UKC

Aka Skagastøltraversen

Start: Turtagrø hotel.

1. Walk up through the stunted birch trees to the NTK hut.

2. From the hut head, east up the hill till it flattens at the col and then ascend the north ridge of Nordre Skagastølstind over boulders for 600 monotonous meters to the top. The last section of ridge to the top can be a little tricky to find the right route.

3. Scramble down and up over Skagastølsnebbet and down to V- Skaret. There is a small slabby step near the top that can be tricky is icy.

4. Climb out of V-Skaret: Pitch 1, is grade 4, climbing directly up until it is possible to climb diagonally left and then back right to a ledge and good belay. The next pitch at grade 2/3 first goes diagonally right on a good ledge until it is possible to climb airily up to the top. An area called Berges Stol.

5. From Berges Stol to Midtre Skagastølstind: Scramble up, with some more defined difficult sections that might under certain conditions require a rope.

6. Midtre Skagastølstind to Halls hammer. Continue to follow the ridge with two sections of exposed down climbing (grade 3) until you reach a spectacular 300m length of the ridge. Follow this narrowness, with one section of creeping with both a leg on each side of the mountain until you reach Halls hammer. A crag that is blocking the way.

7. Halls Hammer to Vetle Skagastølstinden. To avoid climbing Halls hammer direct traverse on the north side over a slab called Pritchard’s Slab (grade 4 – some people us a point of aid on fixed equipment at the start of the slab) and ascend a runnel back onto the ridge. Continue up the ridge with some bouldery sections and a zig-zag traverse on the south side to the top of Vetle Skagastølstind.

8. Vetle Skagastølstind to Mohn Skar (Col between Vetle and Store Skagastølstind) Scramble down the south ridge of Vetle and locate the first of two abseils, continue to the second and continue scrambling down to the col (Mohns Skar). To reverse this section is grade 4+ / 5).

9. Mohn Skar to Store Skagastølstind: Although looking formidable the ridge succumbs with relative ease. Scramble up, with an excursion on the west side before coming back to the ridge and ascending a slabby corner (grade 3) and then continue scrambling up until a short walk, passing a steep step brings you to the top of this majestic mountain.

Ticklists

Ridge Traverses in Jotunheimen

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Voting
High n4
Mid n4
Low n4
High n3
Mid n3
Low n3
High n3+
Mid n3+
Low n3+
High n2
Mid n2
Low n2
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Andrews renne

Grade: n3+ ***
(Store Skagastølstind)

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