Northumberland > Crag Lough >
 
Main Wall*** HS

Adjacent Climbs
<< God Lives Under Water
 
Main Wall Route Two >>
[Unknown climber negotiating tricky moves on Main Wall, Crag Lough, 3 kb]A great classic. It can be done in two pitches. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and right to the rib and climb this past awkward moves to reach the base of the wider upper crack system. Climb this - tricky at the overhang - and finish up a short wall at the back of the final ledge. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic County, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK..

Photo: Unknown climber negotiating tricky moves on Main Wall, Crag Lough © Falko
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 179 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Great lead, chimney at the top was interesting for an ample gentleman like myself. Breathe in....And to make the climb even better, there was an osprey diving into the lough as well.
dakidunn - Lead - 20/Aug/14 with Tris Brown

Loose rocks but Great route, got eaten by the chimney at the top, only problem dropping kit!
Sciguy - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/14 with tris

ian d f - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with David Brock, Michael P

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/14

jonnysims - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Matt Bello

Tremendous route! Loved the moves and some great exposure. The rock was dry, clean and grippy. Climbed left around the chimney because I didn't want to spoil what had so far been a beautiful climb. I hate chimneys.
y2keable - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Mike, John

DanChad - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Chris Murray

A classic at the grade and one of the best climbs I've done in ages. Enjoyed every move.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 21/Jul/14 with Dan Chadfield

Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14

Tom McCabe - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/14 with Andrei Markin

Hidden - TR O/S - 11/Jun/14

Peter Holder - Solo - 30/May/14

rgd1977 - Lead O/S - 19/May/14

IanHope - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with KatyHope

chris smith - Lead O/S - 06/May/14 with Malcolm watson

peterhubbard - 2nd - 30/Oct/13 with Conrad

Tom McCabe - TR O/S - 26/Oct/13

Top squeeze chimney was the very definition of 'thrutch'. Also a relatively difficult move lower down on the face.
blackreaver - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Ben M

Andy Moles - Solo O/S - 14/Aug/13 with -

ferdia - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13

Went left at top ran out of gear - great route
Andysomething - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Bruce Perry

long and super fun. birds 3/4 of the way up.
peter.ravenscroft27 - 2nd - 30/Jun/13 with Matt Gatley

Gatley - Lead - 30/Jun/13

Great route. Not too hard anywhere, loads of gear and the chimney wasn't half as bad as I was expecting.
Jamie Brown - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Simon Caldwell, Carmen Elphick

Simon Caldwell - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/13 with Jamie, Carmen

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/13

colin milton - Lead - 27/Jun/13 with shaun l

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/13

MikeLell - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/13 with Tom

Bron - 2nd - 06/May/13 with Dave

Plan was to break the route into two due to a smallish rack. However when I reached the stance my partner decided he didn't fancy it! I had to get creative with placements for the upper pitch :) Great climb, well worth doing!
BenBrotherton - Lead O/S - 2013 with Martin Miller

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Matt Poole - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Scottmeister

Top route - surprising amount of grass and ferns given its classic status. The final chimney is quite easy if you stay outside, but would be bold that way on lead.
Simon Caldwell - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Carmen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

Gareth-Evans - 2nd dog - 10/Aug/12 with samoliver01

Boxy - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/12 with Tim

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jun/12

moose ridd - AltLd - 30/Jun/12 with M.Sadler

Adrianw - 2nd - 20/Jun/12 with Sarah Hawker

Hadn't really twigged I had to climb the chimney... turned into a bit of an epic with tears as I spent rather too long dangling from a chockstone. Adrian made it look depressingly easy.
sarah hawker - Lead dog - 20/Jun/12 with Adrian W

Some suspect rock. The chimney is fun.
Richard Alderton - Lead - 18/Jun/12 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/12

keithlambley - Lead - 28/May/12 with Ken M, Pete H

Pleasant climbing up to the top chimney... novel constricted layback moves worked well, although not a climb for the larger built. Also, minimized bulky gear and ditch spare shoes, bags, etc.
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Margot Houwers

lcullum7 - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Ben Barnard

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

ed.burton - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Henry Häkkinen

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

JonG - 2012

cballard - 2012

Dervey - 2012

samoliver01 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11

TomAnderson11 - TR O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Kayleigh Thompson

KevB - Lead - 03/Aug/11 with Tony P

Hidden - Solo O/S - 30/Jul/11

markfairbank - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with Sandra Lee, Ray Sharples

I thought this quite enjoyable, the others didnt
pebbles - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with guido, ewan

A good route, well worth doing. Bottom half was the best and the awkward chimney was a little sting in the tail.
Liam Martin - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with David Cowley

David Cowley - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Liam Martin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/11

petegunn - Lead - 01/Jul/11 with Davina

Very top hold snapped off the last 2m high wall to the very top, sent me bouncing about 6-7m back down the crag - ouch. Nothing else loose on the route, so don't be put off, cracking good climbing - the top chimney is a bit tight.
ablackett - Lead dog - 01/Jun/11 with Andy Wallace

jshields - Lead - 21/May/11 with Ed James

davewsargent - Lead - 20/May/11

Awesome route, brilliant exposure (if you're not leading)
kitP - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Andy

Andy DB - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with chris

andybroadway - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/10 with Matt Schurch

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Aug/10

mikecollins - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/10 with stg

andy mcc - Lead - 21/Aug/10 with Arifa Chakera

A bit loose and mucky in places but excellent nonetheless. Bags of variety.
barney800 - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Katherine Shaw

Hidden - 31/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/10

jimstanton - Lead - 30/Jun/10 with Ailsa

Lead 2nd pitch, thrutchy climbing in the chimney
David Bulley - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Andy Chisholm

stouffer - Lead - 05/Jun/10

seanmalone - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with justin hughes, owen barnicott

barni - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Justin Hughes, seanmalone

Great route. Loved the length (34m) but bottled the chimney and went round to the left. Anchor points at the top wern't so plentyful! Will be back to have another go later in the year.
Agua-Moose - Lead O/S - 24/May/10 with Rock Climbing Stew

Warning the large loose blocks at the bottom of the climb as you traverse over are now very loose ie about to drop off..
Simnel - 2nd - 23/May/10 with Graham Bray

Scary climb. I was running out or quick draws after half way! This wasnít my hardest grade Iíve lead but it defiantly is my hardest and best climb to date! I got a real buzz from this lead!
brayg01 - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with John Lambert

Skinny Kin - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Lucian Peterca

Exciting climb - more like mountaineering than crag climbing - complete with loose blocks and doubtful flakes but nonetheless worthy of three stars. Climbed with Matthew who had spent much of the previous week on a Geography field course beneath the crag and in driech conditions. In contrast Saturday was a delightful day and, as one of the 'locals' said, was the 'Crag Lough season'. Huge trout in the water below.
Falko - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Matthew Rech

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

clairepoppett - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with James R

buddha1369 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Christian B (OB)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10

alan1234 - Lead O/S - 2010

For some reason I found the chimney at the top quite an enjoyable squeeze.
stuaart - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Laura Wright

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/09

WendyT - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/09 with James Marsh

NaomiHart - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Richy Reed/Tom NcNally

PeteH - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Naomi Hart

NaomiHart - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Peter Hart

Hidden - 2nd β - 06/Aug/09

Tried to put second foot higher up into crack at lower crux, but fell back to ledge. Found correct route: right foot in crack, then move out to left. Top chimney was awkward.
johnjb - 2nd - 25/Jul/09 with Ray Sharples

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/09

Another brilliant gem in Lough. Just keeps on giving. Climbed on the arÍte of the chimney rather than udging inside. Thin moves but nice all the same :)
odox - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with Tom Pitchforth

Excellent route, well worth its stars. Just a shame about the grovel up the final chimney!
Rog Wilko - Lead - 23/Jun/09 with Debbie Wilkinson

David Cowley - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Stew Cowley

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with stg

dpmUK - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Jen

arctic_jen - 2nd - 25/Apr/09 with Dan

Excellent climb, a true classic. I will def' repeat it.
andyhutch77 - Lead - 07/Mar/09 with Marc Tomlinson

j0shwyatt000 - 2nd O/S - 2009

Simnel - 2nd - 2009 with Mads

7om - 2nd β - Sep/08 with Chris Morish

Rich Thornton - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Sam Davison-Webb, James Harland

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08

Daniel Sutherland - 2nd rpt - 23/Aug/08 with Chris

stimpey - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Tom

Timpy1584 - 2nd - 23/Aug/08 with Steve

Daniel Sutherland - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Lindsay

Lindsay Sutherland - TR O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Daniel Sutherland

Flew up this one, but time was pressing so didn't quite finish it. I think I may need to loose a bit of weight around my arse to complete this one as there's an unpleasant tight chimney at the top
Fabian001 - 2nd - 13/Jul/08 with Adam Thorpe

A great route that goes on and on. Unfortunately it has 2 distinct cruxes and the rest is considerably easier, but it's definitely a three star route all the same.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/08 with Cornish Merlin

Cornish Merlin - 2nd - 04/Jul/08 with Colin Angus

andrew sandercock - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/08 with jon armstrong

jonny taylor - 2nd - 07/Jun/08 with Paul

pwrenwick - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with jonny taylor

Hidden - Lead - May/08

jonka - 2nd - Feb/08 with degs

shouter - Lead - 2008

Claire S-J - 2nd - Nov/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/07

camjberry - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Alex Nevard

tomcorley55 - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Mark Duggan

Mark D - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Tom Corley

Adam1973 - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/07 with Flicka

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/07

andyandy - Lead - 06/Jun/07 with Heather

Lower bit was awesome, the chimney less so (read: it was pretty cr@p)
Dane - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with John

Matt Tranter - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

geordiekev - 2nd - 2007

lump'o'lead - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/06

Ably led by Phil in the setting sun when it was nearly pub o'clock. He now says he is retiring from leading! The trick with this is to look for the crack at the back of the chimney - as found by Steve - cos otherwise flailing around on the outside or jamming yourself inside the chimney it ends up being more like HVS
snowcat - 2nd - 26/Jul/06 with Phil Steadman

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/06

A wonderfully varied route, and long, at 34m.
Sam Judson - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06 with Caroline Judson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/06

My birthday climbs
Colin Matheson - 2nd - 10/Jun/06 with Charlie Fisher

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/06

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/06

Superb, has it all, technical moves between cracks low down, and a great squeeze chimney top out.
Sankey - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/05

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/05 with Dan Bailey

Hidden - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/05

snowy owl - Lead - 30/Aug/04 with Neil Rutherford

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/04

Hidden - 16/Jun/04

GPN - 2nd - Jun/04 with Jamie Moss

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Sep/02 with Fiend

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/02

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Jul/02 with Martin Bohl

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/02

stuart100 - Lead O/S - Jun/00 with Claire Graham

steve prior - Lead - Aug/98

stewart murray - 2nd - 1995 with Pete Middleton

biggianthead - 08/May/94 with HT

Year is approximate. All I can remember is (a) faffing for ages summoning up the courage to leave the spike, and (b) looking down from near the top to see every piece of gear I'd placed was sliding down the rope, and saying "oh w**k" :-)
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 1992 with Martin

Jim Walton - Lead O/S - 1990

cornishmackem - Lead O/S - Jul/82 with Tim Cogdon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

THE
Gary Coggon - Lead O/S - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Mike C - Lead - 24/Sep/79 with Kevin Howett

babymoac - 26/Jul/79

beaumap - Lead - 1977 with Peter Camp

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 24/Mar/73 with Mike Butler, Jim Worthington

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 1973

granitbahn - AltLd - 1970

RichardMc - 2nd - 22/Oct/67 with Ian Stromberg, Ann Davison

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
peterhubbard, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Richard Alderton, Hidden, alexanderpatton, topsafari, beegsyboy

Voting
Total votes cast 80
hard VS0 of 40
VS0 of 40
easy VS0 of 40
hard HS8 of 40
HS30 of 40
easy HS1 of 40
hard S1 of 40
S0 of 40
easy S0 of 40
3 Stars36 of 40
2 Stars4 of 40
1 Star0 of 40
0 Stars0 of 40
Bag of .....0 of 40
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 179 (1.7%)
Lead100 of 179 (55.9%)
Followed54 of 179 (30.2%)
Toproped4 of 179 (2.2%)
Alt Leads6 of 179 (3.4%)
Unknown12 of 179 (6.7%)

'Climbed'67 of 179 (37.4%)
clean O/S103 of 179 (57.5%)
clean β2 of 179 (1.1%)
clean rpt4 of 179 (2.2%)
dogged3 of 179 (1.7%)