Rockfax Description
Pleasant, popular and polished climbing with three good pitches. Start below a small broken rib at 4m, just right of Clarion.
1) 4b, 22m. Climb the broken pillar to good gear in the break at the first set of overhangs. Step over the overhang onto a large, slick foothold and move up the short slab to the base of a narrow corner. Follow the corner to a bulging wall above and devise an exit right to a tree belay.
2) 4b, 10m. Move left and up to a football sized hold. Step left and pull on to a slab. Traverse left to a small tree and nut belays.
3) 4a, 20m. Finish up the wide rounded crack of Clarion's second pitch. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, South West Climbs for a Northerner, Avon sub-VSes, HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014, Avon gorge road to ruins HVS.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
PEccleston 11/Oct AltLd
tim123487 11/Oct AltLd
Dan guy
climbEdclimb 03/Oct AltLd O/S
Emma Smith, Sam Wainwright
Samuel Wainwright 03/Oct AltLd O/S
Edward Tonkin, Emma Smith
Hidden 03/Oct 2nd O/S
lcullum7 28/Sep AltLd O/S
adawson 25/Sep 2nd O/S
Jono Hawkins, Ashley King
Hidden 21/Sep Lead
Hidden 21/Sep 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep Lead O/S
Gustav 20/Sep 2nd rpt

1st pitch of sinister into 2nd pitch of Dexter- best bits of both routes!

Hidden 15/Sep Lead O/S
humptydumpty 12/Sep Lead O/S

Joined P2 & P3.

Hidden 04/Sep AltLd O/S
Trevers 27/Aug AltLd rpt

Led the first two pitches (seconded previously). Straightforward but pleasant climbing, bit of hassle with ropes on the traverse.

Rachael, BStar
BStar 27/Aug AltLd rpt
Rachael88 27/Aug 2nd

Nice climb, third pitch made more fun by all the mud!

my 22/Aug AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3

Hidden 22/Aug AltLd O/S
maresia 12/Aug Lead O/S
Phil Harris
Lukem6 09/Aug 2nd O/S
Jenny Monkey 09/Aug Lead
RedFox 02/Aug AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3.

Gustav 30/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul AltLd
Hidden 28/Jul AltLd rpt
eduardo 25/Jul Lead O/S
Lmt 25/Jul -
Jeremy Wilton 19/Jul AltLd O/S

Alternate leads - nice climb - the 'porthole' on pitch 2 needs a little thinking about - good fun.

Mark Bathe
BoHeMlo 19/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul Lead rpt
67hours 04/Jul AltLd O/S

P1, Emily led the other two

Emilyford, Oweeeen
Lizziemay 03/Jul 2nd O/S
badgerjockey 02/Jul Lead O/S
ali.scott 02/Jul AltLd rpt
Will A
WillAndrew 02/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun Lead rpt
Adam Hill 26/Jun Lead

Lead P1 and 2 together then quickly up P3

daveb84 24/Jun AltLd O/S
bonoid 16/Jun AltLd
jammy4536 16/Jun Solo rpt
JGriffiths 08/Jun AltLd

Lead short second pitch (traverse).

thompsonjr21 08/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch. Enjoyed 1st pitch, 3rd pitch didnt really feel like climbing, may have gone too far right.

BStar 15/May AltLd

P1 and P2

Trevers 15/May AltLd β

Led the final pitch up to Lunchtime Ledge

Hidden 11/May Lead
gobbledigook 02/May AltLd O/S

lead P2

Hidden 30/Apr AltLd
danieleaston 30/Apr Lead O/S
Ruth 23/Apr AltLd O/S
Paul Sheridan
DoMakeSayThink 22/Apr Lead O/S

Had to lower Martin off at start of pitch 3 due to a shoulder injury, which was unfortunate. Continued the rest with Alasdair.

m_andersson 22/Apr AltLd dnf

Lead the 2nd pitch but then, unfortunately, had to be lowered down due to a shoulder injury.

hoggy90 18/Apr Lead O/S

Nice route

will_benfold 18/Apr AltLd O/S

Led P2

BALD EAGLE 15/Apr Lead
Pete Shone, Dawn Anderson
Fatclimber 12/Apr AltLd O/S

P2. Thought the route was easy for the grade.

Deako 12/Apr AltLd
Larey 10/Apr AltLd O/S
BStar 07/Apr Lead

First pitch has a 'interesting' move, lovely climb though, worth 2 stars. First after work climb of the year

Rachael88 07/Apr 2nd

Great first evening climb of the year. Certainly had me on my toes at the top of the first pitch!

Joshthomas 06/Apr AltLd O/S
ema 06/Apr AltLd
Richardlake 05/Apr AltLd β
will_lake 05/Apr AltLd β
Tom Last 26/Mar AltLd O/S

Good route. Led pitches 1&3.

Lachlan Bucknall
ali.scott 18/Mar AltLd O/S

tom led first and second pitches, I led third

JamesRich 14/Mar AltLd rpt
duncanedgley 04/Mar Lead

Great first HS lead

Ash Hall
Hidden 07/Feb Lead O/S
Maddi Stewart ?/Feb AltLd

2nd pitch of 3, Didnt place enough gear - only placed 2 bits of gear 1 fell out.

Hidden ??/2015 -
steve_gibbs 08/Dec/14 Lead rpt
Sunny Shah
s1362083 08/Dec/14 2nd
csumner28 03/Dec/14 2nd O/S

Bitterly cold, and mostly done in the dark.

thom_jenkinson 03/Dec/14 Lead
Hidden 01/Nov/14 AltLd
crater 01/Nov/14 AltLd

lead 1+3

duncanedgley 30/Oct/14 2nd

in the dark!

thom_jenkinson 30/Oct/14 Lead rpt

First proper night-time ascent of anything. Very fun adventure bivvying on Lunchtime Ledge.

Hidden 28/Oct/14 AltLd
Hidden 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
mjcostain 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S

First lead

catty_9 17/Sep/14 Lead
Angrypenguin 17/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Richard L 14/Sep/14 Lead dnf

backed off - lack of protection

Andy Manthorpe 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Warm up route with Bernard.

hairy51 10/Sep/14 AltLd β
Ben Axford
DavidWilby 07/Sep/14 2nd
Nathan Chrismas 07/Sep/14 2nd
BStar 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P2 and P3

Dan Carron
Hidden 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
clams ?/Sep/14 Lead
Benjaminblanc ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
CatMc ?/Sep/14 2nd
Lucy, clams
Hidden ?/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Steve Bartle 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Rob Morgan 26/Jul/14 AltLd

Led second pitch (proper).

Rob Morgan 24/Jul/14 Lead

First HS lead. Went a bit off route on the second pitch (a bit onto Dexter) - but regained it for the wide crack.

jon bradley 11/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
Huw Howells
Alex Winter 04/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
AndyRogers 02/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Loubylou 02/Jul/14 -
Simon Reynolds
Nathan Chrismas 22/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Did the first pitch then had a moment attempting to gain the slab after the 'football'. Had a chat and abseiled off the tree.

DavidWilby 22/Jun/14 2nd dnf
Hidden 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead β
sheelba 12/Jun/14 AltLd
Tom F Harding 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

1&2 (together)

hp.hunt 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Led first pitch, Sam led second

Sam Hooper
thom_jenkinson 03/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Led middle pitch/move

George.Rowland 03/Jun/14 AltLd

Pitch 1 and 3 . Difficult parts have good gear.

Dave Ing 20/May/14 Lead rpt

P1 and P2, then abbed off before dark

Joe Kelly
Rebs 14/May/14 AltLd O/S
thom_jenkinson 14/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 with the famous 'football sized hold' - fantastic move but a very short pitch

danbirkby 09/May/14 AltLd


Hidden 04/May/14 Lead
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Echna 03/May/14 2nd O/S
philmcf ?/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
bigbobbyking 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Gary Connor
andrea83 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Thought this was 1 star max, ok I guess. Lead 1st pitch, Dan lead the second two in one.

Dan from Bristol, Hamish
Hamish777 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Dan Stickland, Andrea
Hidden 05/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
Psych ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S
jammy4536 24/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

sweet first pitch. Very grippy now actually. led 2nd/3rd pitch in one, and interesting traverse to the tree.

RichyBOYY 24/Feb/14 AltLd

Lead P1 - fun climb - need to be more confident in my placements

James Jackson ??/2014 -
adam6509 ??/2014 2nd
will bugden
bencaley 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Pippa Churcher 30/Nov/13 2nd
laurashaw 19/Nov/13 Lead β
Pippa Churcher 19/Nov/13 2nd
avictimoftheDrpsycho 10/Oct/13 Solo O/S
Curly Rich 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S


GMC Peter Neden
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 16/Sep/13 Lead O/S

I felt P1 was harder. Pretty poorly protected. VS? Loz's first proper trad multi-pitch in 5 years!

Loz K
Neil Gay 01/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
ali macphee 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
BenBird 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P3 as one.

Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
George Frisby 14/Aug/13 Lead β
steve_gibbs 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
zcsharp 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
aelaeks 28/Jul/13 2nd

We ran out of rope so had to start moving together.

mikedevcole 18/Jul/13 AltLd

James C link P1 and P2 together. I led pitch 3.

katherinesydney 05/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

(P1) a bit of polish nudges up the psychological grade slightly

mike bath
Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
jacksonm1 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Stanners 20/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

mega muggy today but still enjoyable climbing

Alex Rhodes
Alex_RhodesUK 20/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
stujamac 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Mitchell Kane, Stephen Downward
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
R_W_M 01/Jun/13 AltLd
Steve C
anthonylewis 27/May/13 2nd O/S
pete ross
BeccaSnowden 27/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch as one long pitch (up to lunchtime ledge). Very good quality climbing.

Hidden 27/May/13 AltLd O/S
Cheese Monkey 21/May/13 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 17/May/13 AltLd
James Pomeroy
Poco Loco 17/May/13 AltLd rpt

Led p1, p3. Climbed wall to right of runnel on p3.

seanprendiville 12/May/13 2nd

Seconded 1st pitch. Completed remainder via second pitch of Dexter.

laurence_falconer 30/Apr/13 -

Abbed off lunchtime ledge

laurashaw 30/Apr/13 -
Kemics 27/Apr/13 Lead rpt

I really like this climb, awesome features (for avon). Worth running first two pitches together

tc7118 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 AltLd
gingernick 03/Mar/13 AltLd
laurence_falconer 27/Feb/13 Lead
Ben Caley
bencaley 27/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Eagertom 22/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Lovely move on the second pitch gets this route the ** it deserves.

laurence_falconer 22/Feb/13 Lead

Great climb with some excelent moves. Limited but very good protection. Was my first HS lead

Bobling 16/Feb/13 Lead

The horror! Pitch one was a pleasure, even the "frightening move up onto polished footholds". Pitch two was damp - half the holds above the porthole were sopping (i.e all of them bigger than a matchstick) and this move felt 5a! Pitch 3 was abysmal a muddy, wet slipfest. I'd done it as the top out from Clarion before and remembered a 4a (if that) bimble. This time round I backed off, leaving gear in the (sopping) crack below the chimney, later retrieved by abseil. Ugh.

Hidden 02/Feb/13 Lead rpt
Pleb 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Stuart William 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Me: P1 & P3 Alex: P2

steve_gibbs ??/2013 Lead O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
Patrickmartin99 ?/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Luke Davies 29/Sep/12 Lead
panda70 25/Sep/12 Lead

Light drizzle should have put us off at the start but we cracked on in true british grit, finishing soaked but happy. Very slippy

Tom Court
Mayaculpa 17/Sep/12 2nd dnf

Abandoned at second belay (rain)

John Volanthen
RamblingRyan 15/Sep/12 Lead

Lead all 3 pitches

Emily, Col
Hidden 11/Sep/12 2nd
Slick 11/Sep/12 Lead

Still polished!

Egons Issy 11/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
PaulWatson 28/Aug/12 Lead β

Not the best effort I have ever made, went off course on pitch 2 a bit

steve-grigg 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
pffft 09/Aug/12 Lead rpt

Sinister first pitch, Dexter Second.

Jojo Mills
Urgles 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

P1 only

Mark Salter 05/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Chris Shorrock
pheotleyr 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S

did a different 2nd pitch (or actually rather a different 3rd pitch) on the slab left of sinister, good VS 4c with reasonable protection in a good crack half way up

jameslam ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
squicky 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Polished and horrible. Tried to do it in one pitch but got into a lot of trouble with rope getting tangled in bushes so best to do it in two.

Hidden 19/Jun/12 AltLd
efrance24234 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
HarryB 01/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
localboy 29/May/12 AltLd rpt

p1 me, p2/3 Simon.

DOVEY 27/May/12 -


Jake.P+ Billie
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead rpt
Kyle87 16/May/12 Lead O/S
tobydunford 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Sarah Wysling
Nick Russell 06/May/12 AltLd rpt

Only led the short second pitch

Katherine Ross 06/May/12 AltLd rpt
Dean177 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Monk 08/Apr/12 AltLd rpt


Luke Vincent
pffft 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Some nice climbing.

flyinfrenchy 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
ben.richards 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
mikeydee135 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

due to "navigational errors" i traversed and did the crux of Clarion (left then up instead of up then left) as the second pitch, makes for an interesting variant.

Kemics 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Best weekend of the year weather wise (first day after the clocks went forward. Horrendous sandbag for Jim's first ever climb, but he made it! Really great route, interesting features and plenty of protection.

pheotleyr 10/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Ragingpossum 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Fun little number and easy to protect. Alot nicer than Dexter.

harry kingston
Dave Ing 10/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

P1 & P2

Ed Babs 06/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

With a traverse to the start of pink wall direct

Marti999 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S
martin clarke 19/Feb/12 AltLd
Frostie 19/Feb/12 AltLd
Martin Clarke
kyle 18/Feb/12 Lead O/S


Nick Russell 08/Feb/12 Lead O/S
matsav 08/Feb/12 2nd O/S
LouiseP 01/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 & 3

R_W_M 01/Feb/12 2nd rpt

led the little traverse that is pitch 2 in order to minimise rope faff

kelliroberts3 22/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
stafford101 07/Dec/11 Lead rpt
Ragingpossum 07/Dec/11 2nd

Easy climb, with finish in the dark. Polished footholds makes the crux of the first pitch interesting.

Hidden 15/Nov/11 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Nov/11 Lead
djking1983 14/Nov/11 2nd
Katherine Ross 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Nice, balancy climbing. Not as polished as I was expecting from the guidebook.

Becky H 15/Sep/11 2nd O/S
BethM 29/Aug/11 AltLd
bigdrew 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
BALD EAGLE 20/Aug/11 Lead
Rob Horler
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead dnf
jas128 16/Aug/11 2nd β

did p.1 of this and then continued on dexter as had already done the top section of sinister whilst doing clarion. lovely mashup of the 2 routes and worked really well

Hidden 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
bonelessivar 15/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
groliver26 01/Aug/11 2nd
jon_ridley 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Absolutely hated this with a passion - I wonder if I messed up the line big time? Boring, vegetated, polished, gentle gradient, rubbish top-out, and generally irritating. Uninspiring crux.

Kate Edhouse 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Lead 1st pitch, also lead P2+3 together, lovely route!

luckyluke 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Seconded until lead final pitch. Off to the right after lunchtime ledge.

andy dunn 14/Jul/11 AltLd rpt


joeurwin 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Neil Gay
Neil Gay 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
JamesRich 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

jack did P.1 & 2, I did p.3. really nice evening especially as the sun came out

Quarryboy 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led the first two pitches, good climbing and good gear. You just need to trust your feet on some bits.

Pete Rigby 30/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Didymus 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S

p1 only; ran out of time

Gregthebadger 06/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/11 2nd
BB1 02/Jun/11 AltLd

It's getting a little slippery in places.

P Ross
Dave Ing 15/May/11 Lead O/S

Roped solo, done as one long pitch by tying two ropes together.

Joby 14/May/11 Lead dnf

started raining halfway through the second pitch so backed off, fine climbing til then though

Alice Fuller
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Stanners 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

great climb, definitely worth its 2 stars! Particularly enjoyed figuring out the tiny second pitch.

Martin Stanfield
Stanley 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Really nice climb, and way better views than I was expecting nearer the top. Crucial move on the second pich quite hard to find.

BB1 14/Apr/11 2nd
P Ross
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Quirina 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
HarryB 23/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Ali P1+3 me P2

Feeling bold 13/Mar/11 2nd rpt

3rd time round seemed a lot harder. Deciding how to use the pocket on 2nd pitch took a good 5 mins. Left some gear in, my lead not impressed but retrieved later.

Barnstaple Neil
kyle 16/Feb/11 2nd
j miller 08/Feb/11 Lead O/S

brilliant route, with some of the best bomber placements imaginable, a pity the rock was quite wet below the small overhang. Only downfall is just before the first anchor point a large hold came off missing dean by about a ft at most, thankfully my frantic scream of below was heard. Brilliant fun with a 20kg haul bag attached to you.

mikey thompson, dean merchant
Mikey1988 08/Feb/11 -
31770 ??/2011 -
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
pyro2312 25/Sep/10 2nd
John M
Hidden 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
localboy 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S
simonf 27/Jul/10 2nd
crossdressingrodney 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
sweenyt 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/10 Lead rpt
Tom Brierley Gore 17/May/10 2nd O/S
Dan_Staff 15/May/10 2nd O/S

1st pitch only.

James Turner
andy dunn 04/May/10 Lead O/S

nice climbing

Rob U
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead rpt
sweenyt 28/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

P1+2 together

bsavage 22/Apr/10 Lead rpt

1st pitch only. then 2nd pitch of dexter to lunch time ledge. V nice climb

Felicia Line
gingergeorge 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
R_W_M 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Charlie, Chris
stafford101 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Clay C 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd rpt
Darrell Read 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Jacob Gaudoin, Ian Johnson
James_86 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Rosea Day ?/Mar/10 Lead rpt
richardadventurecafe 30/Jan/10 Lead
Neil Sperrings
Hidden 30/Jan/10 2nd O/S
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Fred_Richard ??/2010 Lead
Chris Sansum 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
tommoulds 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S

seconded first pitch, lead the second.

mark schramm 10/Oct/09 Lead

nice warm up - ballsed up the rope work!!

tommoulds 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
mullermn 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Nice climb, not as scary as Dexter

Kylie 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
aipattison 09/Sep/09 Lead rpt

P1 followed by P2 of Dexter

Yetiyare 09/Sep/09 2nd O/S
ron244 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Nice first pitch, plenty of gear if you look around. Second pitch nice and third pitch short of gear but bombproof before grove.

Mike Connor, Peter Bird
mpc 18/Aug/09 2nd
TimPerkin 16/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Richard Harris
bsavage 13/Jul/09 AltLd rpt

odd finish after crux on final pitch leader went left out of the groove and direct up the slab to the left hand corner of lunch time ledge. An interesting finish with v little gear :P

Richard Craddock
jez_springall 21/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Rich Paterson
Hidden 11/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Poco Loco 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Warm sunny evening in the gorge after work. Really nice climb. The first pitch is the crux and quite bold, I didn't find many gear placements...

James Gray
aipattison 07/May/09 Lead O/S

Led in 'mildly moist' conditions. In hindsight would have run P1&2 together. Very nice climb.

catemuir 07/May/09 2nd
Feeling bold 29/Apr/09 2nd rpt

Rpt, just the first 2 pitches and then ab'd off to do clarion.

Cheddar John
Hidden 29/Apr/09 Lead
PaulWatson 28/Apr/09 Lead O/S

3rd Pitch follow on from Clarion. It was gratifying to do this in the dry at last. Moving out of the chimney (where I came off in the rain) still prevented the greatest challange. Did the botonists variation at the end!

Dan, Muny
thomasadixon 08/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Monk 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Matt Hartgrove
Steven Andrews 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

led first pitch and then abed off

Paula Worth
PaulWatson 19/Mar/09 2nd O/S

1st pitch only, followed by Dexter 2nd Pitch all done in one go, saved time but took us to the limit of the rope.

ClareR 17/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Went after work. I led first puitch - bot very scared! Not tht much gear and some delicate moves. Livi started second pictch but retreated as it got dark.

Kenemo ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
climbingxcat ??/2009 -
Spacetourist ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/08 Lead
EmmanuelF 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S

all pitches lead. nice. Could probably do the second and third together by running out the traverse.

Protheroe 29/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Eleri Dawson
Hidden 29/Sep/08 AltLd rpt
PaulWatson 12/Aug/08 AltLd dog

heavy shower as I followed second pitch, which was misnavigated by Dan, so it was a wet VS Clarion as opposed to the dry HS we had hoped for. Rather unconventional lead on third (really chucking down now), squirming up the ginnal where positive holds could be found, Small fall on first effort, so very glad I just bought that new No 2 cam. Ended up pushing with right foot really high to finally emerge. First wet climb, rough wet holds better that shiney dry ones mithinks.

Ewan Richards 30/Jul/08 Lead

First Gorge HS. Went slightly of route..

Hidden 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
lizannday ?/Jun/08 2nd
Neil Furgeson
Hidden 23/May/08 2nd O/S
Feeling bold 14/May/08 2nd O/S

As a 2nd I can see reason for the 3pitches. Fun climb, bit of polish, some nice moves and not that hard.

django 14/May/08 Lead O/S
brady 11/May/08 Lead O/S
bsavage 07/May/08 Lead O/S

lead the correct route. very nice climb on a beautiful day

CarolineH 24/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Theeni 09/Mar/08 Lead O/S

RMAS with novice

nicki_2712 01/Mar/08 2nd
lukehodson 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
rh5980 27/Feb/08 Lead O/S
bsavage 27/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Alternate route taken (this is closest route we could find). Climbed over bulge just before the LH traverse. Harder than grade in guide book.

Al Franks 16/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Emily Reynolds
Alasdair88 16/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd and 3rd pitch

Emily Reynolds
scorpia97 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Hidden 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
philkerswell 13/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 - 45m HS - Neil leads polished start, and a trickymove over the bulge , tho this can be avoided by using slightly harder, but grippy moves around. Pitch 2 - 18m 4A - Phil leads one move wonder... standing in the crack, you reach up over the NO holds. Need to edge left til left hand in shoulder high crack, work left foot up before getting right up into hole at thigh level, then levering up. lots of pressing down. After that a walk. Pitch 3 - 9m 4B - Phil leads Arghhh... horrible polished chimney-type area part way up with crap protection (take some CAMS next time!!) .. used body jamming and got scared...but was later advised by all-knowing Neil I should have bridged out wider and used feet. If only I looked more closely first!

Hidden 13/Sep/07 AltLd rpt
Hidden 06/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Lead second (extremely short) pitch. Soft for HS, especially considering it's Avon.

Matt Frank
Mark Walter 19/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Eccentric 19/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Just the little technical second pitch, nice little climb.

pishmishy 10/Aug/07 2nd O/S

Seconded first pitch, to link with second pitch of Dexter. Enjoyable moves up to the first horizontal crack which proved interesting.

No-chalk Nailer ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Went off-route but got back on. Went through a very sinister thorn bush....ouch

Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/07 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 05/May/07 AltLd O/S

Went way off route via lots of dirt/shrubbery and not much in the way of pro. Felt like E1 4c.

Tony Seale
CarolineH 02/May/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 -
sea_lene ??/2007 -
flatcap 15/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

A nice easy start to the day. Ian led the first two pitches (4a,4b) and I led the third pitch (4a).

Zoomer 14/Oct/06 Lead
Jules 210681 14/Oct/06 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 -
deanster01 28/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Goog climb, first pitch of main interest, secound has polished move but of no difficulty. Easy finish through chimney, more like scrambling

Laurie Neale
Jethro ?/Jul/06 AltLd
Tom Bouquet
furry 12/May/06 Lead O/S
timstyles ?/May/06 Lead O/S

Lead 3rd pitch after seconding Clarion

Hidden 30/Apr/06 AltLd
Hidden 12/Apr/06 Lead O/S
phsharpy 02/Mar/06 Solo O/S
Bethan Davies
Hidden 29/Jan/06 -
Norman_P_W 29/Jan/06 -
Shezzer 07/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Hardest lead yet, quite enjoyable too.

Simon Brown, James Parrot
beardy mike ??/2006 Solo
Bern ??/2006 -
Sean Bell ??/2006 AltLd O/S
rob, matt
John Lisle ??/2006 -
thomasadixon ??/2006 2nd O/S

Looking back on it this was *not* Sinister, totally off route, from start to finish.

Bristoldave ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/2006 -
Ivster ??/2006 -
Slick ??/2006 -
Hidden 23/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
pattisonr ?/Jul/05 -
Bux ?/May/05 Lead rpt
gripped01 ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Dan Graves
mwh 16/Jan/05 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
joe_alexander ??/2005 Lead
mol 20/Oct/04 Lead
KarlH 17/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Tom Hales
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd
Fat Tim 01/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Richard Hall ??/2004 Solo

First led IH up it, prob 2003/4 or 5. Have soloed all pitches many times since (starting from about 2007).

Ian Hawkins
JamieAyres ?/Oct/03 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
five ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
Whealiebob 05/Jul/03 AltLd
Ste and Chris
Digger 17/Jun/03 Lead O/S
James Latham
7ames ??/2003 Lead
MikeC59 23/Jun/02 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/02 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 08/May/02 Lead
Judith Wildman
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
Paz ??/2002 AltLd
IceMonkey1982 ??/2002 -
Hidden 16/Sep/01 Lead
Andrew1 29/May/01 TR
Martin Carter
gimmer ??/2001 -
CurlyStevo ??/2001 AltLd
MartinN 06/May/00 2nd O/S
jim_randell 29/Apr/00 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Mar/00 2nd O/S
John Southworth 23/Jan/00 AltLd O/S
Vicky Munn
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Mickdenali ??/2000 Lead O/S
Keith Biddle
alan moore ??/2000 -
Hidden 10/Oct/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/98 Lead
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/98 Lead
jim_randell 08/Jul/97 AltLd rpt
DavidR 31/Mar/97 Lead O/S
John Marston
chrisrogers ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Dave ?
WRMusall 05/May/96 2nd
Rick Stanley
colin milton 05/Apr/96 AltLd
eric milton
pezzerrr ??/1996 Lead O/S
jim_randell 27/Apr/95 Lead rpt
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
ColdAndWet ??/1995 Lead
Tom Vivian 29/Nov/94 AltLd
chris sm 19/Nov/94 AltLd O/S
Martin Sime
jim_randell 19/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
AndySL 24/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
Joff, Mark
leland stamper ??/1990 -
Richard Weller 28/Jul/89 AltLd
john sanders
AndyB123 ??/1989 AltLd
Andy E
Tony Buckley ?/Apr/88 Lead
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
sniffer ??/1988 Lead
Paul Thomas
mikej 08/Jul/87 AltLd
Pete Rowbottom
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/85 Lead
Pete Nugent 02/Feb/85 Lead β


Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
JamieAyres ?/Jul/84 Lead O/S
Phil Windall
charlesmfrench 05/Apr/84 Solo O/S
wynaptomos ?/Nov/83 Lead O/S
andy tetsill ?/Jun/83 Lead
Manchester Poly
andy gittins ??/1983 -
andy gittins ??/1983 -
John Marsland ?/Jun/82 Lead
Karen Creek
Hidden ?/Aug/81 Solo O/S
Nigel Coe 28/Jun/81 -
John Walmsley
stp 05/Apr/81 Lead O/S

First day of lead climbing. Soloed 19/7/81.

leland stamper ??/1980 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 25/Nov/79 Lead

In the rain.

Jackie Coe
Mike C 24/Nov/79 AltLd
Walter Phipps
Nigel Coe 30/Sep/79 -
Steve Portnoi
Hidden ??/1979 -
Hidden 05/Jun/76 2nd O/S
Mark Kemball 11/May/75 Lead
Nigel Bond 21/Jul/74 Lead
Pete Dainty
Nigel Bond 21/Jul/74 Lead
Pete Dainty
tapley 03/Mar/74 Lead
Alison Tapley
Andy Chubb ??/1974 -
Phil Jardine
Bolt Phobia 23/Sep/73 -
Hidden ??/1973 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1970 2nd
Hidden ??/1969 2nd
Hidden ??/1965 AltLd
oldmanofmow 10/Oct/57 Lead O/S

Annette Hudson and I on a RUMC meet. Alt leads

High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 55
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set