This is possibkly the grimmest severe i have ever climbed.
Pitch 1 and 2 are basically grade 2 scrambles, pitch 3 took an hand-jam crack on the wall with good gear but all offset in body position, or a step onto the wall left which had aweful handholds and the feet all sloped the wrong way. After trying both, I backed off. In the end Pete led around the back and presumably in part onto the HVS Reids Route Pitch, which was better climbing (in my opinion) albeit sparse on the gear. Upon seconding this pitch I realized that the step onto the pinnacle was possibly the most contrived route i have ever seen, and entirely pointless. The second half of the final pitch was good holds/ gear but like the whole climb, the rock quality was awful! Good Lead for Pete Frost in Big Boots, definite well done for keeping it together. One I'm glad to have ticked but I won't be coming back to lead it, and I definatley wouldn't recommend it to anyone.
(OK, so this climb might not actually be so grim if the rock was a bit warmer, but both Pete and I got hot aches on this route...)Lucylou19 - 2nd - 19/Apr/14
Bottom two pitches are just scrambling. The "wall to the left of the crack" at the foot of the pinnacle is way too hard for severe and the crack defeated me in big boots, so I walked round to the right and up the gully behind the pinnacle to climb the HVS variation just to the right of the normal line. The rock is loose throughout and protection on the HVS is poor to non-existent in the lower section. Not a route to do on a freezing cold day in big boots.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Lucy Sutton
Step across was much tamer than I was expecting.
shed_hed - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low
dswansonlow - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/13 with Darren McMaster
JamesLloyd - Solo O/S - 24/Jul/13
cbeard - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Jonny Hawkins
A lovely route and antidote to Bon Mot (see earleir note). Adventurous in big boots.
joemallia - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Mark Sinclair
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13
Josiemc - 2nd - 04/Jul/13
Think I went the wrong way at the start of pitch 2 (trending leftwards) and went up something unprotectable, not recomended. Back on track for the step across though
sheelba - AltLd - 19/May/13
Sam led 2nd pitch (the step across)
JasonV - AltLd - 19/May/13 with Sam
Freezing day. Got lost in a load of loose rock somewhere near the pinnacle and finished up the escape rib on the right - Easy Pinnacle Face I think
Babika - Lead dnf - 04/May/13 with Sean Toms
Hidden - AltLd - 2013
bit of a sandbaggers route particularly so when its cold and damp - but otherwise a classic!
bob johnson - 07/Oct/12 with Rich Ball
In approach shoes.
MikeLell - Solo β - 30/May/12
zukator - 2012
Magnificent Monday-morning climb in mid-November! Steve had never climbed Reade's Route so had the honour of the lead throughout. He made short work of the technical difficulties and enjoyed the magnificance of the situation. We ate lunch on the 'summit' and marvelled at the views- the cwm below Clogwyn y Garnedd (which holds Glaslyn)was filled with mist. We left our bags near the top of Bwlch Coch and walked to Snowdon, eventually descending via the Bwlch to Cwm Glas and a hearty meal at Ynys Ettws. A Grand Day Out.
Falko - 2nd rpt - 14/Nov/11 with Steve M
Coel Hellier - AltLd - 30/Jul/11 with Duncan
Hmmm, HVD defo
Tom Hecht - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Lawrence Ramsey
Hidden - Solo - May/11
Awesome adventure climbing - Intending on CLimbing on Cloggy on the friday we set off Thursday afternoon for Crib goch with our climbing & camping gear. Arrived at the bottom at sunsetand climbed it in boots with heavy packs on.
Stepping across the pinnacle was wicked!
andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/11 with J
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11
Jo Davison - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Katie Preston
Awesome step out onto the face
katiep - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Jo Davison
I lead P1.
marcb - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with James Ryan
Hidden - 2011
PAJames - 2011
PAJames - 2011
Lovely route but best footholds for the committing pinnacle step over were covered in green slime. Very shaky move to get over. Rest of route had good gear and good belays. Awe inspiring place and hard to grade but new guide grade of severe seems about right (soft end). Great day but stupidly went to the log jam up the summit and into the cafe. Full of numpties all the way up and down. shorts, carrier bags, running mascara, frozen stiff.
Peakology - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with cat
An epic route to climb when not used to mountaineering. Exposed when stepping over from the spike especially when windy with the weather closing. Much fun had though.
Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Dom
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10
Big boots and sacks
LozM - 2nd - 04/Jul/10 with Mark J
great climb, bit sparse on gear
climbingxcat - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Brian
spadge - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Andy Gee
Climbed in big boots, then did the Horseshoe to complete the day.
jshields - Lead - 12/Jun/10 with Ian Hicks, Ed James
Cold northerly wind. Climbed in approach shoes with rope in pack and carrying a few bits of emergency ab gear, which weren't needed luckily. Descended via N ridge of Crib Goch
MikeLell - Solo O/S - 02/May/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/09
Anniversary ascent with Al. Captured a few nice images too.
Falko - Lead rpt - 01/Sep/09 with Al W.
alwyn101 - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Simon Roberts
Hidden - Lead dnf - Aug/09
Probably the steepest VDiff i've done, "shocking for the grade" only begins to describe it! Not very well protected either, cracks (when you find them) are either too wide or too narrow. Fortunately you're pulling on nice jugs all the way. Bex led pitch 1 which is basicly a scramble, combined pitches 2 & 3. Brilliant fun though and well worth the effort to get there.
asmith37 - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Bex Leigh
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 06/Dec/08
Led P1, and ran together P3, P4. Had trouble finding the second pitch, and Dad led something very steep! The gear is spaced for the last pitch. Very nice route.
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/08
i led pitch onto ledge below 1st pinnacle
tiga271 - AltLd - 15/Aug/08 with mark20
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/07
Truly a fine route for the grade. Crux is highly entertaining. Did it in hiking boots for a laugh, almost regretted it!
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Corky
Cameron13 - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/06 with Gary
Hidden - 2nd - 30/Sep/06
Neil Metcalfe101 - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/06 with Richard, Tony, Andy, Peter, Keith, Keith, Chris & Alan
emlynroberts - AltLd - 14/Jul/06 with Si Creer
Nicos - Lead O/S - 29/May/06 with rich howels
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/May/06
sammoore - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Will Sutcliffe
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/05 with Ed Booth
Ed Booth - AltLd - 29/Jun/05 with Adam Booth
Wayne S - 2005
Wayne S - 2005
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 2002 with Carmen
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2001
Hidden - Solo - 01/May/00
Ed Booth - 2000
zero six - Lead O/S - 2000
Avoided the climb up the big flake by going round the back and ascending the wall behind it!!
Ann S - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/99 with Bill Harrison
Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/98
Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/98
tricky in the pouring rain
babymoac - AltLd - 30/Oct/94 with Phil, graham d
Hidden - Oct/85
That top pitch makes the walk up worthwhile.
Sean Kelly - Jan/85 with Bob Anderson
mikej - Lead - 08/Jun/83 with Tony Waite
A fantastic achievement by Norman, with his two artificial legs. Done from a very fine camp beside Llyn Glas.
Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 28/Aug/77 with Norman Croucher
In the rain, in Super RDs and with big sacs. Part of a 'round trip' started because of poor morning weather in the Pass. Ended up doing Dolerite Dump, Slow Ledge, Reade's Route, Snowdon summit, Spiral Stairs, Dives, and Sabre Cut.
Falko - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/77 with Al W.
Bolt Phobia - Solo - 17/May/75 with John Young
Then run to top of Cloggy, for superb late evening rendezvous with my brother John and John Syrett at the top of The Mostest.
Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 28/Aug/70 with Sue Poyner
auldscotal - AltLd O/S - 1969 with ?
As round - Nose Direct,Main Wall, The Ring,Reades Route and Ivy Sep.
David Smith - Lead - 1965 with jim williams