3 pitches.
(Description from SMC 2007 The Cairngorms guide). From the belay after pitch 3 of The Sand-Pyper Direct follow the diagonal fault to the point where the Direct leaves it.
1. 15m 5a Move right to gain an awkward crack and follow this up to a poor stance.
2. 5b Continue right across the slab then climb over the overlap to an awkward corner. Follow this to a good stance.
3. Follow cracks and grooves left then right to easier ground.
1. 15m 5a Move right to gain an awkward crack and follow this up to a poor stance.
2. 5b Continue right across the slab then climb over the overlap to an awkward corner. Follow this to a good stance.
3. Follow cracks and grooves left then right to easier ground.
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Route of Interest
The Devil's Alternative
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Hell's Lum)