Duke of York** E1 5b
[Head Jam, 2 kb]An easier route at last. Once a 'solid Northumbrian HVS', now upgraded. Follow the flake to its end and access the ledge on the right for a breather. Drop down off this then get pumping rightwards before you run out of steam - good gear but hard work. Finish up or down Angle Corner. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Head Jam © Nick Meek
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 56 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Balls balls balls I got pumped out before I found the amazing rest for my feet just half a metre away.
David Woods - Lead RP - 12/Oct/14 with Dave Barber

daftendirekt - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Dave

Ross Kirkland - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/14 with David Kirkland

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/14

samwillo - Lead - 12/Mar/14 with Malin Kvist

malinkvist - 2nd dog - 12/Mar/14

Antd - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Dominic Jeff, Liza Wolfson

Sooo pumped at the end of the day!
salix - 2nd - 22/Sep/13 with Jules, Frazer

olekemi - 2nd - 18/Aug/13 with Mark G

vaguely pumpy. plenty of gear small to medium cams. worth placing gear as soom as the traverse is begun to protect the 2nd
danimal88 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Mike Met office


Dom Cordner - Lead dnf - 31/May/13 with Sam Wimpenny

Gave it a go on lead but got super pumped!! Wasn't much easier to second!!!
Adamski1986 - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with Richard Gage

Last route of the day and nothing left. Pumped off on the last move. Punter.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dog - 06/Oct/12 with Patch

utterly spanked, no small cams so only gear was at the top of the starting crack.... massive swing, narrowly avoiding the ground!
The Big Sender - Lead dnf - 03/Aug/12

Gets HVS in the old guide I was using. Desprate for that grade. Pumpy, but awesome climbing, wish I'd have used the heal hook rather than dangling by one arm off that ledge with no gear in yet. 3 star route though!
Lord_ash2000 - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Katy B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

tomB - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Alex Cannon

tlmarjot - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Tom Lawrence, Alex Cannon

andyinglis - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with mal_meech

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead - Feb/12

Fultonius - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11 with Dougie, Ross Barnes

Dougie Harvey - 2nd β - 20/Nov/11 with Alasdair Fulton

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with bert, Dave Warburton

cat22 - 2nd dnf - 16/Oct/11 with Mike

Got so pumped hanging around placing gear, got one move away from the good holds at the end. Should have just gone for it.
CharlieMack - Lead dog - 03/Jul/11 with Pam

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/11

if you want to protect it for the second it is pumpy as hell!
pudding - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/11 with henry hakkinen

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jun/11

pumpy but no real crux, climbed it without mats
Ginger McGrath - Solo O/S - 01/Apr/11 with emily roo

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/11 with Tom Eadington, Robert

mshorter - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with ry

Awesome route.
David Bulley - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Leon Cole

scott gibson - 2010

Steve Crowe - Lead - 2010

graham lawrie - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/09

Took a full height to ground whipper on this! Didnt have my wheatabix and just not fit enough to hang around placing gear!
pete87abs - Lead dnf - 23/Oct/09 with Dave Brigham

j0shwyatt000 - Lead dog - 2009

mzchambers - Lead dog - 03/Dec/08 with Smeggles

Weird fun route, pumpy good gear and loads of heel hocking. The move establishing on the traverse felt very intimidating.
andymoin - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/08 with Sean

took ages to get out of the pod thing.felt weird until established in the crack, straightforward from there on.
Sean Bell - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/08 with Andy

Hidden - 29/Jun/08

Pumpy but lots of good holds and gear. Strange to finish back on the ground!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Viv

dj_brigham05 - Solo O/S - 05/Apr/07 with Chris Thain

whispering nic - Oct/03 with Andy T

Roget - Lead O/S - Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - Lead - Jun/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/98

akamini - Lead - Jul/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Solo - 24/Apr/94

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 28/Aug/89

Quite 'pumpy'and awkward in places; helps if you like jamming (I do). Well protected with cams these days, in 1988 I only had hex's but they sufficed. It's no way E1, especially with cams! Solid HVS 5b though it was 'only' VS 5a in the 1979 guide!
allmag - Lead - 24/Sep/88

Paul Clarke - 1980 with NUMC

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
David Woods, Beano, JonmapDL, Matt Poole, hobblingfool, Callum T, mikecollins, Thesmila69

Voting
Total votes cast 43
hard E20 of 14
E20 of 14
easy E20 of 14
hard E17 of 14
E13 of 14
easy E13 of 14
hard HVS1 of 14
HVS0 of 14
easy HVS0 of 14
hard 5c0 of 14
5c0 of 14
easy 5c0 of 14
hard 5b1 of 14
5b8 of 14
easy 5b5 of 14
hard 5a0 of 14
5a0 of 14
easy 5a0 of 14
3 Stars1 of 15
2 Stars11 of 15
1 Star3 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

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Clean O/S
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dogged
dnf