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Lotus** E1 5b

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[Lotus being lead by Lee after I bottled the crux and heroically down climbed it., 2 kb]Despite its modest height this route packs in some excellent climbing in increasingly exposed positions. Start at the top of the ramp below the large corner in the centre of the crag.. 1) 5b, 30m. Climb the corner, which soon becomes strenuous. At the top of the second bulge, join the diagonal crack on the steep right wall and follow this to a slab. Climb the slab to its end at a bulge. Move around this, high or low, to nut belays.. 2) 4c, 15m. Make a tricky move to the right around a rib and onto a small slab. Follow this up to a ledge beneath a short steep wall. Move over this and belay on an old iron ring. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Lotus being lead by Lee after I bottled the crux and heroically down climbed it. © cuppatea
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 45 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Such a good route. Done in one long pitch. All was going well until Dan couldn't get past a wet section in the initial corner. Lowered him to the base. Then had to diagonally ab to get (most of) my gear with blocks being dislodged off the lip above whizzing past. Semi-epic. Retreat via the VS. Full north coast experience no. 2!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 10/Nov/13 with Dan Lear

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 19/Jul/13 with Gen

i.fish2000 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Debbie

In what felt like gale force winds. Had to weigh the ab rope down, platform was getting covered with swell, couldn't hear each other from 5 metres. Epic!
Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/13 with Callum

Pretty wild place in high winds and heavy seas! Good adventure!
callum brown - 2nd - 23/Jun/13 with Rich

danJBA - Lead O/S - 28/May/13 with James Hoar

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/13

Led main pitch top end e1, windy and big seas soaking the ledge, not the friendly crag I imagined, quite scary, strenuous with some iffy rock and gear, had a wobble or two, brilliant stance tho
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/12 with Jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/12

nick arding - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Philippa Arding

Philippa Arding - 2nd - 09/Aug/12 with nick arding

Wow. Great climb but hard work. Got to be 3 star and one of the harder E1's in the area. Initial corner great, steep wall really is steep, shouldn't have stalled at the lip of the slab! Belay was bomber and then the fun began! Started second pitch with awkward traverse right then headed directly up instead of taking another move right, realised I was wrong and as I stepped down I pulled a large block out of the face, interesting fall resulted. All well and finished route up to the right.
sh@budehaven.cornwall.sch.uk - Lead dog - 30/May/12

Interesting, great climbing but sustained. Simon took a scary fall after ripping a big block off.
Joel Perkin - 2nd - 30/May/12 with Simon Hammond

Dave Rumney - Lead - 01/Apr/12 with Tanya Milner

gowla - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with will kumar

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with michael porter

Lead p1 and finished in the dark. what a great way to finish a great day! Amasingly atmospheric, especially with big sea and dark rain clouds looming and fading daylight. Steep crux section, but great gear throughout.
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Rory

Mike lead crux pitch. Sustained, technical, absorbing, exhausting. Three stars.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Michael

Hidden - Lead - May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Good steady lead by Pete through some impressive terrain. Felt hard due to lack of climbing this year.
Phil79 - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Kafoozalem

Onsight with first few bits of gear pre-placed.
Justin T - Lead - 22/Aug/10 with Crispin

feilx - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Heather

Dilwat - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/10 with Nick

Lots of rope drag at end of 1st pitch. Tried to exit early - mistake - pulled off loose block & fell then finished as per normal route description.
nickdonohue - Lead - Apr/10 with Ian Riddell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/09

Excellent exposure on top pitch . Did in one pitch but needs 60m rope
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Nik Goile

Great first pitch - worth 3 stars
Steerpike - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/08 with Bruce

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - 2nd β - 26/Aug/07

Really quite good, well worthy of a trip. It's almost like 2 E1/ hard HVS sections which makes it feel a bit hard, but the gear's more than good enough in the groove if you look for it and the change in style afterwards comes like a wonderful relief.
Paz - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with AB

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/06 with Fiend

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 31/Jul/05 with Nic Dill

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/02

Billg - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/00 with Roy Ruddle

Mark Kemball - Lead - 25/Apr/98 with Jason Lloyd

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Apr/98

Done in a single pitch as didn't like the look of the belay. Lots of gear and an epic fall on the downclimb section from my second to be left free hanging! Full North Coast experience.
andy_pemberton - Lead - 1998

colin milton - Lead - 05/Aug/95 with eric milton

kp64zl - AltLd - Apr/92 with Keith, Jason M

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/90

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, johnpr, Master Chief, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Lane, nickstephens, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 58
hard E20 of 19
E20 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard E110 of 19
E18 of 19
easy E11 of 19
hard HVS0 of 19
HVS0 of 19
easy HVS0 of 19
hard 5c0 of 19
5c0 of 19
easy 5c0 of 19
hard 5b0 of 19
5b13 of 19
easy 5b5 of 19
hard 5a0 of 19
5a1 of 19
easy 5a0 of 19
3 Stars15 of 20
2 Stars5 of 20
1 Star0 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Lead24 of 45 (53.3%)
Followed9 of 45 (20.0%)
Alt Leads10 of 45 (22.2%)
Unknown2 of 45 (4.4%)

'Climbed'18 of 45 (40.0%)
clean O/S25 of 45 (55.6%)
clean β1 of 45 (2.2%)
dogged1 of 45 (2.2%)