Rockfax Description
34m. A great classic. It can be done in two pitches. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and right to the rib and climb this past awkward moves to reach the base of the wider upper crack system. Climb this - tricky at the overhang - and finish up a short wall at the back of the final ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic County, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK..

sarah hawker 30/Aug Lead rpt
with bob
AlbieWat 16/Aug Lead β
with Mark Riley
Col Kingshott 10/Aug Lead O/S
cpforbes 08/Aug Lead O/S
petegunn 05/Aug Lead
with Stu Steel, Davina
kdblondie 03/Aug 2nd
with John Armstrong
Palmer 25/Jul Lead O/S

The decision to climb with our bags to save walking back for them was maybe poor choice. that Chimney is a nighmare with a bag on.

with Sarah
Georgie25 05/Jul 2nd
Hidden 29/Jun Lead
Climbster 07/Jun Lead O/S
with Vick
Vixie 07/Jun 2nd β

Had to have a take to get gear out

with Matt
Adamski1986 03/Jun Lead

There is Currently a Nesting bird at half height and further up, climbed to the left to avoid disturbing birds.

Tim Rodgers 03/Jun 2nd
Alpenglow 30/May 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/May 2nd
odox 30/May Lead
oli2wd 27/May 2nd

with JW - really nice climb, blocky, good gear! Birds nesting!

Hidden 23/May 2nd O/S
SomeClimbingGuy 22/May Lead O/S

Can't understand how this is a 3 star route, I thought it was a Bag of ....

Kizzy ?/May -
smithjmw46 20/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr 2nd O/S
jonnybmac 22/Mar Lead
jonnybmac 22/Mar Lead
Russell Lovett ??/2015 Solo O/S

Not sure of date first climbed. Have soloed it loads of times since.

with alone
Sciguy 12/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with John Wilson
MikeLell 14/Sep/14 -
with avi
Avinash Aujayeb 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Mike Elliot
dakidunn 20/Aug/14 Lead

Great lead, chimney at the top was interesting for an ample gentleman like myself. Breathe in....And to make the climb even better, there was an osprey diving into the lough as well.

with Tris
Topsy Turvy 20/Aug/14 2nd

Done before. Chimney at the top doesn't get any bigger.

Sciguy 19/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Loose rocks but Great route, got eaten by the chimney at the top, only problem dropping kit!

with tris
ian d f 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Slab start was trick in approach shoes. Cool chimney to finish.

with Michael, Ian
pearson9596 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
williap ?/Aug/14 -
jonnysims 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Matt Bello
y2keable 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Tremendous route! Loved the moves and some great exposure. The rock was dry, clean and grippy. Climbed left around the chimney because I didn't want to spoil what had so far been a beautiful climb. I hate chimneys.

with Mike, John
mike25350 23/Jul/14 TR O/S
DanChad 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 21/Jul/14 Lead

A classic at the grade and one of the best climbs I've done in ages. Enjoyed every move.

Gabe Oliver 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Tom McCabe 11/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Andrei Markin
Hidden 11/Jun/14 TR O/S
Peter Holder 30/May/14 Solo
Jack Hirst 30/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jack Tomlinson
rgd1977 19/May/14 Lead O/S
IanHope 17/May/14 Lead O/S
chris smith 06/May/14 Lead O/S
with Malcolm watson
peterhubbard 30/Oct/13 2nd
with Conrad
Tom McCabe 26/Oct/13 TR O/S
Alpenglow 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Top squeeze chimney was the very definition of 'thrutch'. Also a relatively difficult move lower down on the face.

with Ben M
Andy Moles 14/Aug/13 Solo O/S
with -
ferdia 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
wnlwy 20/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd
Andysomething 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Went left at top ran out of gear - great route

with Bruce Perry
peter.ravenscroft27 30/Jun/13 2nd

long and super fun. birds 3/4 of the way up.

Gatley 30/Jun/13 Lead
Jamie Brown 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great route. Not too hard anywhere, loads of gear and the chimney wasn't half as bad as I was expecting.

with Simon Caldwell, Carmen Elphick
Simon Caldwell 29/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd rpt
colin milton 27/Jun/13 Lead
with shaun l
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
MikeLell 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Bron 06/May/13 2nd
with Dave
BenBrotherton ??/2013 Lead O/S

Plan was to break the route into two due to a smallish rack. However when I reached the stance my partner decided he didn't fancy it! I had to get creative with placements for the upper pitch :) Great climb, well worth doing!

with Martin Miller
Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Matt Poole 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Simon Caldwell 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt

Top route - surprising amount of grass and ferns given its classic status. The final chimney is quite easy if you stay outside, but would be bold that way on lead.

with Carmen
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Gareth-Evans 10/Aug/12 2nd dog
Boxy 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/12 AltLd
Ste Ridd 30/Jun/12 AltLd
Adrianw 20/Jun/12 2nd
sarah hawker 20/Jun/12 Lead dog

Hadn't really twigged I had to climb the chimney... turned into a bit of an epic with tears as I spent rather too long dangling from a chockstone. Adrian made it look depressingly easy.

Richard Alderton 18/Jun/12 Lead

Some suspect rock. The chimney is fun.

with Al
Hidden 07/Jun/12 Lead O/S
keithlambley 28/May/12 Lead
with Ken M, Pete H
kyaizawa 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Pleasant climbing up to the top chimney... novel constricted layback moves worked well, although not a climb for the larger built. Also, minimized bulky gear and ditch spare shoes, bags, etc.

with Margot Houwers
lcullum7 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ben Barnard
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd O/S
ed.burton 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Henry Häkkinen
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd O/S
JonG ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
Dervey ??/2012 -
samoliver01 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
TomAnderson11 18/Aug/11 TR O/S
steven703 10/Aug/11 -
KevB 03/Aug/11 Lead
with Tony P
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Solo O/S
markfairbank 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Sandra Lee, Ray Sharples
pebbles 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

I thought this quite enjoyable, the others didnt

with guido, ewan
Liam Martin 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S

A good route, well worth doing. Bottom half was the best and the awkward chimney was a little sting in the tail.

with David Cowley
David Cowley 12/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
petegunn 01/Jul/11 Lead
with Davina
ablackett 01/Jun/11 Lead dog

Very top hold snapped off the last 2m high wall to the very top, sent me bouncing about 6-7m back down the crag - ouch. Nothing else loose on the route, so don't be put off, cracking good climbing - the top chimney is a bit tight.

with Andy Wallace
jshields 21/May/11 Lead
davewsargent 20/May/11 Lead
kitP 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Awesome route, brilliant exposure (if you're not leading)

with Andy
Andy DB 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with chris
andybroadway 16/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Schurch
Hidden 25/Aug/10 AltLd
mikecollins 21/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with stg
andy mcc 21/Aug/10 Lead
with Arifa Chakera
barney800 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

A bit loose and mucky in places but excellent nonetheless. Bags of variety.

with Katherine Shaw
Hidden 31/Jul/10 -
Hidden 07/Jul/10 Lead O/S
jimstanton 30/Jun/10 Lead
with Ailsa
David Bulley 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch, thrutchy climbing in the chimney

stouffer 05/Jun/10 Lead
seanmalone 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with justin hughes, owen barnicott
barni 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Agua-Moose 24/May/10 Lead O/S

Great route. Loved the length (34m) but bottled the chimney and went round to the left. Anchor points at the top wern't so plentyful! Will be back to have another go later in the year.

with Rock Climbing Stew
Simnel 23/May/10 2nd

Warning the large loose blocks at the bottom of the climb as you traverse over are now very loose ie about to drop off..

brayg01 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Scary climb. I was running out or quick draws after half way! This wasn’t my hardest grade I’ve lead but it defiantly is my hardest and best climb to date! I got a real buzz from this lead!

Skinny Kin 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lucian Peterca
Falko 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Exciting climb - more like mountaineering than crag climbing - complete with loose blocks and doubtful flakes but nonetheless worthy of three stars. Climbed with Matthew who had spent much of the previous week on a Geography field course beneath the crag and in driech conditions. In contrast Saturday was a delightful day and, as one of the 'locals' said, was the 'Crag Lough season'. Huge trout in the water below.

with Matthew Rech
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
clairepoppett 24/Apr/10 2nd
with James R
buddha1369 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
alan1234 ??/2010 Lead O/S
stuaart 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

For some reason I found the chimney at the top quite an enjoyable squeeze.

with Laura Wright
Hidden 01/Oct/09 2nd O/S
WendyT 22/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with James Marsh
NaomiHart 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Richy Reed/Tom NcNally
PeteH 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
NaomiHart 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/09 2nd β
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/09 2nd O/S
odox 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Another brilliant gem in Lough. Just keeps on giving. Climbed on the aręte of the chimney rather than udging inside. Thin moves but nice all the same :)

Rog Wilko 23/Jun/09 Lead

Excellent route, well worth its stars. Just a shame about the grovel up the final chimney!

with Debbie Wilkinson
David Cowley 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Stew Cowley
mikecollins 25/May/09 Lead O/S
with stg
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
arctic_jen 25/Apr/09 2nd
with Dan
andyhutch77 07/Mar/09 Lead

Excellent climb, a true classic. I will def' repeat it.

with Marc Tomlinson
j0shwyatt000 ??/2009 2nd O/S
Simnel ??/2009 2nd
with Mads
Phill_ Thompson ??/2009 Lead
7om ?/Sep/08 2nd β
with Chris Morish
Rich Thornton ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Sam Davison-Webb, James Harland
Hidden 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Daniel Sutherland 23/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with Chris
stimpey 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Tom
Timpy1584 23/Aug/08 2nd
with Steve
1918hasti 11/Aug/08 Lead
with Paul Bradwell
Daniel Sutherland 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Lindsay
Lindsay Sutherland 02/Aug/08 TR O/S
with Daniel Sutherland
Fabian001 13/Jul/08 2nd

Flew up this one, but time was pressing so didn't quite finish it. I think I may need to loose a bit of weight around my arse to complete this one as there's an unpleasant tight chimney at the top

with Adam Thorpe
victim of mathematics 04/Jul/08 Lead O/S

A great route that goes on and on. Unfortunately it has 2 distinct cruxes and the rest is considerably easier, but it's definitely a three star route all the same.

Cornish Merlin 04/Jul/08 2nd
andrew sandercock 01/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with jon armstrong
jonny taylor 07/Jun/08 2nd
with Paul
pwrenwick 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
jonka ?/Feb/08 2nd
with degs
shouter ??/2008 Lead
Claire S-J ?/Nov/07 2nd
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
NickST ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S


with Greg Grace
camjberry ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Alex Nevard
tomcorley55 07/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Mark Duggan
Mark D 07/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Adam1973 10/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Flicka
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Lead O/S
andyandy 06/Jun/07 Lead
with Heather
Dane 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Lower bit was awesome, the chimney less so (read: it was pretty cr@p)

with John
Matt Tranter ??/2007 -
telemark ??/2007 Lead
geordiekev ??/2007 2nd
lump'o'lead ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
snowcat 26/Jul/06 2nd

Ably led by Phil in the setting sun when it was nearly pub o'clock. He now says he is retiring from leading! The trick with this is to look for the crack at the back of the chimney - as found by Steve - cos otherwise flailing around on the outside or jamming yourself inside the chimney it ends up being more like HVS

with Phil Steadman
Hidden 24/Jul/06 Lead
Sam Judson 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S

A wonderfully varied route, and long, at 34m.

with Caroline Judson
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Colin Matheson 10/Jun/06 2nd

My birthday climbs

with Charlie Fisher
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 06/May/06 2nd
Sankey ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Superb, has it all, technical moves between cracks low down, and a great squeeze chimney top out.

with Luke
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 24/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Bailey
Hidden ?/Aug/05 -
Hidden 22/Jun/05 Lead O/S
snowy owl 30/Aug/04 Lead
with Neil Rutherford
Hidden 28/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/04 -
GPN ?/Jun/04 2nd
Urgles ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Fiend
Hidden 21/Jul/02 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Martin Bohl
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
stuart100 ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
steve prior ?/Aug/98 Lead
with Roz C
stewart murray ??/1995 2nd
with Pete Middleton
biggianthead 08/May/94 -
with HT
Simon Caldwell ??/1992 Lead O/S

Year is approximate. All I can remember is (a) faffing for ages summoning up the courage to leave the spike, and (b) looking down from near the top to see every piece of gear I'd placed was sliding down the rope, and saying "oh w**k" :-)

with Martin
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 04/Dec/83 Lead O/S

classic, also 12/7/89 and 23/6/95

Gary Coggon 12/Sep/82 Lead O/S
with Bog
cornishmackem ?/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Tim Cogdon
andybirtwistle ??/1982 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1980 -
Mike C 24/Sep/79 Lead
with Kevin Howett
babymoac 26/Jul/79 -
beaumap ??/1977 Lead
with Peter Camp
Dave Musgrove 24/Mar/73 AltLd
with Mike Butler, Jim Worthington
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1973 -
granitbahn ??/1970 AltLd
RichardMc 22/Oct/67 2nd
with Ian Stromberg, Ann Davison
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
J D Bird, westleas, Hidden, peterhubbard, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Richard Alderton, Hidden, alexanderpatton, topsafari, beegsyboy
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 43
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set