Lotus*** E1 5b
[Magical Evening at Doyden point, 1 kb]

Rockfax Description
Despite its modest height this route packs in some excellent climbing in increasingly exposed positions. Start at the top of the ramp below the large corner in the centre of the crag.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the corner, which soon becomes strenuous. At the top of the second bulge, join the diagonal crack on the steep right wall and follow this to a slab. Climb the slab to its end at a bulge. Move around this, high or low, to nut belays.
2) 4c, 15m. Make a tricky move to the right around a rib and onto a small slab. Follow this up to a ledge beneath a short steep wall. Move over this and belay on an old iron ring. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Photo: Magical Evening at Doyden point © Sam Simpson
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This climb is in 69 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Mini epic adventure :)
Master Chief - 2nd dog - 27/Sep/15 with John Spear

Spearos - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/15 with Master Chief

Bit greasy, but great climb. Top end e1 I reckon.
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/15 with jamie ward

2nd Pitch - Very exiting route
jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/15 with Luke Rooker

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd dog - 11/Jul/15

Horribly hot.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/15 with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/15

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 25/May/15 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/15

lawsy_boy1 - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/15

5210Hill - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/15 with Alex stuckey

Lee_Meaden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/15 with James Laws

led p.1, thoroughly enjoyable route, definitely worthy of it's 3 stars
dbrooks - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/15 with Dr Dave

Led p2
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/15 with Derwood

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/14

Fantastic route, fantastic position. A new experience for Lottie, but through it in one piece in the end!
Jack J Keogan - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Lottie Thorne

Amazing route, worth coming to the crag just for this. Sadly dropped my size 6 dragon into the sea :-(
RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Bec

Alex Mason - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/14 with Jemma Powell

I'd give this 4 stars if I could. Just brilliant.
Dilwat - AltLd - 14/Jul/14 with Dave P

gg4419 - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Nick Stephens

nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Gareth Greeves

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/14

Hidden - 2014

Such a good route. Done in one long pitch. All was going well until Dan couldn't get past a wet section in the initial corner. Lowered him to the base. Then had to diagonally ab to get (most of) my gear with blocks being dislodged off the lip above whizzing past. Semi-epic. Retreat via the VS. Full north coast experience no. 2!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 10/Nov/13 with Dan Lear

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 19/Jul/13 with Gen

i.fish2000 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Debbie

In what felt like gale force winds. Had to weigh the ab rope down, platform was getting covered with swell, couldn't hear each other from 5 metres. Epic!
Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/13 with Callum

Pretty wild place in high winds and heavy seas! Good adventure!
callum brown - 2nd - 23/Jun/13 with Rich

danJBA - Lead O/S - 28/May/13 with James Hoar

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/13

Led main pitch, windy and big seas soaking the ledge, not the friendly crag or route I imagined, quite scary, strenuous with some iffy rock and gear, had a wobble or two, brilliant stance tho
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/12 with Jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/12

nick arding - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Philippa Arding

Philippa Arding - 2nd - 09/Aug/12 with nick arding

Wow. Great climb but hard work. Got to be 3 star and one of the harder E1's in the area. Initial corner great, steep wall really is steep, shouldn't have stalled at the lip of the slab! Belay was bomber and then the fun began! Started second pitch with awkward traverse right then headed directly up instead of taking another move right, realised I was wrong and as I stepped down I pulled a large block out of the face, interesting fall resulted. All well and finished route up to the right.
sh@budehaven.cornwall.sch.uk - Lead dog - 30/May/12

Interesting, great climbing but sustained. Simon took a scary fall after ripping a big block off.
Joel Perkin - 2nd - 30/May/12 with Simon Hammond

Dave Rumney - Lead - 01/Apr/12 with Tanya Milner

gowla - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with will kumar

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with michael porter

Lead p1 and finished in the dark. what a great way to finish a great day! Amasingly atmospheric, especially with big sea and dark rain clouds looming and fading daylight. Steep crux section, but great gear throughout.
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Rory

Mike lead crux pitch. Sustained, technical, absorbing, exhausting. Three stars.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Michael

Nick Wallis - Lead - May/11 with Laura

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Good steady lead by Pete through some impressive terrain. Felt hard due to lack of climbing this year.
Phil79 - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Kafoozalem

Onsight with first few bits of gear pre-placed.
Justin T - Lead - 22/Aug/10 with Crispin

feilx - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Heather

Dilwat - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/10 with Nick

Lots of rope drag at end of 1st pitch. Tried to exit early - mistake - pulled off loose block & fell then finished as per normal route description.
nickdonohue - Lead - Apr/10 with Ian Riddell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/09

Excellent exposure on top pitch . Did in one pitch but needs 60m rope
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Nik Goile

Great first pitch - worth 3 stars
Steerpike - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/08 with Bruce

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - 2nd β - 26/Aug/07

Really quite good, well worthy of a trip. It's almost like 2 E1/ hard HVS sections which makes it feel a bit hard, but the gear's more than good enough in the groove if you look for it and the change in style afterwards comes like a wonderful relief.
Paz - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with AB

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Urgles - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/06 with Fiend

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 31/Jul/05 with Nic Dill

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/02

Billg - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/00 with Roy Ruddle

Mark Kemball - Lead - 25/Apr/98 with Jason Lloyd

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Apr/98

Done in a single pitch as didn't like the look of the belay. Lots of gear and an epic fall on the downclimb section from my second to be left free hanging! Full North Coast experience.
andy_pemberton - Lead - 1998

colin milton - Lead - 05/Aug/95 with eric milton

kp64zl - AltLd - Apr/92 with Keith, Jason M

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/90

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Roget, Alex the Alex, max_dickens, hutchay, johnpr, Master Chief, Dan Lane

Total votes cast 87
hard E20 of 29
E20 of 29
easy E20 of 29
hard E114 of 29
E113 of 29
easy E12 of 29
hard HVS0 of 29
HVS0 of 29
easy HVS0 of 29
hard 5c0 of 29
5c0 of 29
easy 5c1 of 29
hard 5b0 of 29
5b20 of 29
easy 5b5 of 29
hard 5a2 of 29
5a1 of 29
easy 5a0 of 29
3 Stars23 of 29
2 Stars6 of 29
1 Star0 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β