Rockfax Description
The route offers continuous climbing on steep rock up a direct line in the central part of the wall. The rock is of good quality although the last two pitches are rather mossy. Take a normal Lofoten rack, with one big cam.
1) N6, 40m. Start in a small right-facing groove in the centre of the wall. This leads up to a big chimney. Traverse left to a stance at the bottom of a clean 50m right-facing dihedral.
2) N7-, 50m. Sustained climbing straight up the clean groove. When it ends step left to a hanging stance at a flake.
3) N7, 40m. Head straight up in cracks into to a left-facing groove with a little roof. After 5m, make bold moves left on the face and then back again. Pass the roof to a stance on the right.
4) N6+, 35m. Climb parallel cracks to a hanging stance before the angle eases off.
5) N6+, 50m. Climb the right side of the slab then traverse left to a big corner. Take a stance in a niche by a short wide crack.
6) N7-, 60m. Climb straight up and then traverse right at a horizontal crack. Head up a mossy dihedral that leads to a gully. Traverse left to a small overhang. A big cam is crucial for protection here. Go left easily to the top. © Rockfax

Andreas Holm, Ola Kalen, Henrik Sj?qvist 13.7.2009 13/Jul/2009.

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