Hidden 19/Oct Solo
yehti 03/Oct AltLd

Lead p3 by severe variation. Peter lead 1 and 2.

with Peter Young
LiamJC 26/Sep 2nd O/S
with Fergus
Jamie Johnston 19/Sep AltLd

First pitch of Angel's Edgeway, merging into Squareface for second and third pitches, finishing with the Severe variation at the top.

Lawrie Brand 19/Sep Lead O/S
with Sarah Laing
skirton 19/Sep AltLd

Took the S finish. Great exposure

Hidden 19/Sep 2nd
Conan 09/Sep AltLd O/S
with John Jennings
jrccrosby 06/Aug AltLd O/S

First pitch is rubbish but the next two are fantastic

with Elsie
thermaldan 09/Jul Lead
with Lea
gunnarofhlidarend ??/2015 AltLd
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead
Louvet 10/Sep/14 2nd
with Tarquin
Quallim 31/Aug/14 AltLd

Midged and an ode to David Coulthard.

with Steven Andrews
Steven Andrews 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Ace! Even if slightly damp.

Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd
dave o 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S


PeteLoveless 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Caelan Barnes
ziggy996 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Lovely climb, last pitch is amazing.

jamie ward 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Cold and wet, improved higher up as did the weather!

with Wayne Riggot
malone 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/14 AltLd
Graham Westbrook 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Freezing, damp and very windy! Had to walk up as snow in the gully.

mjackson 19/Jun/14 AltLd
RocKalina 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd
Simon Caldwell 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

I led P1 and P3. The approach was the crux, traversing loose ground under threatening cornices, then crossing a final snow gully, where C was hit by ice fall. As we were climbing, a huge lump of rock fell down the face crossing our traverse line. Scary stuff. The route itself was excellent, though perhaps not 4-star excellent (C-C Route was better). Anyone know why the latest SMC guidebook describes the 2nd pitch as climbing to the right of the crack, rather than up it?

with Carmen
Hidden 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
David_Gledson 20/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Gary
CaelanB ??/2014 AltLd O/S

did 1st and 3rd pitches

with pete loveless
Hidden ??/2014 -
luckyjim 14/Jul/13 AltLd
with D Helm
daWalt 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Lisa
Mike.Kinge 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with scott, phil
girlymonkey 01/Jul/13 AltLd
with Iain Smith
Hidden 12/Jun/13 AltLd
nich0las 09/Jun/13 Lead
with Catriona C
arduff 08/Jun/13 AltLd

Excellent; location, atmosphere and rock. Still lots of snow on approach gully and bottom of climb.

with dave wild
Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd
Patrick803 06/Jun/13 Lead

A fantastic trip never forgotten

with Jeremy Windsor, Mark Lambert
westong ??/2013 -
westong ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
AC1 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
michael83 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

pitch 1

Hidden 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/12 AltLd
Gadameer 05/Jun/12 Lead
ladislav 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Wonderful route!

with Stuart
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 31/Aug/11 Solo O/S
david0811 05/Aug/11 AltLd
with debbie, Dave Riley
MrRiley 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

an absolute classic, worth every star! finished direct up the offwidth at around Severe

Hidden 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
SharonC1604 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitch one

with DaveB
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
hcooper 30/Apr/11 Lead

Biked in from the Braemar-side and camped on the north-side of the Sneck. Set off next morning and found a steep frozen snow gulley still in place at the very foot of Squareface. Required carrying a rock to smash steps as I crossed at the narrowest part on lead! Other than that a lovely sunny day on a great route. The freshly sharpened granite meant I ended up with blood-covered hands by the end, which added to the dramatic effect! Bagged Beinn a Bhuird North Top on the way off. VDiff climbing, with a VS atmosphere!

bnewman 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing day out. Amelia led p.1 and 3. Cold, despite sunny skies. Lots of snow in the gully still. Pitch 3 is excellent.

with Amelia
Jen80 30/Apr/11 2nd

top pitch climbing the flake was fantastic! Brilliant climb in a cracking setting. 4*'s!

with Cooper
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
brianrunner ??/2011 -
alkira ??/2011 -
hedgehog77 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
tallthinmonkey 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Lovely wee route, cycled in from tomintoul, left bikes at the ponyman's hut. 4hrs at a fairly easy pace. Very worthwhile day out!

with Ewan Paterson
cogg13 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 and 3. done in a day, stunning weather and allround fantastic experience!

with dave laird
JdotP 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Really amazing route, fully deserving of it's stars...

with Crazy Dave
Hidden 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
srwarrender 08/Aug/10 AltLd
Mairi Nelson 03/Jul/10 AltLd

Pitches 1 and 3

with Ommuff
Ommuff 03/Jul/10 AltLd
with Mairi Nelson
fall-line 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route! Top pitch done with thunder rumbling, topped out into torrential hail. Led pitch 1 and 3.

with Mark Hammonds
markhammonds 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Quality stuff! Led pitch 2 (fairly bold traverse). Would have been nice to savour pitch 3 but the rumbling thunder inspired hast... Followed by Khalid & Em (who felt the full effect of the hail!).

CurlyStevo ?/Sep/09 AltLd

Climbed in increasingly persistant drizzle from start of pitch 2. Traverse felt fine for Vdiff. Final slab was hard in the wet, feel like I need to do the climb again in the dry to appreciate fully how good it is :(

with Kenny
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/09 AltLd
Fiona Reid 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Mike led pitch 1, I led 2 & 3. Great route, the bottom pitch was wet but the top 2 were great.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 29/Aug/09 AltLd

Done in the rain. Great fun!

with Fiona
IceBun 04/Jul/09 -

Roped but moving together, great fun.

with Dan Richardson
Cacyn 28/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with John Jackson
Sutty22 01/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

I led p2. Great views and great climbing. I liked p3 the best, it was just over too quickly.

errrrm? 01/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3. A wonderful climb that was over too soon.

with sutty
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Solo O/S
jimorothy 26/May/09 Lead

Phenomenal. Felt initial traverse of pitch two a tad extreme for VD (I'd have it around 4b). Wisps of fluttering snow as we climbed. Could well be the best VDif in the world, but also feels like a VS, just amazing.

with Rachel Crolla
BallsOfSteel 24/May/09 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 24/May/09 Lead
with Rob Horler
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
Fultonius 27/Dec/08 -

Alpine style - approach in crampons, climbed in boots. (despite the snow, frozen turf and verglas)

with Neil Adams and Andy Inglis
Neil Adams 27/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Done as a rock climb in big boots, despite frozen turf, verglass and the odd spot of hoar.

with Ally F and Andy I
andyinglis 27/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Nice route.....

with Neil and Ally
AlexD 03/Sep/08 Lead O/S
joeurwin 02/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with alex
ollythomas 30/Jul/08 Lead
with Chris Hendron
Hidden 28/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/08 AltLd rpt
Hidden 28/Jun/08 AltLd
alexanderpatton 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S

If doing it in a day, the walk in is a serious killer. Also, make sure you don't try to decend the gully in front of the butress - it's nasty and loose. Once you're there though, the climbing is lovely, particularly on the top pitch.

alexkidgell 24/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
FrankW 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Colin Adams
Allan Young 30/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Seconded pitch 1 - graesy and a bit scrappy. Led pitch 2, superb pitch, interesting descent to start it. Seconded pitch 3, the layback flake is brilliant and needs to go on for much longer.

with Steve Turner
Hidden 25/Aug/07 AltLd
mikemartin 25/Aug/07 2nd
RobScotland 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

A straightforward and enjoyable climb. No seepage when we did it despite significant seepage on other crags following a wet summer. Good, sound rock. Easiest descent to foot of route is not the gully beside the route but further round the corrie.

with Mike and Chris
Sean Rivers 17/Aug/07 AltLd

Will carry more quickdraws next time!!!

with Lewis + Colin
lewisgeddes 17/Aug/07 AltLd
with Sean and Colin
Chris Ellis 21/Jul/07 AltLd
with Mark Baines, Jim Hatfield, Andy Brown, Ian Taylor, Dan Morgan
IanGilbertJones 20/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 23/May/07 AltLd
dthomson 05/May/07 AltLd
with Mike Dixon
DavPk 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Blue sky, sunshine, dry rock! Fanstastic!

with Catherine Pearks
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden 30/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Bob 28/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Fine weather until we got to the route then intermittent showers. Very quick drying though.

with Steve Brock
George Ormerod 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Very wet, but excellent friction.

with Clare W
Captain Solo 04/Jun/06 Lead

Did direct severe finish

with Karen
JohnMetcalfe ??/2006 2nd


with Peter Metcalfe
ill_bill ?/Jul/05 AltLd
Chris Davids 21/May/05 Lead O/S
with Rob, Malcolm
Hidden 01/May/05 AltLd O/S
Chris L Hill ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Shaw
Peter Metcalfe 18/Aug/04 Lead

Best approach from Braemar side is to continue W along ridge from The Sneck and descend the gully when the buttress comes into view. Absolute classic - do it!

220bpm ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Yourlead 24/Aug/03 AltLd

Lead 1st pitch

with Raymond Simpson, Graham Penny
Stuart Macfarlane 09/Aug/03 AltLd
with Roddy
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
abbeywall ??/2001 AltLd
Phill_ Thompson ?/May/00 AltLd
with Helen Whiteman
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2000 -
with Steve G
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Hidden 02/May/99 AltLd O/S
Phill_ Thompson ?/May/99 -
with Helen Whiteman
mjeffery ??/1999 -
Hidden 21/Jun/98 AltLd
charlesmfrench 14/Sep/97 AltLd O/S


with Ian Stevens
DundeeDave 03/Aug/97 AltLd
with Ben Hughes
puddingstone 19/Jul/97 2nd
with Andy
babymoac 19/Jul/97 Lead
with Liz
Hidden ?/Jul/97 AltLd
konacol 24/Aug/96 Lead
Yourlead 29/Jul/96 Lead
with Connie MacAlistair
Richard Weller 11/Sep/94 AltLd
with David Strang
alan moore ?/May/94 Lead

Summer snowstorm; pretty grim.

Hidden ?/Aug/92 -
Iain Thow 30/May/92 AltLd

Finished up severe crack.led 1&3

with Pete Brown
Hidden 29/May/92 Solo
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
rob from scotland ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Andy Say 21/Aug/89 Solo
auldscotal ??/1989 AltLd O/S

Bivvied on summit

with Pete Main
Hidden 25/Jun/86 AltLd
rogerskews 04/Jun/85 AltLd O/S

We were already tired from the long walk in and climbing the Cumming-Crofton Route in a sudden snow storm, so as it was about 6 pm, we decided to down-climb and abseil Squareface, then lead back up it again. Two great routes, paid for by staggering home once more under a stunningly inky black but starlit sky . No-one else there, what a Magic day !

Nigel Bond 28/May/85 Lead
with Roger Skews
amcleish ??/1985 -
johnkeith ??/1982 AltLd

In big boots.

with G. Callander
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Votes cast 34
Votes cast 35
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