Rockfax Description
This is a long mountain day with some route finding challenges, but is worthwhile for the superb ridge. The lower section is often heavily vegetated, but things improve as the route progresses.
Start on the left side of the gully between Grande Fermeda and Odla di Cisles.
1) 130m. Enter the gully and walk between two large boulders to the left side. Follow a path left to reach a grassy ramp, and ascend this left until the path branches right. Follow this for 20m to a stance below a crack.
2) III+, 45m. Climb the crack, move left around a boulder and follow a grassy ramp to another short crack leading right.
3) III, 40m. Follow the crack right to reach a vague arete, and climb this left via a chimney to a grassy stance.
4) IV-, 55m. Move right then climb a crack direct to a large cave.
5) III, 35m. Exit left from the cave and follow an easy ramp.
6) III, 35m. Move right then climb a grey slab.
7) III, 30m. Climb a similar slab above, moving left at the top.
8) III, 30m. Follow a chimney diagonally rightwards to a notch.
9) III, 45m. Keep right of the arete on grey rock, pull through a niche to a stance below the right-hand of two higher niches.
10) III+, 20m. Move right under the niche then direct to a col.
11) IV, 45m. Move onto the left side of the arete and climb through a cluster of niches to a stance on the arete.
12) IV, 25m. Climb the exposed arete.
13) III, 30m. Continue up the arete.
14) II, 30m. Follow the arete to a notch below the summit.
15) III+, 30m. Move right onto the east side and descend a flaked chimney and a crack to a chimney.
16) IV-, 40m. Climb the chimney to join the Grande Fermeda Normal Route.
17-18) Follow the final two pitches of the Grande Fermeda Normal Route. © Rockfax

Feedback Always Hide βeta