Gates of Eden*** HVS 5a
[me on gates of eden daddyhole., 3 kb]40m, 3 pitches. Suffered rockfall since the last South Devon guide, now has a tricky 5a/b mantelshelf towards the end of the first pitch. The grade has been changed to reflect this (as in Rockfax).
Steve Dawson, John Hammond 1967

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs.

Photo: me on gates of eden daddyhole. © Kate Edhouse
View all 10 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 321 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

first half before finishing on last boat...
shoulders - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/15 with pete lewis

Rory Bascombe - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/15 with Chris Rees

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/15

chrisdevon - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/15 with Jonathan Preston

Sam went first in the day by the time we got back down it was allmost dark and once we started climbing it was pitch black no head torch night simul has to be the way to go 10/10 would reccomend. Ended up placing a size 1 wallnut and taking advantage of 2 rusty pegs, took about 10 minutes, not bad for a 3 pitch multipitch ;).
soloing 9a with out you looking - Solo rpt - 15/Aug/15 with sam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/15

NickJH - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/15 with Andy Dunhill

Traverses felt quite exciting!
bigbobbyking - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/15 with David Brock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/15

LauraTejada - 2nd - Jul/15 with Louise Ansell15

LauraTejada - 2nd - Jul/15 with Louise Ansell15

Hidden - Lead - Jul/15

tom169 - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Jamie

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/May/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/15

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 23/May/15

cheeky - AltLd O/S - 21/May/15 with Graham Westbrook

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 21/May/15 with Matt Payne

seconded pitches 1& 2 in one go, lead p3
Craggyman - AltLd O/S - 03/May/15

Jack Wallace - 2nd - 09/Apr/15

Jack Porteous - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/15

KimberlyJarrad - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/15 with Ewan Thomson

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Mar/15

darcan - AltLd - 18/Jan/15 with nick

nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/15 with Darcan

DubyaJamesDubya - 2015

Lee_Meaden - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/14 with Luke Robinson

Lovely route. 5a crux is very short and protected.
Jamiet297 - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Silvia Candia

silviac - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Jamie Trump

Lead pitches 2 and 3 together. Crux on pitch 1 harder than I remembered. Proper 3 star route.
chris ebbutt - AltLd - 03/Sep/14 with Sean

The first pitch given as 4b in the new SW guide. What planet are these people on?
Sean Kelly - AltLd - 03/Sep/14 with Chris Ebbutt

Echo previous comments one hard but obscenely well protected move
sheelba - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/14

climbed with a heavy back pack at the end of the day, led P1 + 2 in 1 pitch, fell at the crux of P1, I'm blaming the back pack
dbrooks - AltLd dog - 20/Jul/14 with gidmord

gidmord - AltLd - 20/Jul/14 with dbrooks

tskelhon - AltLd - 20/Jul/14 with Charlotte

clmacdonald - AltLd - 20/Jul/14 with tskelhon

several hours of misery in hanging belay. I ran pitches 1 + 2 together. The crux of P1 felt utterly nails and every bit 5a/b but I think I came in too high, wire was at my feet not head height.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/14 with Mel

Melonfly - 2nd - 18/Jul/14 with Caleb

Rob led first pitch
Danhan - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Rob Johnson

LDJ - Lead - 05/Jun/14 with Lou

dmaldonado - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Ed Walker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/14

Paul Robertson - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Guy Percival

Pretty easy for HVS
guy xavier percival - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/14 with paul

Excellent. Lead P1 and P3. Felt easy for HVS.
andrea83 - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Hamish

Really lovely route, great exposure. Lead P2.
Hamish777 - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Andrea

struggled with last move on the first pitch, moving into the belay point.
James.helm - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/14 with Jack keogan

James' first multipitch
Jack J Keogan - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/14 with James Helm

Good climbing and great positions. Not sure about the grade - VS would seem more appropriate for the single hard 5a move.
Phil79 - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Steve H

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/13

outdoorrob999 - 2nd - 31/Oct/13 with Samuel Wainwright

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Oct/13

Great climb, didn't find the crux at the top of the first pitch that bad. Lead pitches 1 and 3 with Will Stuckey leading pitch 2. Mark Edwards seconded all pitches. Belay positions a tad small for 3 really but we managed. Would do it on doubles next time so we could lead pitch 2 and 3 together, as the book says its a tad cramped under the ledge.
snook - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/13 with mark edwards

Lead P2, lovely crag, nice and quiet.
riddle - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Charles Moreton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13

Led p 1 & 2. Far too complacent & stupidly fell off the crux of p1. Some amazing exposure for the grade
cem - AltLd dog - 21/Sep/13 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

led p3
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd - 05/Sep/13 with Jeremy Windsor

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/13

Led first 2 pitches as 1. The 5a crux is awkward.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Martin Haworth

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/13

Step (5a move) on first pitch is the crux, but you can get a nut above you to protect the move
climbtim - AltLd - 22/Aug/13 with Tom Thorne

Norman_P_W - AltLd - 22/Aug/13 with Bob M

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/13

Lead all three pitches, last move of the first pitch is the crux of the route, but really well protected , boiling hot day, did the pimsole traverse afterwards
Grabtheslab - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13

Georgia H - Lead - Jul/13

steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/13 with Leo

Lead first pitch then Steve lead the next two in one
leo-z-g - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/13

lead top 2 pitches as 1. terrible rope drag but awesome climbing! easy but exposed. Vs5a
Webster - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/13

Huw Mithan - AltLd - 21/Jun/13 with Nina Reinschmidt

Brilliant varied climbing that is well protected throughout. Don't bother trying to cross onto the slab(crux), place a high right runner, back climb a little and go direct. 2nd belay pegs are shocking but good gear. Very exposed last two pitches. One of the best multi pitches i've climbed and Jules first multi HVS (although it's nearer to VS 5a).
Zoomer - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Julia Bloomer

Led 2nd & 3rd pitch as one
gripped01 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Jim Jarvis

Lead P2&3 together. Great route, superb position on great holds.
Merlin - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Dave Tait

Lead P1+P2 together. Francois lead P3. Nice climb - soft for a HVS (basically there is one 5a move)
BelayBunney - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Francois

Hidden - 2nd - 21/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 21/May/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/May/13

Fantastic climb, lovely easy moves but on really exposed positions so you can really feel it! Had a massive epic on the boulder field below when we were done, rockfall caught us as we were moving another route :(
Infinite Granite - AltLd O/S - 03/May/13 with Joey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/13

Ewan strung P1&2 together with a direct start.
Jack J Keogan - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/13 with Ewan Davies

Climbed with Dave Mitchell
kennythescot - AltLd O/S - Apr/13

Excellent still
Cheese Monkey - AltLd rpt - 06/Jan/13 with Iain

Nick Biven - 2013

Grabtheslab - 2013

Quality route, loved the exposure but the climbing was very very easy for the grade. The 5a mantel was tricky though. Pulled a large chunk out of the p3 crack which added a bit of spice at the end!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/12 with Ian M

Ian Miller - 2nd - 05/Dec/12 with Ben Darby

Great lead - snuck out on a day free of lectures and rain to give it a go. Lead all 3 pitches without too much trouble, although messed up rope handling at first belay a little. Thankfully sorted for the awkward second stance. Lottie's first multipitch (and just after our anniversary) so great to be on the cliff with her! Only vaguely hard moves at the end of the first pitch, and not above 4c. I think I used a different sequence to usual - no sign of the 5a/b mantle the guide books talk about?
Jack J Keogan - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/12 with Lottie Thorne

Lottie Thorne - 2nd O/S - 07/Nov/12 with Jack J Keogan

Motown - AltLd rpt - 20/Oct/12 with Mike

Kevster - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12

Motown - AltLd rpt - 13/Oct/12 with Luke

Led P2, great climb, definitly a VS though.
Mr Tickle - AltLd - 13/Oct/12 with Will

More like VS. not many better ways to spend your birthday.
JamesRich - AltLd β - 29/Sep/12 with Mark Davies, Rob stanfield

Homes - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with Dan W

Really good, but VS 4c. Did the top pitch. 3 people on the 2nd belay was a bit snug.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with James Rich, Mark Davis

Brilliant. No Way HVS 5a - possibly only still HS. crux is very well prtected 4c if you come in from the right. Linked p1+2
Urgles - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Rob and James

finished in the dark!
Philippa Arding - AltLd - 06/Sep/12 with jo nosworthy

HS/VS at most
Dave Rumney - AltLd - 01/Sep/12 with Tanya Milner

timreynolds - AltLd - 08/Aug/12 with Stuart

Me P1+3, Jon P2. A 3 star HS with one safe 5a move.
timstyles - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Jon Bradley

Happy 30th birthday Mike!
Thunderthighsontheloose - 2nd - 18/Jul/12 with Mike Hayes

First time at Daddyhole, fantastic climb, first pitch crux is fun, just give it maximum beans and all is good, I may retract this statement when I return to lead it :-D 2nd belay is immense, just hang out and enjoy the view (dont forget to belay though, top pitch has brilliant exposure, defo 3*
paul reah - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/12

Motown - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/12 with Paul

LEGENDARY ROUTE! first big trad route with hanging belay.
rustyfishhook - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/12

Great route and a top way to end a great day. Done in two pitches.
brew_guru - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/12 with jamie knight

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Harry Martin

Felix Ottey - Lead - 02/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/12

ed2204 - 2nd - 13/May/12 with Chris Wildblood

all 3 pitches
Doug miller - Lead rpt - 13/May/12 with steve sailsbury

Second due to a sprained ankle. Found a terrified Dougie at the second belay whose gear decided to pop after he started the 3rd pitch. Great end to the day!
SteveoS - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12 with Doug Miller

cwildblood - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/12

a nice route, quite soft for HVS. Kit lead the middle pitch and tried to sterilise it by placing nearly the entire rack!! Abbed back down from a "shrub".
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Kit Perry

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Mar/12

Excellent climbing, very exposed.
Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/12 with Alex Butler, Simon Hammond, Mike Garret

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 12/Feb/12 with Sarah W

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12

Mark Schramm led first two pitches as a single pitch. Sarah W led final, 3rd pitch
Sarah Welsh - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12 with Mark Schramm

P1 + p3, nice route. Prob vs 5a, crux is very well protected.
jezb1 - AltLd - 07/Jan/12

Tried to do Last Exit To Torquay, but could'nt even get through first overhang. Maybe not a good first post xmas trad lead. Finished up Gates of Eden
Ybot Htulk - AltLd - 06/Jan/12 with Jez

PAJames - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2012

DanDevey94 - 2nd O/S - 2012

Doug M = 1st Pitch, Me = 2nd Pitch, Doug M = 3rd Pitch. Amazing climbing.
JoeMortimer - AltLd - 27/Nov/11 with Doug Miller

Doug miller - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/11 with joe mortimer

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Oct/11

nopants - AltLd - 23/Oct/11 with julian h

gfoster - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Nick Blackbeard

awsome route ive done all 3 pitchs my partner thought i was a crazy man for hanging of two of the pegs and a size 8 nut:L
JackHatton - AltLd rpt - 24/Sep/11 with richy mardell

JackHatton - AltLd RP - 16/Sep/11 with richy mardell

timrowland - AltLd - 28/Aug/11 with Rob H, jmjw

jmjw - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Rob H, Tim R

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/11

A good route going through some impressive ground. lots of nice holds and gear wehn you need it most. Loved the exposure of the 2nd pitch!
Noodles - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Mollie Hughes

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/11

Ben led 1st and 2nd pitch, I led the 3rd.
Eike - AltLd - 03/Aug/11 with Ben Devenish

jbulger - AltLd - 30/Jul/11 with Geoff, Pete

Lead the last pitch. Plenty of bodged ropework.
Pete Scott - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11

Motown - AltLd rpt - 28/Jul/11 with Richy

repeat.led 1st/2nd pitches in one luke led 3rd
minexplorer - AltLd - 25/Jun/11 with luke

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - 10/Jun/11 with Richard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11

Lead 1st pitch
Richard Morgan - AltLd O/S - Jun/11 with Toby Kluth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/11

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch
gidmord - AltLd O/S - 22/May/11 with Alex

AlexD - AltLd O/S - 22/May/11 with Gideon

petecallaghan - 24/Apr/11 with Jess Gribble

elbeanio - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Apr/11

Is it a 5a move don't think so, more like 4b or may be 4c tops.
Frostie - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11

kyebrooks - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/11 with tim wade

francois - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Tammy

little_tammy - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Francois Bocquet

JulesClimbs - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/11 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/11

Lead The 3rd Pitch!
NathanC 1994 - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Richy Mardell

dmoir - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Rosie Crossley

Tough moves on p1 - took me awhile to work them out. Excellent positions, good friction.
Pete Nugent - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/11 with Andy Peasgood

Led pitch 1 and 3. Absolute top notch climbing. The cave is incredible, awesome belay position. Good to have finally ticked it off :)
Richy boy - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/11 with NathanC 1994

Best Climb Ive Done Yet, Only Led The 2nd Pitch But The Cave To Belay From Is Amazing Looking Over Everything :D All In All Awsome Climb
NathanC 1994 - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/11 with Richy Mardell

kyebrooks - Lead rpt - 03/Apr/11 with bryn mays

kyebrooks - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/11 with bryn mays

crimpy69 - AltLd - Apr/11

Davebryant - AltLd O/S - Apr/11 with Bryn Mays, Tom Brown

lead the 1st and 3rd pitch, really good climb. on the first mantle there was a bit of blind feeling but after that it was fine. some fun belay pitches.
brynmays - AltLd RP - 26/Mar/11 with Kye Brooks

kyebrooks - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with bryn mays

TerryLines - 23/Mar/11

A true epic
althesin - 2nd - 20/Mar/11 with Reds

Reds - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Althesin

brynmays - Lead dnf - 19/Mar/11 with Kye Brooks

ahhh got sketched out on the 1st pitch post that grassy ledge onto the diagonal ledge came off seconder went up got up towards the crack of LAT and had to come down himself annoying abd in to retrieve gear peg has gone completely... will be returning after alot of hangboard work...
kyebrooks - Lead dnf - 19/Mar/11 with bryn mays

A Nice climb. i knew the first was harder than my guide book said!! dunno bout hvs tho?
Tom D - AltLd - 12/Mar/11

all pitches. stupendous climbing
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/11 with ewan

mark schramm - AltLd - 05/Feb/11 with tom m

tommoulds - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/11 with Schramm

what a fantastic climb. done in glorious sunshine on perfect rock! tricky mantle on p1, p2 is out there with a wild belay, p3 is also good!! one of the best hvs's i've done ***
brew_guru - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/11 with super gav

Incredible! Real sense of height with some interesting belay positions
ewanthomson - 2nd O/S - 08/Jan/11 with Ed morris

lead middle pitch
r_findlay - AltLd - 2011 with stu_buchan43

lead pitches 3 and 3
mark schramm - Lead - 28/Oct/10 with steve P

Alex T (RAFMA) - AltLd - 04/Oct/10 with Rimon

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Oct/10

led 2nd pitch
Haytor_Haggis - AltLd - 02/Oct/10 with Steve Woollard

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/10 with Ian

good fun, didn't have time for a go at zuma, then it rained.
ian caton - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/10 with Abi

lead P2
andy dunn - AltLd - 26/Sep/10 with J

got to the traverse then coastguard came to say hello and gave me a free ride in the helicopter.
Aaron Phillips - 2nd dnf - 04/Sep/10 with my dad

after some time and much consideration we managed to split one 50m rope and reclimb it to retrieve our gear (and rope).
Aaron Phillips - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with my dad

had fun on this one! the Coastguard came along and winched my second off without being asked to do so leaving us to re climb it to get our gear back
Dawlish - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Son Aaron

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - Sep/10

Me & Knocker joint lead, great day
Charlie Ross - AltLd - 16/Aug/10

justin burgoyne - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10

Neil Rigiani - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Rich Mayfield

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Aug/10

Led P1 and 3. Big exposure with big holds, great. 5a bit was interesting too.
Ybot Htulk - AltLd - Aug/10 with Sonya

Homes - AltLd - 10/Jul/10 with Jonny C

jcook1980 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Luke Holmes

emsywemsy - 2nd - 08/Jul/10

emsywemsy - 2nd - 08/Jul/10

wow fantastic.felt brilliant sussing the move at bottom.ran pitch 1&2 together prot sparse but lots of good holds.what a great belay stance.
minexplorer - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with grant newcombe

Led first pitch didn't think it was 5a, Maybe hard 4b soft 4c?
mikeburf - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with Shaun

this was an amazing climb, i did my first 5a and loved the entire climb, found it was fairly easy climb, lots of foot and hand holds, nice grippy rock, good leads from my partner
Paragonthewise - 2nd - 22/May/10 with minexplorer

Cracking climb, lead the first pitch, the rock-over mantle is cheeky but nothing much to worry about. Chris combined the 2nd & 3rd pitches into one.
RandomHero - AltLd O/S - 10/May/10 with Chris Malin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/10

1st and 3rd pitch. Good route.
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/10 with Jay Jackson

Steve Lenartowicz - 2010

nickdonohue - Lead - 2010 with Steve ?

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Sep/09

With the hangover from hell, we set off for a "nice easy HS". 20 mins of faffing on the first pitch later, we were still trying to work out why it was so hard for something that was ungraded or whether we were still pissed. Also a wee bit worried about what the hardness of this pitch meant for the next two pitches! Just about to back off when another pair of climbers arrived and explained about the change. Confidence resumed, up we went. What a MENTAL stance at the top of the second!
FayeG - 2nd - 12/Aug/09 with Rory

sgl - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/09 with Susie

Such thing as a HS 5a? Mantle on P1 not that hard if you find the moves. The little under cut at the corner will take a couple of bomber cams (no.2 and 4 I think). Key for me was gettign my right hand in an away facing undercut hold at chest high just round the corner to enable a step up to a good waist-high right foothold.
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/09 with FayeG

Second pitch is fantastic, jugs keep coming but the position and belay stance/slope one of the best ever.
surfbish - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Hugh

henbot - AltLd - 10/Aug/09 with Duncan

piece of piss last pitch was done quickly before it got dark!!! VS 4c at most no 5a move anywhere!!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/09 with Henry

Did't know about the new grade!
37degrees - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/09 with Matthew Ellis

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jul/09

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09

Hanging belay gets cold towards sunset
LaybackLizzie - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/09 with Terry1080

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/09

Led 1st and 3rd pitch. Loved it!
northnorthnorth - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/09 with Ben Watts

nopants - AltLd - 2009

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Dec/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Dec/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Nov/08

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/08 with anna barnes

3rd lead repeat, aim for a solo next shot. It just gets better!!!
jon thompson27 - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/08 with Roger Wickham

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Jun/08

Lead 2nd pitch
Popkids - AltLd O/S - 30/May/08 with Kafoozalem

sharmawho? - Lead O/S - 05/May/08 with Dave, Sim

existing debt - May/08 with Iain a

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/08

Kate Edhouse - 2nd O/S - Jan/08 with James Clapham

sharmawho? - Lead O/S - 2008 with nick dave

Hidden - 2008

OliBoyes - Lead O/S - 2008 with Harry Smale

Someone actually voted this HVS, the its only one move!! Great route and last stance.
sebrider - AltLd O/S - 2008

Steerpike - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/07 with Bruce

Hidden - Lead - Nov/07

lead only second pitch
misterb - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/07 with dave

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07

eugeneth - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/07 with Seb

Love it!! What an awesom magical mystery tour that was!
jon thompson27 - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with ben harden

Awesom in everyway, crux has to be the rock over & mantle onto the slab slipped a no. 3 friend for lover's sake & lost my good handhold. Joy
jon thompson27 - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with ben harden

top bit very exciting- pretty pumpy and i was seconding. am a wimp though.
w.pettet-smith - Jul/07

Justin T - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/07 with Lynsey

Justin T - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/07 with Clara

Dave Searle - Lead - 04/Jun/07 with mark

A bit damp. Dive-bombed by seagulls at crux. Waterfall at first belay. Ropes tangled at second. Highly recommended! Peg on 1st belay is RUSTED THROUGH if you look closely at it...
Justin T - Lead rpt - 13/May/07 with Wifey

Okecroak - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/07 with M Mercy, C. Ebbutt

Completed after a retreat from LET
AJH - AltLd rpt - 15/Apr/07 with Crispin

Alaric - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Malcolm S

Justin T - AltLd rpt - 31/Mar/07 with Martin

Bird nest well protected by seagulls!!!??
Jon Evans - AltLd - 12/Mar/07 with Rob

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 03/Nov/06

Just remember, at the second belay, you go left to find a nice corner / crack. You don't forget the guidebook, try to finish up the last pitch of Gargantua, think 'damn I must be crap today' then ab off and have to return two days later to finish it properly... Post-rockfall mantel move on 1st pitch could be offputting if you weren't expecting it.
Justin T - Lead rpt - 03/Nov/06 with Wifey

Pegs have seen better days. Back them up!
sam coward - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06 with Wayne

Didnt know about rock fall and confounded for while.
manwithacam - AltLd - 26/Sep/06 with Martin

1 very hard move
Jon_Warner - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/06 with Dave B

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/06

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06 with sim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/06

babymoac - Lead - 29/Apr/06 with cash

Very enjoyable, exposed moves, mostly very easy but one hard move, 5a maybe?
Kyuzo - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/06 with Hal Watts

hal - Jan/06

leadmat - Lead - 2006

Too unbalanced to get 3 stars now.
richardr - Oct/05

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/05

chris sm - Lead - Apr/04 with Pippa Froggatt

Led P2
Stig - AltLd O/S - Apr/04 with Jonathan Teale

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/03 with Alexa

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 26/Oct/03 with Phillipa Beale

Robby's final climb and massive winger!
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Rob

HS -, 4b, 4a
Okecroak - AltLd - 09/May/02

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Apr/02

Hidden - AltLd - May/01

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/00

CraigMac1 - 2000

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

At the time, the most exposed HS in Britain...
alan moore - 2000

mikej - AltLd - 10/Oct/99 with Mike Byles

Mickdenali - Lead O/S - Aug/99 with Mark Harvey

AJH - 2nd O/S - 1999 with Henk

andy_pemberton - Lead - 1998

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Mar/97

andy gittins - 1995 with Mark Carnall

Simon cook - 1994

colin milton - Lead - 28/Aug/93 with eric milton

Rog Wilko - AltLd - Aug/92 with Debbie Wilkinson

rogerskews - AltLd - 25/May/92 with Martin Coward

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/90

sdht - 1990

ecowaller - 1990

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/86 with Jon Clifford-Smith

shark - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/84 with Gary from art college

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/83

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 07/May/83 with Tim Dunsby, Pam Holt

Andy Fielding - AltLd - 1983 with Mark Williams

Mike C - Lead - 07/Nov/81 with Sian Aubrey

Mike C - AltLd - 24/Feb/80

mark-abz - Lead - 24/Feb/80 with Rob S

Brian Wilderspin - AltLd - 24/Feb/80 with Mike C

Mike C - AltLd - 18/Jun/78 with Roger ?

Steve Bell - 1976 with Chris Gibson

Hidden - Lead - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Rory Bascombe, Sam Falconer, welsh boy, BrionyMartin, Infinite Granite, bazthomas, sarah hawker, Master Chief, Ropeboy, Tim Wade, kyebrooks, adam kendrick, matheub, MH123, Alan100, twright180, pedro.silva, est1985, graham knott, Humpty Dumpty1, Warren Earle, phosphojesus, bendurance

Total votes cast 232
hard E10 of 60
E10 of 60
easy E10 of 60
hard HVS1 of 60
HVS10 of 60
easy HVS27 of 60
hard VS16 of 60
VS6 of 60
easy VS0 of 60
hard 5b0 of 87
5b0 of 87
easy 5b5 of 87
hard 5a19 of 87
5a40 of 87
easy 5a9 of 87
hard 4c14 of 87
4c0 of 87
easy 4c0 of 87
3 Stars65 of 85
2 Stars15 of 85
1 Star5 of 85
0 Stars0 of 85
Bag of .....0 of 85
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP