Rockfax Description
A big and serious route. If the start is not accessible, or wet, then the stance at the top of its first pitch can be gained via Right Angle Variation. Start in the cave, which can be gained by an abseil or via an awkward traverse from Right Angle.
1) 4a, 20m. Take the chimney to the roof and traverse left to the base of the Right Angle corner. Move up this for 3m and belay.
2) 5b, 15m. Move out onto the right wall and head past a flat-topped block to meet a groove. Climb the groove and then move right and back left to a stance and belay.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb the steep and exposed groove to the top. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards S.Salmon 1978.
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A Sackful of Clowns
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carn Gowla)