave
Tom Brierley Gore 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Nick Eaton
Hidden 19/Jul/12 AltLd
Aaron Lines 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
will_benfold 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P3 (ran them together). P2 good fun. Was a bit too far right for the final wall of P3, felt quite desperate!

with Caroline Culwick
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Scotsken 27/May/12 Lead

Briefly weighted the peg on the second pitch...

AlexRenshaw 13/May/12 AltLd
with Ted Lister
Hidden 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hooo 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Scared Chris on P1 when he asked me to take and fell a lot further than he expected - my stance collapsed and rolled down the slope. Led P2. Nice, straightforward and well protected. Planned to do P3 as well, but could barely pull the rope at the base of the wall, so went back to the pegs and belayed from there.

Chris Sieradzki 11/Mar/12 AltLd

Messed up at the first overhang, instead of going to the left i tried to go directly through the overhang. Pulled on jug and than spoted peg on the left and realized i was out of the route. Asked partner to take and gained Big Fly. Continued clean to the top.

with Hooo
timtimpeggy ??/2012 -
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead dog
thomasadixon 28/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with helen
s.c.white 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with mike thomas, Tim Ashlin
Hidden 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S
frank ramsay 21/Aug/11 AltLd
localboy 16/Aug/11 2nd dog

Nearly fell on 1st when hold broke. Did fall on second. Was dark on third.

bpmclimb 02/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Beefy route, quite taxing in the heat. Falling off the final little pitch would be a really bad idea.

with Clare
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead dog
crossdressingrodney 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led the second and third pitches in one. Fairly sustained yet straight-forward crack climbing on pitch 2. Pitch three made trickier by running pitches together.

Fred_Richard 28/Jun/11 Lead

Did long p1 and very short p3, Nathan p2. nice route, my first multipitch E1. Soft touch apparently. some loose looking blocks and flakes.

with Nathan
Hidden ??/2011 -
darren hudson 14/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch. 5a. Sustained physical. 3rd not really a pitch, if leading 2nd pitch don't clip pegs at belay and pitch it out. BEWARE, lots of loose holds and some will undoubtable fall/break soon, especially on 1st pitch

with David Ford
Sam W 23/May/10 Lead

Bit dirty, lead all 3 pitches. Possibly did P3 a bit wrong, placed gear in corner, then climbed wall to right

tobydunford 03/May/10 AltLd O/S
with James
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
poey50 29/Aug/09 Lead β

Completed the climb today

with Rowan15
poey50 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Abbed off after first pitch with two hurt left shoulders and one bad tum between us. But still worth doing. A bit bold up to the second peg - unless I missed something.

with Rowan15
JimR 02/Aug/09 -
3 Names 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

abbed from top of second pitch due to downpour

Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Misha 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Tom led P1, I did P2 and P3 in one push - rope drag wasn't a problem. Final headwall a bit scary - solid micro low down but would probably hit the large ledge if you come off the last few moves.

Hidden 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 31/May/09 Lead O/S

Lead P1, seconded P 2+3. lovely.

with Eric Herring
tom.e 25/May/09 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch

with Andy Tobin
mike lawrence? 23/May/09 AltLd O/S

lead first and third

with Giles
gdb4060 23/May/09 Lead

2nd pitch

with Mike
simonf 12/May/09 AltLd rpt
with Simon
Hidden 22/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
TimPerkin 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Gale
Hidden 26/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 26/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd & 3rd pitches o/s in one. Love this route!

with Will
bpmclimb 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Led all three pitches

with Roger
thomasadixon 18/May/08 Lead O/S

First pitch only as it was getting late, possibly the best pitch I've ever climbed. Will be back again!

Bristoldave 31/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Led P1&3

with Joe
maybe_si 27/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with jamie
Circus 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden ??/2007 -
simonf ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/06 Lead RP
beardy mike ??/2006 -
with Rob Scheicl
markfromstoke ??/2006 -
chris wyatt 31/Oct/05 AltLd O/S

Oli got the plum first pitch and lead it superbly

with bux
Bux ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch

with Chris Wyatt
Stefan Kruger 19/Jul/05 Lead O/S

A great route of three contrasting pitches. A word of caution: a TV-sized block is hanging loose at the belay at the end of the second pitch. Seriously loose. The fall line is straight down the pitch so climbers beware. This ought to be removed before someone is hurt. Further, several pegs mentioned in the guide are missing.

with Sarah Porter
Urgles ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Pete Debbage
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/03 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/02 AltLd
bullybones ??/2002 -
Nigel Coe 20/Jun/01 AltLd
with Tony Bird
simon kimber ??/2001 AltLd O/S
with Paddy Wilson
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2000 -

Like a bigger, beefier Pembroke route.

Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
GAtkins 01/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Linus
RichardMc 31/May/92 AltLd
with Zbysek Lustyk
mikej 23/May/92 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
RichardMc 02/Jun/91 Lead
with Angel Vila
mikej 26/May/91 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Hidden 29/Aug/88 AltLd
Guy ??/1987 Lead O/S
leland stamper ?/Apr/85 AltLd

Combined P1 and 2

with Pete Johnson?
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High E2
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Votes cast 35
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Votes cast 35
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
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