Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
One for fans of jamming, this has good protection but takes scalps. Start on a very narrow path above a drop.
1) 5a, 13m. The corner-crack to the midway ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 15m. Some slightly bold moves gain a break under the overhang. Make a steep move past a pocket to enter the crack and fight up it to a thread at the upper horizontal break. Climb up left to a final crack (thread) and finish up this. © Rockfax
But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , The Local Ticklist , Routes for MCI
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Mattress | 4 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Threads have been replaced. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Threads have been replaced. |
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Larry Sobieraj | 5 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Broke off the left hand jug at the 1st crux of pitch 2 - never trust limestone!! This section is now slightly harder as cupped hand jams are the only option (at least for my hand size) where before there was a comfy jug. I reckon still 5c though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Broke off the left hand jug at the 1st crux of pitch 2 - never trust limestone!! This section is now slightly harder as cupped hand jams are the only option (at least for my hand size) where before there was a comfy jug. I reckon still 5c though. |
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Graeme Hammond | 9 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: this is high E2 as the votes reflect, but excellent gear and good rests mean it is miles from E3 unless you can't do a couple of HVS style jamming moves. | βeta? | |
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βeta: this is high E2 as the votes reflect, but excellent gear and good rests mean it is miles from E3 unless you can't do a couple of HVS style jamming moves. |
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chris687 | 13 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: The in-situ slings could do with being replaced | βeta? | |
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βeta: The in-situ slings could do with being replaced |
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plant_based_tommo | 9 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: poor rock quality on p1. hard for the grade unless you specialise in strenuous dusty cracks | βeta? | |
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βeta: poor rock quality on p1. hard for the grade unless you specialise in strenuous dusty cracks |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)