Northumberland > Crag Lough >
 
Main Wall*** HS

Adjacent Climbs
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Main Wall Route Two >>
[Ade, showing a textbook example of rope management!, 2 kb]A great classic. It can be done in two pitches. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and right to the rib and climb this past awkward moves to reach the base of the wider upper crack system. Climb this - tricky at the overhang - and finish up a short wall at the back of the final ledge. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic County, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK..

Photo: Ade, showing a textbook example of rope management! © Gareth C
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 142 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Bron - 2nd - 06/May/13 with Dave

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Matt Poole - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Scottmeister

Top route - surprising amount of grass and ferns given its classic status. The final chimney is quite easy if you stay outside, but would be bold on lead.
Toreador - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Carmen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

Gareth-Evans - 2nd dog - 10/Aug/12 with samoliver01

Boxy - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/12 with Tim

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jun/12

moose ridd - AltLd - 30/Jun/12 with M.Sadler

Adrianw - 2nd - 20/Jun/12 with Sarah Hawker

Hadn't really twigged I had to climb the chimney... turned into a bit of an epic with tears as I spent rather too long dangling from a chockstone. Adrian made it look depressingly easy.
sarah hawker - Lead dog - 20/Jun/12 with Adrian W

Some suspect rock. The chimney is fun.
Richard Alderton - Lead - 18/Jun/12 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/12

keithlambley - Lead - 28/May/12 with Ken M, Pete H

Pleasant climbing up to the top chimney... novel constricted layback moves worked well, although not a climb for the larger built. Also, minimized bulky gear and ditch spare shoes, bags, etc.
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Margot Houwers

lcullum7 - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Ben Barnard

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

ed.burton - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Henry Häkkinen

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

JonG - 2012

cballard - 2012

Dervey - 2012

samoliver01 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11

TomAnderson11 - TR O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Kayleigh Thompson

Hidden - Solo O/S - 30/Jul/11

markfairbank - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with Sandra Lee, Ray Sharples

I thought this quite enjoyable, the others didnt
pebbles - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with guido, ewan

A good route, well worth doing. Bottom half was the best and the awkward chimney was a little sting in the tail.
Liam Martin - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with David Cowley

David Cowley - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Liam Martin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/11

petegunn - Lead - 01/Jul/11 with Davina

Very top hold snapped off the last 2m high wall to the very top, sent me bouncing about 6-7m back down the crag - ouch. Nothing else loose on the route, so don't be put off, cracking good climbing - the top chimney is a bit tight.
ablackett - Lead dog - 01/Jun/11 with Andy Wallace

jshields - Lead - 21/May/11 with Ed James

davewsargent - Lead - 20/May/11

Awesome route, brilliant exposure (if you're not leading)
kitP - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Andy

Andy DB - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with chris

andybroadway - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/10 with Matt Schurch

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Aug/10

mikecollins - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/10 with stg

andy mcc - Lead - 21/Aug/10 with Arifa Chakera

A bit loose and mucky in places but excellent nonetheless. Bags of variety.
barney800 - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Katherine Shaw

Hidden - 31/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/10

jimstanton - Lead - 30/Jun/10 with Ailsa

Lead 2nd pitch, thrutchy climbing in the chimney
David Bulley - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Andy Chisholm

stouffer - Lead - 05/Jun/10

seanmalone - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with justin hughes, owen barnicott

barni - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Justin Hughes, seanmalone

Great route. Loved the length (34m) but bottled the chimney and went round to the left. Anchor points at the top wern't so plentyful! Will be back to have another go later in the year.
Agua-Moose - Lead O/S - 24/May/10 with Rock Climbing Stew

Warning the large loose blocks at the bottom of the climb as you traverse over are now very loose ie about to drop off..
Simnel - 2nd - 23/May/10 with Graham Bray

Scary climb. I was running out or quick draws after half way! This wasn’t my hardest grade I’ve lead but it defiantly is my hardest and best climb to date! I got a real buzz from this lead!
brayg01 - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with John Lambert

Skinny Kin - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Lucian Peterca

Exciting climb - more like mountaineering than crag climbing - complete with loose blocks and doubtful flakes but nonetheless worthy of three stars. Climbed with Matthew who had spent much of the previous week on a Geography field course beneath the crag and in driech conditions. In contrast Saturday was a delightful day and, as one of the 'locals' said, was the 'Crag Lough season'. Huge trout in the water below.
Falko - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Matthew Rech

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

clairepoppett - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with James R

buddha1369 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Christian B (OB)

alan1234 - Lead O/S - 2010

For some reason I found the chimney at the top quite an enjoyable squeeze.
stuaart - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Laura Wright

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/09

WendyT - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/09 with James Marsh

NaomiHart - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Richy Reed/Tom NcNally

PeteH - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Naomi Hart

NaomiHart - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Peter Hart

Hidden - 2nd β - 06/Aug/09

Tried to put second foot higher up into crack at lower crux, but fell back to ledge. Found correct route: right foot in crack, then move out to left. Top chimney was awkward.
johnjb - 2nd - 25/Jul/09 with Ray Sharples

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/09

Another brilliant gem in Lough. Just keeps on giving. Climbed on the arête of the chimney rather than udging inside. Thin moves but nice all the same :)
odox - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with Tom Pitchforth

Excellent route, well worth its stars. Just a shame about the grovel up the final chimney!
Rog Wilko - Lead - 23/Jun/09 with Debbie Wilkinson

David Cowley - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Stew Cowley

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with stg

dpmUK - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Jen

arctic_jen - 2nd - 25/Apr/09 with Dan

Excellent climb, a true classic. I will def' repeat it.
andyhutch77 - Lead - 07/Mar/09 with Marc Tomlinson

j0shwyatt000 - 2nd O/S - 2009

Simnel - 2nd - 2009 with Mads

7om - 2nd β - Sep/08 with Chris Morish

Rich Thornton - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Sam Davison-Webb, James Harland

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08

Daniel Sutherland - 2nd rpt - 23/Aug/08 with Chris

stimpey - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Tom

Timpy1584 - 2nd - 23/Aug/08 with Steve

Daniel Sutherland - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Lindsay

Lindsay Sutherland - TR O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Daniel Sutherland

Flew up this one, but time was pressing so didn't quite finish it. I think I may need to loose a bit of weight around my arse to complete this one as there's an unpleasant tight chimney at the top
Fabian001 - 2nd - 13/Jul/08 with Adam Thorpe

A great route that goes on and on. Unfortunately it has 2 distinct cruxes and the rest is considerably easier, but it's definitely a three star route all the same.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/08 with Cornish Merlin

Cornish Merlin - 2nd - 04/Jul/08 with Colin Angus

andrew sandercock - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/08 with jon armstrong

jonny taylor - 2nd - 07/Jun/08 with Paul

pwrenwick - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with jonny taylor

Hidden - Lead - May/08

jonka - 2nd - Feb/08 with degs

shouter - Lead - 2008

Claire S-J - 2nd - Nov/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/07

camjberry - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Alex Nevard

tomcorley55 - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Mark Duggan

Mark D - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Tom Corley

Adam1973 - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/07 with Flicka

Really chuffed with this--my first time on dolerite as far as I know and I onsighted my top lead grade first climb on it! Did not approve of the whole udge up the chimney bit at the end! Loved the techy bits once I worked out how to read that rock type.
Flicka - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/07 with Adam

andyandy - Lead - 06/Jun/07 with Heather

Lower bit was awesome, the chimney less so (read: it was pretty cr@p)
Dane - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with John

Matt Tranter - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

geordiekev - 2nd - 2007

lump'o'lead - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/06

Ably led by Phil in the setting sun when it was nearly pub o'clock. He now says he is retiring from leading! The trick with this is to look for the crack at the back of the chimney - as found by Steve - cos otherwise flailing around on the outside or jamming yourself inside the chimney it ends up being more like HVS
snowcat - 2nd - 26/Jul/06 with Phil Steadman

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/06

A wonderfully varied route, and long, at 34m.
Sam Judson - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06 with Caroline Judson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/06

My birthday climbs
Colin Matheson - 2nd - 10/Jun/06 with Charlie Fisher

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/06

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/06

Superb, has it all, technical moves between cracks low down, and a great squeeze chimney top out.
Sankey - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/05

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/05 with Dan Bailey

Hidden - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/05

snowy owl - Lead - 30/Aug/04 with Neil Rutherford

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/04

GPN - 2nd - Jun/04 with Jamie Moss

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Sep/02 with Fiend

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/02

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Jul/02 with Martin Bohl

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/02

stuart100 - Lead O/S - Jun/00 with Claire Graham

stewart murray - 2nd - 1995 with Pete Middleton

biggianthead - 08/May/94 with HT

Year is approximate. All I can remember is (a) faffing for ages summoning up the courage to leave the spike, and (b) looking down from near the top to see every piece of gear I'd placed was sliding down the rope, and saying "oh w**k" :-)
Toreador - Lead O/S - 1992 with Martin

Jim Walton - Lead O/S - 1990

cornishmackem - Lead O/S - Jul/82 with Tim Cogdon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

Mike C - Lead - 24/Sep/79 with Kevin Howett

babymoac - 26/Jul/79

beaumap - Lead - 1977 with Peter Camp

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 24/Mar/73 with Mike Butler, Jim Worthington

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 1973

granitbahn - AltLd - 1970

RichardMc - 2nd - 22/Oct/67 with Ian Stromberg, Ann Davison

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Richard Alderton, Hidden, alexanderpatton, topsafari, beegsyboy

Voting
Total votes cast 60
hard VS0 of 31
VS0 of 31
easy VS0 of 31
hard HS6 of 31
HS23 of 31
easy HS1 of 31
hard S1 of 31
S0 of 31
easy S0 of 31
3 Stars25 of 29
2 Stars4 of 29
1 Star0 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 142 (0.7%)
Lead79 of 142 (55.6%)
Followed44 of 142 (31.0%)
Toproped2 of 142 (1.4%)
Alt Leads6 of 142 (4.2%)
Unknown10 of 142 (7.0%)

'Climbed'56 of 142 (39.4%)
clean O/S79 of 142 (55.6%)
clean β2 of 142 (1.4%)
clean rpt2 of 142 (1.4%)
dogged3 of 142 (2.1%)