Primroses* HVS 4c
[Topo, 2 kb]NE Ridge

1. (40m) Start at a section of wavy, brittle-looking rock about 30m above from the small stone wall. Climb up along the easiest line for about 40m to a boulder belay in a small alcove with a clean looking slab slightly below and left.

2. (40m, HS/VS 4b) Step down and left to the ledge at the bottom of the slab and step around the corner and up along decent rock. Continue up a dirty looking obvious corner and belay on the next stretch of level ground.

3. (40m) Head up along the R hand edge of the ridge from here to a boulder belay with some green tape wrapped around it (back it up).

4. (30m, HVS 5a) Head up the obvious corner R of the belay, stepping out to the arete to bypass a green ledge. Move back left and climb through a steep groove and up and left to an exciting, exposed stance.

5. (40m, HS 4b) Climb steeply up from the belay heading left past some big, unstable blocks on green ledges. Climb the cleaner wall above via a L-trending groove on its L side and belay above. The ridge proper is reached by now.

6. (40m) Follow ridgeÖ

7. (50m, VS 4c) Climb the wall above passing the overhang, avoiding sitting blocks. Climb the wall above and move L under the roof until itís possible to traverse R to the notch in the overhang. Pull through this in a stunning position on huge holds and carry on up to the next levelling in the ridge.

From here thereís not much need for a route description. Just follow the line of least resistance through some choss sections. About 3 more rope lengths brings you to the top of the An Droichead. Finish up Howling Ridge.

Con Moriarty, Damian Garland Jun/1983

Photo: Topo © cearbhalld
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This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Good route. Was very fast the second time we did it. If its dry....
mickd - AltLd - 2012

goatee - Lead - 2012 with Francis Jan Kluzniak

Would say that Primroses is VS but itís condition dependent. The first short pitch hasnít a lot of gear but if it is dry the moves are easy. The second pitch has a few harder moves but has reasonable protection. After that it is similar to the scrambling on Howling with the exception of a steep tower about half way up. Itís the most committing section and we took a direct line up it which finishes through a well protected overhang. Itís a very enjoyable route overall.
colenn - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/11 with Eoin Kelly

Major_Steve - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/09

KerryClimbing - AltLd - Jun/07

Long day - harder pitches at the bottom.
Robbie H - AltLd - 18/Apr/03 with Michael Morris

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
skipi, rob7b
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