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Big Fly Direct*** E1 5a

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[Chris Horrobin on Big Fly Direct, 3 kb]The first pitch is a BIG lead, very sustained but never too difficult with a variety of styles required. Second pitch gives good honest jamming/laybacking up the corner to a none too inspiring stance and belay - better to carry on to the top.

Ticklists: Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Chris Horrobin on Big Fly Direct © www.climbpembroke.com
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 90 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Bailed after P1 because it began to rain.
Kirill - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/14 with Charles Moreton

AidanMorris - AltLd O/S - Sep/13 with Rob Goodman

Tried leading P2 and backed off. Fred ran pitches 2,3 together and fell off 3 when a block detached. I finished up left hand corner.
AndyMcCoy - 2nd RP - 16/Aug/13 with Fred

All Pitches. P2 and P3 together. Fell off near the very top as my hand hold came off while using it. F(quite bold if you dont use the left corner). hard hit on some ledges first then tumble a little further. I carried on aiding myself on the easy corner on the left i don't know how, rolled over to safety then called for help as i was in lots of pains and could not move to set up the belay. Ambulance took me to A nd E. nothing broken and was discharged at 3am luckily, only bruising, muscles and soft tissue injury i presume but hell it hurts today! Nice route mindu, might be a tad harder now without that hand hold at the end, sorry...Thank you bpmclimb (bill?) and Clare for helping me at the top
Fred_Richard - Lead - 16/Aug/13 with andymccoy

All pitches. Linked 2 and 3 with a big sling on the belay pegs to reduce drag. Stiff for 5a on all pitches. 5b for 1st and 2nd.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13 with H.Watchorn

Leigh P1, me P2 and P3 although we paused between the 2nd and 3rd. Very impressed with Leigh's lead on P1. I felt that the move below the last overhang was harder than 5a but I'm not in much shape to judge and particularly after pulling a massive block off of the face after the first peg before the first roof. This scared me and affected my climbing for the rest of the climb. I could have given up climbing at first :-) If Leigh had pulled the same block off whilst he led I might have been seriously hurt or worse - chilling.
puppythedog - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/13 with leigh

I lead first pitch which was long and awesome. James suffered a big rock fall while seconding - we were both very lucky! James lead 2nd and 3rd pitches. There were some tough moves.
leigh - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/13 with James

ianto - 2013

Lead p1, great route!
alastairbegley - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Chris Begley, Julia Begley

with Chris Bull
Murilo Lessa - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Chris Bull

managed at last - even though I pulled off a large block
evhall - AltLd rpt - 04/Sep/12 with Tim Bray

First E1 lead!
MikeLell - Lead β - 19/Aug/12 with Ernest

did P3 ran out of steam on P1
evhall - AltLd dnf - 19/Aug/12 with goat, Tim Bray

Led P2. Nice Route, never too difficult anywhere. First bit of E1 leading, although this was an easy section.
MikeLell - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Dave

Tom Brierley Gore - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Nick Eaton

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jul/12

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with frank ramsay

Led P2 and P3 (ran them together). P2 good fun. Was a bit too far right for the final wall of P3, felt quite desperate!
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Caroline Culwick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12

Briefly weighted the peg on the second pitch...
Scotsken - Lead - 27/May/12

AlexRenshaw - AltLd - 13/May/12 with Ted Lister

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12

Scared Chris on P1 when he asked me to take and fell a lot further than he expected - my stance collapsed and rolled down the slope. Led P2. Nice, straightforward and well protected. Planned to do P3 as well, but could barely pull the rope at the base of the wall, so went back to the pegs and belayed from there.
Hooo - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Chris Sieradzki

Messed up at the first overhang, instead of going to the left i tried to go directly through the overhang. Pulled on jug and than spoted peg on the left and realized i was out of the route. Asked partner to take and gained Big Fly. Continued clean to the top.
Chris Sieradzki - AltLd - 11/Mar/12 with Hooo

timtimpeggy - 2012

Gutted. I'd been saving this one up for a while. Cocked up the sequence at the first overhang by not realising quite where i should be going & took an impressive whipper onto a small cam which thankfully held. Climbed back up and did the correct route easily. One to return to.
hms - Lead dog - 28/Sep/11 with Tom

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 28/Sep/11 with helen

s.c.white - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with mike thomas, Tim Ashlin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/11

frank ramsay - AltLd - 21/Aug/11 with Nick Gregory

Nearly fell on 1st when hold broke. Did fall on second. Was dark on third.
localboy - 2nd dog - 16/Aug/11 with Simon C, Simon F

Beefy route, quite taxing in the heat. Falling off the final little pitch would be a really bad idea.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/11 with Clare

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Jun/11

Led the second and third pitches in one. Fairly sustained yet straight-forward crack climbing on pitch 2. Pitch three made trickier by running pitches together.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with alex malins

Did long p1 and very short p3, Nathan p2. nice route, my first multipitch E1. Soft touch apparently. some loose looking blocks and flakes.
Fred_Richard - Lead - 28/Jun/11 with Nathan

Hidden - 2011

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch. 5a. Sustained physical. 3rd not really a pitch, if leading 2nd pitch don't clip pegs at belay and pitch it out. BEWARE, lots of loose holds and some will undoubtable fall/break soon, especially on 1st pitch
darren hudson - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/10 with David Ford

Bit dirty, lead all 3 pitches. Possibly did P3 a bit wrong, placed gear in corner, then climbed wall to right
Sam W - Lead - 23/May/10 with Dave Frost

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 03/May/10 with James

Phil PBC - 2010

Completed the climb today
poey50 - Lead β - 29/Aug/09 with Rowan15

Abbed off after first pitch with two hurt left shoulders and one bad tum between us. But still worth doing. A bit bold up to the second peg - unless I missed something.
poey50 - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Rowan15

JimR - 02/Aug/09

abbed from top of second pitch due to downpour
3 Names - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/09

Tom led P1, I did P2 and P3 in one push - rope drag wasn't a problem. Final headwall a bit scary - solid micro low down but would probably hit the large ledge if you come off the last few moves.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09

Lead P1, seconded P 2+3. lovely.
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Eric Herring

Led the first pitch
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 25/May/09 with Andy Tobin

lead first and third
mike lawrence? - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09 with Giles

2nd pitch
gdb4060 - Lead - 23/May/09 with Mike

simonf - AltLd rpt - 12/May/09 with Simon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09

TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Dave Gale

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08

Led 2nd & 3rd pitches o/s in one. Love this route!
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08 with Will

Led all three pitches
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08 with Roger

First pitch only as it was getting late, possibly the best pitch I've ever climbed. Will be back again!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Toby Kluth

Led P1&3
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/08 with Joe

maybe_si - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/07 with jamie

Circus - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/07 with Lou

Hidden - 2007

simonf - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - Lead RP - 03/Apr/06

mike kann - 2006 with Rob Scheicl

markfromstoke - 2006

Oli got the plum first pitch and lead it superbly
chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/05 with bux

Led 1st pitch
Bux - AltLd O/S - Oct/05 with Chris Wyatt

A great route of three contrasting pitches. A word of caution: a TV-sized block is hanging loose at the belay at the end of the second pitch. Seriously loose. The fall line is straight down the pitch so climbers beware. This ought to be removed before someone is hurt. Further, several pegs mentioned in the guide are missing.
Stefan Kruger - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/05 with Sarah Porter

The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Pete Debbage

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/02

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/02

bullybones - 2002

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 20/Jun/01 with Tony Bird

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 2001 with Paddy Wilson

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

alan moore - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Hidden - Lead - 1997

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/92 with Linus

RichardMc - AltLd - 31/May/92 with Zbysek Lustyk

mikej - AltLd - 23/May/92 with Nick Salmon

RichardMc - Lead - 02/Jun/91 with Angel Vila

mikej - AltLd - 26/May/91 with Mike Byles

ChrisJD - AltLd - 29/Aug/88

Guy - Lead O/S - 1987

Combined P1 and 2
leland stamper - AltLd - Apr/85 with Pete Johnson?

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Roget, Hidden, reffle, Owen W-G, Matt250, Hidden, Chris Sansum, Dave89, andy dunn, iforwms, Hidden, ron244, saz_b, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Dax, Caspar, scorpia97, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 79
hard E20 of 27
E20 of 27
easy E20 of 27
hard E10 of 27
E122 of 27
easy E14 of 27
hard HVS1 of 27
HVS0 of 27
easy HVS0 of 27
hard 5b0 of 26
5b1 of 26
easy 5b3 of 26
hard 5a16 of 26
5a5 of 26
easy 5a1 of 26
hard 4c0 of 26
4c0 of 26
easy 4c0 of 26
3 Stars20 of 26
2 Stars6 of 26
1 Star0 of 26
0 Stars0 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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Style of ascent

Lead32 of 90 (35.6%)
Followed6 of 90 (6.7%)
Alt Leads42 of 90 (46.7%)
Unknown10 of 90 (11.1%)

'Climbed'30 of 90 (33.3%)
clean O/S47 of 90 (52.2%)
clean β2 of 90 (2.2%)
clean rpt4 of 90 (4.4%)
clean RP2 of 90 (2.2%)
dogged3 of 90 (3.3%)
dnf2 of 90 (2.2%)