Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A stupendous expedition weaving across the entire crag to finish up the hanging corner above the Alien Cave. Can be split into two pitches, using the base of the groove. From the Beat Ledge, traverse steadily rightwards, keeping just above the cave lip, to gain the exposed arete. Take either of the two good cracks (the lower one is recommended) to swing into the welded-flowstone corner on the right, and continue up this to the top (7a S3). © Rockfax
FSA. Crispin Waddy 28/May/1991.
101Pembroke Extremes , The Best of Pembroke , James' Summer Ticklist , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Pembroke dreams
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Trevallen Cliff)