Devon > Daddyhole Main Cliff >
 
Last Exit to Torquay** HVS 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Gates of Eden
 
Suicide Blonde >>
[Richy's ready, 2 kb]The dominating central corner in its entirety is a 'must do'. Start below the corner as for Gates of Eden.. 1) 5a, 20m. Pitch 1 of Gates of Eden.. 2) 5b, 21m. Move up the corner to the first of two overhanging sections. Pass the first with difficulty and the second via some useful holds on the sheer, right-hand wall of the corner. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Richy's ready © Motown
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 104 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

I took the first pitch, moves are ok gear is really good but man what an intimidating bit of climbing :-) 3 stars!!
Felix Ottey - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/13

ian d f - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/13 with Pete H

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Bruce Woodley

Pumpy main pitch! Crux is tough to read
francois - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Chawn

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Kirsty Kerr

Got pumped on 5b overhang and sat in. Gutted. Really nice route though - thoroughly enjoyed it. Want to go back and do it clean now!
BelayBunney - Lead dog - 29/Jun/13 with Catherine

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/13

Led 2nd pitch
gripped01 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Jim Jarvis

Failed to find any worthy pro for the crux bulge. Had my heel at head height at one point thinking this isn't what HVS usually feel like. Surely E1.
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Preston Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

Brilliant climb. Immaculate rock with much better moves than Gates.
Jack J Keogan - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/13 with Ewan Davies

So much fun. Led in one pitch on doubles, no problem with rope drag. 1st overhang harder than 2nd.
ewanthomson - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/13 with Jack J Keogan

Nick Biven - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/12

Mike lead first pitch of Gargantua then belayed before crux of Gates. Made a mess of first overhang by missing crucial 'undercling'. All went fine once I located the big hold in front of my face...
Motown - AltLd dog - 20/Oct/12 with Mike

Awesome - Best HVS on Limestone?
wolverine - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/12 with Thunderthighsontheloose

Kevster - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12

Second pitch only didn't bother to do the first pitch again.
JamesRich - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Mark Davies, Rob stanfield

Epic and Butch!
Stanners - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with James Rich, Mark Davis

P1, not ready to lead P2 yet.
althesin - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/12 with Reds, schristophersmith

Reds - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/12 with Althesin, schristophersmith

schristophersmith - 2nd dog - 21/Sep/12 with silas feaver, Ian Redfern

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12

sweaty and polished.
Dave Rumney - Lead - 01/Sep/12 with Tanya Milner

katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with bobby gilbert

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd - 04/May/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/May/12

a great route! lead it in one long pitch. better than the other HVS and much worthier of the grade. nice moves towards the top using the hand rail on the right-hand wall.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Kit Perry

Pumpy to the max. Strenuous and bold moves!
Chris Perry - 2nd - 31/Mar/12 with Matt Rust

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Rozzy

a shiny new peg(large lost arrow) has been placed by someone a bit lower than you would normally belay at the end of the first pitch.also there is a good condition in situ wire higher up.
misterb - Lead rpt - 25/Mar/12 with charlie

pete87abs - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Rosie Crossley

charlie202 - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/12 with Nick B

i think i need to work on my endurance abit
JackHatton - Lead dog - 12/Feb/12 with kye brooks

JevonJennings - AltLd - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2012

burto - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with hertha

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with CarolineH

Great 2nd pitch on big holds.
domskezz - Lead - 23/Sep/11 with Jamma

BDA - changed - AltLd - Sep/11 with Mark Meardon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/11

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/11 with tom mason

Motown - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Richy

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/11

Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 23/May/11 with Burnsie

Ross Barnes - AltLd - 23/May/11 with Mal

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 23/May/11 with Jim Higgins

jameshiggins - 2nd - 23/May/11 with Neil Adams

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 23/May/11 with Carol

Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Shona

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 22/May/11 with Tiff

led p1
TiffTiff - AltLd O/S - 22/May/11 with Sophie

chris ebbutt - AltLd - 03/May/11 with Dave R.

Okecroak - 2nd - 03/May/11 with C. Ebbutt

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Apr/11

brynmays - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11

brynmays - 2nd rpt - 03/Apr/11

Davebryant - AltLd O/S - Apr/11 with Bryn Mays, Tom Brown

Shona H - 2nd - 2011 with Ceri Hutchinson

Stunningly unfit compared to when I led it!
AJH - 2nd dog - 16/Oct/10 with Rob

P1 & P3 As onsight as it was going to be having just climbed Gates Of Eden which shared the first pitch
andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with J

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/10

Toby Dunn - Lead - 24/Jul/10 with Andy Reeve

James Mitchelmore - Lead RP - 13/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2010

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/09 with Bish

good value for hvs
misterb - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/09 with sim

nopants - AltLd - 2009 with Thom

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/08 with anna barnes

nopants - AltLd - 2008 with Mike

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - Oct/07

Justin T - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/07 with Wifey

alaan - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/07 with Rich

richardr - Lead O/S - Jul/07

Justin T - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/07 with Clara

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/May/07

P2
Justin T - AltLd rpt - 25/May/07 with Wifey & Martin

Fell on crux the week before, then led clean
AJH - Lead RP - 22/Apr/07 with Crispin

Justin T - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/07

Rested on rope trying to remove gear.
Justin T - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/07 with Crispin

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 23/May/04 with Ann Fooks, Dave Fooks

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Apr/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/01

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Mickdenali - Lead O/S - Aug/99 with Mark Harvey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/92

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/90

ecowaller - 1990

shark - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/85 with Minky

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/84

mark-abz - 2nd - 29/Oct/80 with Jerry C

Hidden - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Phil79, Mr Tickle, Cheese Monkey, Master Chief, Hidden, Alan100, twright180, pedro.silva, northnorthnorth

Voting
Total votes cast 85
hard E10 of 29
E11 of 29
easy E10 of 29
hard HVS6 of 29
HVS22 of 29
easy HVS0 of 29
hard VS0 of 29
VS0 of 29
easy VS0 of 29
hard 5c0 of 29
5c0 of 29
easy 5c1 of 29
hard 5b3 of 29
5b22 of 29
easy 5b2 of 29
hard 5a1 of 29
5a0 of 29
easy 5a0 of 29
3 Stars13 of 27
2 Stars14 of 27
1 Star0 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
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Style of ascent

Lead40 of 104 (38.5%)
Followed25 of 104 (24.0%)
Alt Leads34 of 104 (32.7%)
Unknown5 of 104 (4.8%)

'Climbed'27 of 104 (26.0%)
clean O/S57 of 104 (54.8%)
clean rpt8 of 104 (7.7%)
clean RP2 of 104 (1.9%)
dogged10 of 104 (9.6%)