UKC

625m, 16 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb semi-bolted modern route. The rock is continually excellent and the grade consistently high, making this route destined to become a classic of the face. Don't let the bolts fool you though - this is a tough climb with some long run-outs between fixed gear.
Start 30m left of the gully that bounds the right side of the face.
1) 6a, 35m. 2) 6b, 40m. 3) 6a, 40m. 4) 5c, 30m. 5) 6b+, 55m. 6) 6c, 35m. 7) 7a, 20m. 8) 7b+, 50m. 9) 7a+, 55m.
10) 7b+, 35m. 11) 6a, 50m. 12) 5c, 40m. 13) 6c, 40m.
14) 7b, 40m. 15) 5c, 20m. 16) 6b, 40m. © Rockfax

FA. Da Pozzo, Menardi 2005 15/Jun/2005.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alasdair Fulton 16 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: On the 7a pitch the natural line continues upwards after the roof, but the bolts are out to the right (presumably to pull you back to the better rock). We followed the chalk upwards onto loose and poorly protected ground before you can teeter right to the belay. On the 1st 7b+ pitch, after the kneebar rest in the roof the true line seems to pull straight through the steep wall above on savage holds, past the bolt. The more natural line climbs out left, is slightly easier but you don't get much pro and you cannot traverse back to the bolt. On the 6c pitch, keep going through the cave and there is a bolted anchor above. The topo on planet mountain shows it stopping lower on natural pro... Rockfax topo is insufficient for adequate route finding...
Show beta
βeta: On the 7a pitch the natural line continues upwards after the roof, but the bolts are out to the right (presumably to pull you back to the better rock). We followed the chalk upwards onto loose and poorly protected ground before you can teeter right to the belay. On the 1st 7b+ pitch, after the kneebar rest in the roof the true line seems to pull straight through the steep wall above on savage holds, past the bolt. The more natural line climbs out left, is slightly easier but you don't get much pro and you cannot traverse back to the bolt. On the 6c pitch, keep going through the cave and there is a bolted anchor above. The topo on planet mountain shows it stopping lower on natural pro... Rockfax topo is insufficient for adequate route finding...
Alasdair Fulton 16 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: "Continuously excellent" is pushing it. Maybe if your baseline is a mega chossy dolomites classic, but evern compared to the BH / Marmolada routes, Iso 2000 this has a more....serious...feel. Loads of great climbing, generally well bolted at the harder moves, except for the first crux pitch. More on that in the note above. Crux is probably harder after Simon pulled off the large, well chalked and used, block below the roof on the second 7b+ pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "Continuously excellent" is pushing it. Maybe if your baseline is a mega chossy dolomites classic, but evern compared to the BH / Marmolada routes, Iso 2000 this has a more....serious...feel. Loads of great climbing, generally well bolted at the harder moves, except for the first crux pitch. More on that in the note above. Crux is probably harder after Simon pulled off the large, well chalked and used, block below the roof on the second 7b+ pitch.

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Grade: 7b+ ***
(Sass de Stria (Hexenstein))

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