Rockfax Description
Despite its comparatively short length by Dolomites standards this route is a tough test of stamina.
Start at the base of a cracked yellow corner.
1) VIII-, 35m. Climb the overhang at the base of the corner then follow this to reach the roof. Traverse right for 12m then overcome a smooth face diagonally right to another overhang. Pull through this with difficulty to reach a small ledge.
2) VI+, 35m. Move diagonally right for 10m then move 3m back left to reach a narrow crack. Follow this to its end then climb the face to a good ledge below an overhang.
3) IV+, 20m. Climb diagonally right over easier ground to join Via Myriam, just left of the large roof which splits the face at half-height.
4) VI, 20m. Do not continue left as Via Myriam but, instead, move diagonally right to reach the arete. Continue with exposed climbing to reach a stance just right of the arete.
5) V, 15m. Climb a short steep crack and a corner then move right over easier rock to the summit. © Rockfax
FA. Alver?, Ghedina 1942 15/Jun/1942.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
bclifton | 11 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The last pitch is 60m not 15m. It is split with a bolted belay. Clear mistake in the guide already mentioned here | ||
Show beta
βeta: The last pitch is 60m not 15m. It is split with a bolted belay. Clear mistake in the guide already mentioned here |
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Grade: VIII- ***
(Cima Scotoni)