Pleasant, popular and polished climbing with three good pitches. Start below a small broken rib at 4m, just right of Clarion.1) 4b, 22m. Climb the broken pillar to good gear in the break at the first set of overhangs. Step over the overhang onto a large, slick foothold and move up the short slab to the base of a narrow corner. Follow the corner to a bulging wall above and devise an exit right to a tree belay.2) 4b, 10m. Move left and up to a football sized hold. Step left and pull on to a slab. Traverse left to a small tree and nut belays.3) 4a, 20m. Finish up the wide rounded crack of Clarion's second pitch. © Rockfax
Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, South West Climbs for a Northerner, Avon sub-VSes, HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014, Avon gorge road to ruins HVS.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Emma Smith, Sam Wainwright
|Samuel Wainwright||03/Oct||AltLd O/S||
Edward Tonkin, Emma Smith
Jono Hawkins, Ashley King
1st pitch of sinister into 2nd pitch of Dexter- best bits of both routes!
Joined P2 & P3.
Led the first two pitches (seconded previously). Straightforward but pleasant climbing, bit of hassle with ropes on the traverse.
Nice climb, third pitch made more fun by all the mud!
Led P1 & P3
Led P1 and P3.
|Jeremy Wilton||19/Jul||AltLd O/S||
Alternate leads - nice climb - the 'porthole' on pitch 2 needs a little thinking about - good fun.
P1, Emily led the other two
Lead P1 and 2 together then quickly up P3
Lead short second pitch (traverse).
Lead 1st and 3rd pitch. Enjoyed 1st pitch, 3rd pitch didnt really feel like climbing, may have gone too far right.
P1 and P2
Led the final pitch up to Lunchtime Ledge
Had to lower Martin off at start of pitch 3 due to a shoulder injury, which was unfortunate. Continued the rest with Alasdair.
Lead the 2nd pitch but then, unfortunately, had to be lowered down due to a shoulder injury.
Pete Shone, Dawn Anderson
P2. Thought the route was easy for the grade.
First pitch has a 'interesting' move, lovely climb though, worth 2 stars. First after work climb of the year
Great first evening climb of the year. Certainly had me on my toes at the top of the first pitch!
|Tom Last||26/Mar||AltLd O/S||
Good route. Led pitches 1&3.
tom led first and second pitches, I led third
Great first HS lead
2nd pitch of 3, Didnt place enough gear - only placed 2 bits of gear 1 fell out.
Bitterly cold, and mostly done in the dark.
in the dark!
First proper night-time ascent of anything. Very fun adventure bivvying on Lunchtime Ledge.
|Richard L||14/Sep/14||Lead dnf||
backed off - lack of protection
|Andy Manthorpe||14/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
Warm up route with Bernard.
P2 and P3
|Steve Bartle||26/Jul/14||AltLd O/S|
Led second pitch (proper).
First HS lead. Went a bit off route on the second pitch (a bit onto Dexter) - but regained it for the wide crack.
|jon bradley||11/Jul/14||AltLd rpt||
|Alex Winter||04/Jul/14||Solo O/S|
|Nathan Chrismas||22/Jun/14||Lead dnf||
Did the first pitch then had a moment attempting to gain the slab after the 'football'. Had a chat and abseiled off the tree.
|Tom F Harding||12/Jun/14||Lead O/S||
Led first pitch, Sam led second
Led middle pitch/move
Pitch 1 and 3 . Difficult parts have good gear.
|Dave Ing||20/May/14||Lead rpt||
P1 and P2, then abbed off before dark
Led P2 with the famous 'football sized hold' - fantastic move but a very short pitch
Thought this was 1 star max, ok I guess. Lead 1st pitch, Dan lead the second two in one.
Dan from Bristol, Hamish
Dan Stickland, Andrea
sweet first pitch. Very grippy now actually. led 2nd/3rd pitch in one, and interesting traverse to the tree.
Lead P1 - fun climb - need to be more confident in my placements
|Curly Rich||21/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
GMC Peter Neden
I felt P1 was harder. Pretty poorly protected. VS? Loz's first proper trad multi-pitch in 5 years!
|Neil Gay||01/Sep/13||AltLd rpt|
|ali macphee||01/Sep/13||AltLd O/S|
Led P2 and P3 as one.
|George Frisby||14/Aug/13||Lead β|
We ran out of rope so had to start moving together.
James C link P1 and P2 together. I led pitch 3.
(P1) a bit of polish nudges up the psychological grade slightly
mega muggy today but still enjoyable climbing
Led 2nd pitch
Mitchell Kane, Stephen Downward
Led second pitch as one long pitch (up to lunchtime ledge). Very good quality climbing.
|Cheese Monkey||21/May/13||Lead O/S||
|Poco Loco||17/May/13||AltLd rpt||
Led p1, p3. Climbed wall to right of runnel on p3.
Seconded 1st pitch. Completed remainder via second pitch of Dexter.
Abbed off lunchtime ledge
I really like this climb, awesome features (for avon). Worth running first two pitches together
Lovely move on the second pitch gets this route the ** it deserves.
Great climb with some excelent moves. Limited but very good protection. Was my first HS lead
The horror! Pitch one was a pleasure, even the "frightening move up onto polished footholds". Pitch two was damp - half the holds above the porthole were sopping (i.e all of them bigger than a matchstick) and this move felt 5a! Pitch 3 was abysmal a muddy, wet slipfest. I'd done it as the top out from Clarion before and remembered a 4a (if that) bimble. This time round I backed off, leaving gear in the (sopping) crack below the chimney, later retrieved by abseil. Ugh.
|Stuart William||13/Jan/13||AltLd O/S||
Me: P1 & P3 Alex: P2
Light drizzle should have put us off at the start but we cracked on in true british grit, finishing soaked but happy. Very slippy
Abandoned at second belay (rain)
Lead all 3 pitches
Not the best effort I have ever made, went off course on pitch 2 a bit
Sinister first pitch, Dexter Second.
|Mark Salter||05/Jul/12||AltLd O/S||
did a different 2nd pitch (or actually rather a different 3rd pitch) on the slab left of sinister, good VS 4c with reasonable protection in a good crack half way up
Polished and horrible. Tried to do it in one pitch but got into a lot of trouble with rope getting tangled in bushes so best to do it in two.
p1 me, p2/3 Simon.
|Nick Russell||06/May/12||AltLd rpt||
Only led the short second pitch
|Katherine Ross||06/May/12||AltLd rpt|
Some nice climbing.
due to "navigational errors" i traversed and did the crux of Clarion (left then up instead of up then left) as the second pitch, makes for an interesting variant.
Patrick C, Ruth Naughton-Doe
Best weekend of the year weather wise (first day after the clocks went forward. Horrendous sandbag for Jim's first ever climb, but he made it! Really great route, interesting features and plenty of protection.
Fun little number and easy to protect. Alot nicer than Dexter.
|Dave Ing||10/Mar/12||AltLd O/S||
P1 & P2
|Ed Babs||06/Mar/12||AltLd O/S||
With a traverse to the start of pink wall direct
|Nick Russell||08/Feb/12||Lead O/S|
I led pitches 1 & 3
led the little traverse that is pitch 2 in order to minimise rope faff
Easy climb, with finish in the dark. Polished footholds makes the crux of the first pitch interesting.
|Katherine Ross||15/Sep/11||Lead O/S||
Nice, balancy climbing. Not as polished as I was expecting from the guidebook.
|Becky H||15/Sep/11||2nd O/S|
did p.1 of this and then continued on dexter as had already done the top section of sinister whilst doing clarion. lovely mashup of the 2 routes and worked really well
Absolutely hated this with a passion - I wonder if I messed up the line big time? Boring, vegetated, polished, gentle gradient, rubbish top-out, and generally irritating. Uninspiring crux.
|Kate Edhouse||27/Jul/11||Lead O/S||
Lead 1st pitch, also lead P2+3 together, lovely route!
Seconded until lead final pitch. Off to the right after lunchtime ledge.
|andy dunn||14/Jul/11||AltLd rpt||
|Neil Gay||01/Jul/11||2nd O/S|
jack did P.1 & 2, I did p.3. really nice evening especially as the sun came out
Led the first two pitches, good climbing and good gear. You just need to trust your feet on some bits.
|Pete Rigby||30/Jun/11||Solo O/S|
p1 only; ran out of time
It's getting a little slippery in places.
|Dave Ing||15/May/11||Lead O/S||
Roped solo, done as one long pitch by tying two ropes together.
started raining halfway through the second pitch so backed off, fine climbing til then though
great climb, definitely worth its 2 stars! Particularly enjoyed figuring out the tiny second pitch.
Really nice climb, and way better views than I was expecting nearer the top. Crucial move on the second pich quite hard to find.
Ali P1+3 me P2
|Feeling bold||13/Mar/11||2nd rpt||
3rd time round seemed a lot harder. Deciding how to use the pocket on 2nd pitch took a good 5 mins. Left some gear in, my lead not impressed but retrieved later.
|j miller||08/Feb/11||Lead O/S||
brilliant route, with some of the best bomber placements imaginable, a pity the rock was quite wet below the small overhang. Only downfall is just before the first anchor point a large hold came off missing dean by about a ft at most, thankfully my frantic scream of below was heard. Brilliant fun with a 20kg haul bag attached to you.
mikey thompson, dean merchant
|Tom Brierley Gore||17/May/10||2nd O/S|
1st pitch only.
|andy dunn||04/May/10||Lead O/S||
1st pitch only. then 2nd pitch of dexter to lunch time ledge. V nice climb
|Clay C||18/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
|Darrell Read||11/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
Jacob Gaudoin, Ian Johnson
|Rosea Day||?/Mar/10||Lead rpt|
|Chris Sansum||18/Oct/09||Lead O/S|
seconded first pitch, lead the second.
nice warm up - ballsed up the rope work!!
Nice climb, not as scary as Dexter
P1 followed by P2 of Dexter
Nice first pitch, plenty of gear if you look around. Second pitch nice and third pitch short of gear but bombproof before grove.
Mike Connor, Peter Bird
odd finish after crux on final pitch leader went left out of the groove and direct up the slab to the left hand corner of lunch time ledge. An interesting finish with v little gear :P
|Poco Loco||02/Jun/09||Lead O/S||
Warm sunny evening in the gorge after work. Really nice climb. The first pitch is the crux and quite bold, I didn't find many gear placements...
Led in 'mildly moist' conditions. In hindsight would have run P1&2 together. Very nice climb.
|Feeling bold||29/Apr/09||2nd rpt||
Rpt, just the first 2 pitches and then ab'd off to do clarion.
3rd Pitch follow on from Clarion. It was gratifying to do this in the dry at last. Moving out of the chimney (where I came off in the rain) still prevented the greatest challange. Did the botonists variation at the end!
|Steven Andrews||05/Apr/09||Lead O/S||
led first pitch and then abed off
1st pitch only, followed by Dexter 2nd Pitch all done in one go, saved time but took us to the limit of the rope.
Went after work. I led first puitch - bot very scared! Not tht much gear and some delicate moves. Livi started second pictch but retreated as it got dark.
all pitches lead. nice. Could probably do the second and third together by running out the traverse.
heavy shower as I followed second pitch, which was misnavigated by Dan, so it was a wet VS Clarion as opposed to the dry HS we had hoped for. Rather unconventional lead on third (really chucking down now), squirming up the ginnal where positive holds could be found, Small fall on first effort, so very glad I just bought that new No 2 cam. Ended up pushing with right foot really high to finally emerge. First wet climb, rough wet holds better that shiney dry ones mithinks.
First Gorge HS. Went slightly of route..
|Feeling bold||14/May/08||2nd O/S||
As a 2nd I can see reason for the 3pitches. Fun climb, bit of polish, some nice moves and not that hard.
lead the correct route. very nice climb on a beautiful day
RMAS with novice
Alternate route taken (this is closest route we could find). Climbed over bulge just before the LH traverse. Harder than grade in guide book.
|Al Franks||16/Feb/08||AltLd O/S||
Lead 2nd and 3rd pitch
Pitch 1 - 45m HS - Neil leads polished start, and a trickymove over the bulge , tho this can be avoided by using slightly harder, but grippy moves around. Pitch 2 - 18m 4A - Phil leads one move wonder... standing in the crack, you reach up over the bulge...to NO holds. Need to edge left til left hand in shoulder high crack, work left foot up before getting right up into hole at thigh level, then levering up. lots of pressing down. After that a walk. Pitch 3 - 9m 4B - Phil leads Arghhh... horrible polished chimney-type area part way up with crap protection (take some CAMS next time!!) .. used body jamming and got scared...but was later advised by all-knowing Neil I should have bridged out wider and used feet. If only I looked more closely first!
Lead second (extremely short) pitch. Soft for HS, especially considering it's Avon.
|Mark Walter||19/Aug/07||AltLd O/S|
Just the little technical second pitch, nice little climb.
Seconded first pitch, to link with second pitch of Dexter. Enjoyable moves up to the first horizontal crack which proved interesting.
|No-chalk Nailer||?/Aug/07||AltLd O/S||
Went off-route but got back on. Went through a very sinister thorn bush....ouch
|Owen W-G||05/May/07||AltLd O/S||
Went way off route via lots of dirt/shrubbery and not much in the way of pro. Felt like E1 4c.
A nice easy start to the day. Ian led the first two pitches (4a,4b) and I led the third pitch (4a).
Goog climb, first pitch of main interest, secound has polished move but of no difficulty. Easy finish through chimney, more like scrambling
Lead 3rd pitch after seconding Clarion
Hardest lead yet, quite enjoyable too.
Simon Brown, James Parrot
|Sean Bell||??/2006||AltLd O/S||
Looking back on it this was *not* Sinister, totally off route, from start to finish.
|Fat Tim||01/Apr/04||Lead O/S||
First led IH up it, prob 2003/4 or 5. Have soloed all pitches many times since (starting from about 2007).
Ste and Chris
|John Southworth||23/Jan/00||AltLd O/S||
|chris sm||19/Nov/94||AltLd O/S||
|Pete Nugent||02/Feb/85||Lead β||
Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
First day of lead climbing. Soloed 19/7/81.
|leland stamper||??/1980||Lead O/S|
In the rain.
Annette Hudson and I on a RUMC meet. Alt leads