200m, 7 pitches. UIAA VI+ (the Piola guide gives the crux pitch French 6a/b). Some in situ aid. Harder and more sustained than the Voie Couzy.

J and S Menegaux and J Poullain Aug/1948

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.


ClimberDateStyle
ndraper1 07/Jul AltLd O/S

Took a nice high path through the morraines only to be scuppered on the last one below the nantillons as you can only really approach the M from below- lesson learned, listen to the guidebook! Lost an hour or so there. First two pitches are excellent, ran them together in big boots, belay on top of the pillar. Pitch 3 is superb, sustained and exposed! Broken ground/hanging surf boards/chimneys lead to the crux. We stepped right 3m to awkwardly join the thin crack that leads to a muddy chimney(6a/b part of the Menegaux direct) the actual route goes straight above the belay but was pretty filled with moss at first glance but it is the way to go. From the belay(block) above step left airily through more broken ground, a steep step and then easy ground to the summit of the left M. We had a 60m and rapped mainly 30's, some 10's(pegs/blocks bounce check first) back to the base so in future not essential to carry all your kit. Expect a classic climbing style.

with Flynn
Sam Marks 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with George Newham
Martin Haworth 24/Jul/15 AltLd

Sustained route, crux pitch was very hard and required some peg pulling. 5 hours on the route, topped out just as the storms were starting. Miserable descent in heavy thunder storms, missed last bin, 3.5 hours descending.

NewHam ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
kdo 28/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

We bailed a pitch from the top in lots of mist, abseil was good practise

nmcgreen 28/Jun/14 AltLd
with kdo
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Bristoldave 01/Jul/10 Lead

Used a little aid where I went the wrong way one place. Did the cruxes free.

CarolineH 01/Jul/10 -
with Dave
Tobias at Home 29/May/09 -
with gregoire
tommytuffa 13/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with ollie b
Scotsken ?/Jun/04 -
ian bryant ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with john
Hidden 25/Jul/98 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ?/Aug/96 -
with Jon Scorer
NickJH ?/Jul/96 Lead dog
NickJH ?/Jul/96 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/92 AltLd
Brian Rodgers ??/1992 AltLd
with Martin
Tony Kartawick ?/Aug/91 AltLd

Nice crag climb fitted into a weather window

with James Thomas
Hidden ??/1991 -
Hidden 24/Aug/90 AltLd O/S
mark-abz ?/Aug/88 AltLd
with Andy W
michael burrows 23/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
with steve williams
Hidden 19/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider ??/1986 AltLd
Robmwatt ??/1984 AltLd
with Gaz Morgan
leland stamper 07/Aug/82 AltLd O/S
with Mark V
Hidden ?/Jul/82 AltLd
Falko 05/Aug/80 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route - really enjoyable day out.

with Al W.
Rob Davies ?/Aug/80 Lead

Done in French free style - using fifi hook for rests on pegs but not aid slings. We started late to avoid crowds and got down before dark but missed last telepherique. Walked down through forest, head-torch failed and stumbled into Bar National at 3 a.m.

with Mike Papworth
Hidden 20/Jul/80 2nd
Hidden ??/1980 -
Nigel Bond 23/Aug/78 Lead
with Martin Crosby
uphillnow ?/Jul/77 -

with spuzz Ithink

Steve Woollard 06/Aug/74 Lead
with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker
Bolt Phobia ?/Jul/74 2nd
with Steve Woollard
Paul Clarke ??/1974 AltLd
with Al Deakin
Martin Bennett 21/Jul/72 -
with RA
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Sam Marks, Timothy Miller, Paul Collins
Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
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High TD+
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Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
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Votes cast 3
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
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Lead
Followed
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DNF
Not Set