Squareface*** VD
[View from pitch 3 of Squareface., 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Classic Rock, Ultimate Scottish Rock, UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission.

Photo: View from pitch 3 of Squareface. © davidbeynon
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This climb is in 159 logbooks, and on 186 wishlists.

First pitch is rubbish but the next two are fantastic
jrccrosby - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/15 with Elsie

thermaldan - Lead - 09/Jul/15 with Lea

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - Lead - 14/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead - 10/Sep/14

Louvet - 2nd - 10/Sep/14 with Tarquin

Midged and an ode to David Coulthard.
Quallim - AltLd - 31/Aug/14 with Steven Andrews

Ace! Even if slightly damp.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Aug/14

dave o - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Double D

PeteLoveless - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Caelan Barnes

Lovely climb, last pitch is amazing.
ziggy996 - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/14

Cold and wet, improved higher up as did the weather!
jamie ward - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Wayne Riggot

malone - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14 with Andrew Appleby

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/14

Freezing, damp and very windy! Had to walk up as snow in the gully.
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/14

mjackson - AltLd - 19/Jun/14

RocKalina - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/14 with climberandy

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/14

I led P1 and P3. The approach was the crux, traversing loose ground under threatening cornices, then crossing a final snow gully, where C was hit by ice fall. As we were climbing, a huge lump of rock fell down the face crossing our traverse line. Scary stuff. The route itself was excellent, though perhaps not 4-star excellent (C-C Route was better). Anyone know why the latest SMC guidebook describes the 2nd pitch as climbing to the right of the crack, rather than up it?
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14 with Carmen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14

Led p2
David_Gledson - AltLd O/S - 20/May/14 with Gary

did 1st and 3rd pitches
CaelanB - AltLd O/S - 2014 with pete loveless

Hidden - 2014

luckyjim - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with D Helm

daWalt - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Lisa

Mike.Kinge - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with scott, phil

girlymonkey - AltLd - 01/Jul/13 with Iain Smith

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/13

nich0las - Lead - 09/Jun/13 with Catriona C

Excellent; location, atmosphere and rock. Still lots of snow on approach gully and bottom of climb.
arduff - AltLd - 08/Jun/13 with dave wild

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/13

A fantastic trip never forgotten
Patrick803 - Lead - 06/Jun/13 with Jeremy Windsor, Mark Lambert

westong - 2013

westong - 2013

captain - 2013

captain - 2013

AC1 - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12

pitch 1
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Stuart Kennedy, Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/12

Gadameer - Lead - 05/Jun/12

Wonderful route!
ladislav - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Stuart

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/12

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Solo O/S - 31/Aug/11

david0811 - AltLd - 05/Aug/11 with debbie, Dave Riley

an absolute classic, worth every star! finished direct up the offwidth at around Severe
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Debbie Lee

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/11

Led pitch one
SharonC1604 - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/11 with DaveB

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11

Biked in from the Braemar-side and camped on the north-side of the Sneck. Set off next morning and found a steep frozen snow gulley still in place at the very foot of Squareface. Required carrying a rock to smash steps as I crossed at the narrowest part on lead! Other than that a lovely sunny day on a great route. The freshly sharpened granite meant I ended up with blood-covered hands by the end, which added to the dramatic effect! Bagged Beinn a Bhuird North Top on the way off. VDiff climbing, with a VS atmosphere!
hcooper - Lead - 30/Apr/11 with Jennifer Slack

Amazing day out. Amelia led p.1 and 3. Cold, despite sunny skies. Lots of snow in the gully still. Pitch 3 is excellent.
bnewman - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Amelia

top pitch climbing the flake was fantastic! Brilliant climb in a cracking setting. 4*'s!
Jen80 - 2nd - 30/Apr/11 with Cooper

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11

brianrunner - 2011

alkira - 2011

hedgehog77 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/10

Lovely wee route, cycled in from tomintoul, left bikes at the ponyman's hut. 4hrs at a fairly easy pace. Very worthwhile day out!
tallthinmonkey - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Ewan Paterson

pitch 1 and 3. done in a day, stunning weather and allround fantastic experience!
cogg13 - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with dave laird

Really amazing route, fully deserving of it's stars...
JdotP - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Crazy Dave

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10

srwarrender - AltLd - 08/Aug/10

Pitches 1 and 3
Mairi Nelson - AltLd - 03/Jul/10 with Ommuff

Ommuff - AltLd - 03/Jul/10 with Mairi Nelson

Fantastic route! Top pitch done with thunder rumbling, topped out into torrential hail. Led pitch 1 and 3.
fall-line - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Mark Hammonds

Quality stuff! Led pitch 2 (fairly bold traverse). Would have been nice to savour pitch 3 but the rumbling thunder inspired hast... Followed by Khalid & Em (who felt the full effect of the hail!).
markhammonds - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Donald Slater

Climbed in increasingly persistant drizzle from start of pitch 2. Traverse felt fine for Vdiff. Final slab was hard in the wet, feel like I need to do the climb again in the dry to appreciate fully how good it is :(
CurlyStevo - AltLd - Sep/09 with Kenny

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/09

Mike led pitch 1, I led 2 & 3. Great route, the bottom pitch was wet but the top 2 were great.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Mike

Done in the rain. Great fun!
Mike-W-99 - AltLd - 29/Aug/09 with Fiona

Roped but moving together, great fun.
IceBun - 04/Jul/09 with Dan Richardson

Cacyn - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/09 with John Jackson

I led p2. Great views and great climbing. I liked p3 the best, it was just over too quickly.
Sutty22 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/09 with Ian Watson

Led pitch 1 and 3. A wonderful climb that was over too soon.
errrrm? - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/09 with sutty

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jun/09

Phenomenal. Felt initial traverse of pitch two a tad extreme for VD (I'd have it around 4b). Wisps of fluttering snow as we climbed. Could well be the best VDif in the world, but also feels like a VS, just amazing.
jimorothy - Lead - 26/May/09 with Rachel Crolla

BallsOfSteel - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with steve peatfield

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 24/May/09 with Rob Horler

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/09

Alpine style - approach in crampons, climbed in boots. (despite the snow, frozen turf and verglas)
Fultonius - 27/Dec/08 with Neil Adams and Andy Inglis

Done as a rock climb in big boots, despite frozen turf, verglass and the odd spot of hoar.
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/08 with Ally F and Andy I

Nice route.....
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/08 with Neil and Ally

AlexD - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/08 with joeurwin

joeurwin - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/08 with alex

ollythomas - Lead - 30/Jul/08 with Chris Hendron

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/08

If doing it in a day, the walk in is a serious killer. Also, make sure you don't try to decend the gully in front of the butress - it's nasty and loose. Once you're there though, the climbing is lovely, particularly on the top pitch.
alexanderpatton - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Alex Kidgell

alexkidgell - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Alex Patton

Hidden - 2008

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's

FrankW - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Colin Adams

Seconded pitch 1 - graesy and a bit scrappy. Led pitch 2, superb pitch, interesting descent to start it. Seconded pitch 3, the layback flake is brilliant and needs to go on for much longer.
Allan Young - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Steve Turner

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Aug/07

mikemartin - 2nd - 25/Aug/07

A straightforward and enjoyable climb. No seepage when we did it despite significant seepage on other crags following a wet summer. Good, sound rock. Easiest descent to foot of route is not the gully beside the route but further round the corrie.
RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Mike and Chris

Will carry more quickdraws next time!!!
Sean Rivers - AltLd - 17/Aug/07 with Lewis + Colin

lewisgeddes - AltLd - 17/Aug/07 with Sean and Colin

IanGilbertJones - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd - 23/May/07

dthomson - AltLd - 05/May/07 with Mike Dixon

Blue sky, sunshine, dry rock! Fanstastic!
DavPk - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Catherine Pearks

timmy-ts - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/06

Fine weather until we got to the route then intermittent showers. Very quick drying though.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/06 with Steve Brock

Very wet, but excellent friction.
George Ormerod - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/06 with Clare W

Did direct severe finish
Captain Solo - Lead - 04/Jun/06 with Karen

JohnMetcalfe - 2nd - 2006 with Peter Metcalfe

ill_bill - AltLd - Jul/05

Chris Davids - Lead O/S - 21/May/05 with Rob, Malcolm

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/May/05

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Stuart Shaw

Best approach from Braemar side is to continue W along ridge from The Sneck and descend the gully when the buttress comes into view. Absolute classic - do it!
Peter Metcalfe - Lead - 18/Aug/04 with John Metcalfe

220bpm - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Dave

Lead 1st pitch
Yourlead - AltLd - 24/Aug/03 with Raymond Simpson, Graham Penny

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 09/Aug/03 with Roddy

Hidden - Lead - 2002

abbeywall - AltLd - 2001

Phill_ Thompson - AltLd - May/00 with Helen Whiteman

Steve Lenartowicz - 2000 with Steve G

graeme gatherer - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/99

Phill_ Thompson - May/99 with Helen Whiteman

mjeffery - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jun/98

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/97 with Ian Stevens

DundeeDave - AltLd - 03/Aug/97 with Ben Hughes

puddingstone - 2nd - 19/Jul/97 with Andy

babymoac - Lead - 19/Jul/97 with Liz

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/97

konacol - Lead - 24/Aug/96 with Neil Reid

Yourlead - Lead - 29/Jul/96 with Connie MacAlistair

Richard Weller - AltLd - 11/Sep/94 with David Strang

Summer snowstorm; pretty grim.
alan moore - Lead - May/94

Hidden - Aug/92

Finished up severe crack.led 1&3
Iain Thow - AltLd - 30/May/92 with Pete Brown

Hidden - Solo - 29/May/92

Hidden - AltLd - 1992

rob from scotland - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Andy Say - Solo - 21/Aug/89

Bivvied on summit
auldscotal - AltLd O/S - 1989 with Pete Main

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/86

We were already tired from the long walk in and climbing the Cumming-Crofton Route in a sudden snow storm, so as it was about 6 pm, we decided to down-climb and abseil Squareface, then lead back up it again. Two great routes, paid for by staggering home once more under a stunningly inky black but starlit sky . No-one else there, what a Magic day !
rogerskews - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/86 with Nigel Bond

Nigel Bond - Lead - 28/May/85 with Roger Skews

amcleish - 1985

In big boots.
johnkeith - AltLd - 1982 with G. Callander

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Total votes cast 69
hard HVD0 of 34
HVD0 of 34
easy HVD1 of 34
hard VD4 of 34
VD26 of 34
easy VD3 of 34
hard HD0 of 34
HD0 of 34
easy HD0 of 34
3 Stars34 of 35
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