Rockfax Description
Pleasant, popular and polished climbing with three good pitches. Start below a small broken rib at 4m, just right of Clarion.
1) 4b, 22m. Climb the broken pillar to good gear in the break at the first set of overhangs. Step over the overhang onto a large, slick foothold and move up the short slab to the base of a narrow corner. Follow the corner to a bulging wall above and devise an exit right to a tree belay.
2) 4b, 10m. Move left and up to a football sized hold. Step left and pull on to a slab. Traverse left to a small tree and nut belays.
3) 4a, 20m. Finish up the wide rounded crack of Clarion's second pitch. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, South West Climbs for a Northerner, Avon sub-VSes, HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014, Avon gorge road to ruins HVS.

DavidWilby 24/May Lead
with Sam Smithers
Ashley King 20/May Lead

Done this route many times before, good fun with a couple of interesting moves, started raining during the climb so moved as quickly as possible.

Hidden 14/May AltLd O/S
Gibbo 07/May AltLd
with James Thompson
Digga 05/May Lead O/S
with Alice
Bob Peters 05/May AltLd O/S

Before work. Gearing up at 6:20, back at the bags at 7:50. Very satisfying way to start the day and pretty special to have main wall to ourselves (apart from the commuters). Didn't think the polish detracted at all really. Pleasant climb but the second pitch peters out before Lunchtime Ledge. Considered finishing up Petros but would have made us both late for work. Next time.

with Joe
Zolly Whitaker 04/May AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches

with Maddi Stewart, Megan Jackson
PanzerHanzler 29/Apr Lead O/S
with Martin Hore, Lynn R
Peter Rosso 27/Apr Lead O/S

Nice with an interesting move past the first belay. Good exercise for gear placement. Need to learn how to use something other than trees to build anchors.

with Ben Steel
Gibbo 24/Apr AltLd

I lead P1 as start to Dexter

with James Thompson
Moritz L 10/Apr Lead O/S

Traversed above the bulve, not sure this was right, had to avoid a lot of brambles.

with Alice
Chris Sansum 03/Apr Lead rpt
with Alex Caister, Robert Skilton
Jonesoc 03/Apr Lead
alexcaister 03/Apr 2nd O/S
with Robert Skilton, Chris Sansum
nathanjmasters 02/Apr Lead
with Elliott
Trevers 31/Mar 2nd rpt

Did the first pitch to get to P2 of Dexter

with Will, BStar
wjcdean 31/Mar Lead O/S

Just P1 then abbed after T had a nightmare on P2 of dexter. Couple of commiting moves with generally good gear. Got stuck for a while trying to get the last move to the belay. Went up the arete after so we could ab and retrieve gear

BStar 31/Mar 2nd rpt

The start of a long evening...

BStar 20/Mar Lead rpt

P1 then into Dexter P2, probably the more natural line and the best pitches of both routes.

with Rachael
Rachael88 20/Mar 2nd

Did first pitch then moved onto Dexter. Still one of my favourite pitches at the gorge

with Adam
AshBarnes 13/Mar AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch. It was moist! Good ol' traverse though

with Gravy, Jake
JGriffiths 13/Mar AltLd rpt

1st pitch. Second pitch was soaking below the belay

thompsonjr21 13/Mar AltLd
Hidden 10/Mar AltLd
Hidden 10/Mar AltLd O/S
adawson 24/Feb Lead rpt
with James Wheeler , Ashley King
Hidden 24/Feb 2nd
Ashley King 24/Feb 2nd

Adams first HS in the gorge, well led, a fun route, first pitch scary at point, one interesting move on the second pitch.

with Adam, James
Alex_RhodesUK 16/Feb Lead rpt

First outing for De Belner in Avon!

with Sam de Belner
s.thursz ?/Feb Lead
with Gerban
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
jhobbs 02/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Good climb. Did in last light with head torches. Second topped out in darkness. Some pretty bold moves.

with Elliott Clark
Pohil 07/Nov/15 -

Coaching Mark and Paul

Doug miller 23/Oct/15 Lead O/S
PEccleston 11/Oct/15 AltLd
tim123487 11/Oct/15 AltLd
with Dan guy
climbEdclimb 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Emma Smith, Samuel Wainwright
Samuel Wainwright 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Edward Tonkin, Emma Smith
Hidden 03/Oct/15 2nd O/S
lcullum7 28/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
adawson 25/Sep/15 2nd
with Jono Hawkins, Ashley King
Ashley King 24/Sep/15 AltLd
Hidden 21/Sep/15 Lead
PaddyAdams 21/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Gustav 20/Sep/15 2nd rpt

1st pitch of sinister into 2nd pitch of Dexter- best bits of both routes!

with Matt
Hidden 15/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Rob Moorcroft 01/Sep/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
Trevers 27/Aug/15 AltLd rpt

Led the first two pitches (seconded previously). Straightforward but pleasant climbing, bit of hassle with ropes on the traverse.

with Rachael, BStar
BStar 27/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
Rachael88 27/Aug/15 2nd

Nice climb, third pitch made more fun by all the mud!

my 22/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3

Hidden 22/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
maresia 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Phil Harris
Lukem6 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Jenny Monkey 09/Aug/15 Lead
sdi 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3.

with Tom K
Gustav 30/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Megan
Hidden 28/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jul/15 AltLd rpt
eduardo 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with lout
Lmt 25/Jul/15 -
with Ed
Jeremy Wilton 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Alternate leads - nice climb - the 'porthole' on pitch 2 needs a little thinking about - good fun.

with Mark Bathe
FernandoHidalgo 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
riff156 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Tim Harpoint
67hours 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

P1, Emily led the other two

with Emilyford, Oweeeen
Lizziemay 03/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Harry
badgerjockey 02/Jul/15 Lead O/S
ali.scott 02/Jul/15 AltLd rpt
with Will A
WillAndrew 02/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Ali
evhall 28/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Steve P
Adam Hill 26/Jun/15 Lead

Lead P1 and 2 together then quickly up P3

with Simon
daveb84 24/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
bonoid 16/Jun/15 AltLd
jammy4536 16/Jun/15 Solo rpt
JGriffiths 08/Jun/15 AltLd

Lead short second pitch (traverse).

with Gravy
thompsonjr21 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch. Enjoyed 1st pitch, 3rd pitch didnt really feel like climbing, may have gone too far right.

BStar 15/May/15 AltLd

P1 and P2

with Trevers
Trevers 15/May/15 AltLd β

Led the final pitch up to Lunchtime Ledge

with BStar
Hidden 11/May/15 Lead
gobbledigook 02/May/15 AltLd O/S

lead P2

Hidden 30/Apr/15 AltLd
danieleaston 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ruth
monkeyru 30/Apr/15 2nd
with Dan 23/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Paul Sheridan
DoMakeSayThink 22/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Had to lower Martin off at start of pitch 3 due to a shoulder injury, which was unfortunate. Continued the rest with Alasdair.

m_andersson 22/Apr/15 AltLd dnf

Lead the 2nd pitch but then, unfortunately, had to be lowered down due to a shoulder injury.

hoggy90 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Nice route

will_benfold 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2

BALD EAGLE 15/Apr/15 Lead
with Pete Shone, Dawn Anderson
Fatclimber 12/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

P2. Thought the route was easy for the grade.

Deako 12/Apr/15 AltLd
Larey 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with carl
BStar 07/Apr/15 Lead

First pitch has a 'interesting' move, lovely climb though, worth 2 stars. First after work climb of the year

with Rachael
Rachael88 07/Apr/15 2nd

Great first evening climb of the year. Certainly had me on my toes at the top of the first pitch!

with Adam
Joshthomas 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
ema 06/Apr/15 AltLd
Richardlake 05/Apr/15 AltLd β
will_lake 05/Apr/15 AltLd β
Tom Last 26/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Good route. Led pitches 1&3.

with Lachlan Bucknall
ali.scott 18/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

tom led first and second pitches, I led third

JamesRich 14/Mar/15 AltLd rpt
with Lewis
duncanedgley 04/Mar/15 Lead

Great first HS lead

with Ash Hall
Hidden 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Maddi Stewart ?/Feb/15 AltLd

2nd pitch of 3, Didnt place enough gear - only placed 2 bits of gear 1 fell out.

Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
steve_gibbs 08/Dec/14 Lead rpt
with Sunny Shah
s1362083 08/Dec/14 2nd
csumner28 03/Dec/14 2nd O/S

Bitterly cold, and mostly done in the dark.

Hidden 03/Dec/14 Lead
Steve Woollard 01/Nov/14 AltLd
with Donald
crater 01/Nov/14 AltLd

lead 1+3

duncanedgley 30/Oct/14 2nd

in the dark!

with Thom
Hidden 30/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Oct/14 AltLd
Hidden 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
mjcostain 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S

First lead

catty_9 17/Sep/14 Lead
Angrypenguin 17/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Cat
Richard L 14/Sep/14 Lead dnf

backed off - lack of protection

Andy Manthorpe 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Warm up route with Bernard.

hairy51 10/Sep/14 AltLd β
DavidWilby 07/Sep/14 2nd
Nathan Chrismas 07/Sep/14 2nd
BStar 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P2 and P3

with Dan Carron
Hidden 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
clams ?/Sep/14 Lead
with Catherine+Lucy
Benjaminblanc ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
CatMc ?/Sep/14 2nd
with Lucy, clams
Hidden ?/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Steve Bartle 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Rob Morgan 26/Jul/14 AltLd

Led second pitch (proper).

Rob Morgan 24/Jul/14 Lead

First HS lead. Went a bit off route on the second pitch (a bit onto Dexter) - but regained it for the wide crack.

jon bradley 11/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
with Huw Howells
Alex Winter 04/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
AndyRogers 02/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with ianlaw
Loubylou 02/Jul/14 -
with Simon Reynolds
Nathan Chrismas 22/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Did the first pitch then had a moment attempting to gain the slab after the 'football'. Had a chat and abseiled off the tree.

with Izzy, Dave
DavidWilby 22/Jun/14 2nd dnf
with Izzy, Nathan
Hidden 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead β
Hidden 12/Jun/14 AltLd
Tom F Harding 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

1&2 (together)

hp.hunt 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Led first pitch, Sam led second

with Sam Hooper
Hidden 03/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
George.Rowland 03/Jun/14 AltLd

Pitch 1 and 3 . Difficult parts have good gear.

Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Dave Ing 20/May/14 Lead rpt

P1 and P2, then abbed off before dark

with Joe Kelly
Rebs 14/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 AltLd O/S
danbirkby 09/May/14 AltLd


with Gordon
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Echna 03/May/14 2nd O/S
with Rich
philmcf ?/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
bigbobbyking 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Gary Connor
andrea83 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Thought this was 1 star max, ok I guess. Lead 1st pitch, Dan lead the second two in one.

with Dan from Bristol, Hamish
Hamish777 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Dan Stickland, Andrea
Hidden 05/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
Psych ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S
jammy4536 24/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

sweet first pitch. Very grippy now actually. led 2nd/3rd pitch in one, and interesting traverse to the tree.

RichyBOYY 24/Feb/14 AltLd

Lead P1 - fun climb - need to be more confident in my placements

with Jamie
TDSvejstrup 24/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
adam6509 ??/2014 2nd
with will bugden
bencaley 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Pippa Churcher 30/Nov/13 2nd
laurashaw 19/Nov/13 Lead β
Pippa Churcher 19/Nov/13 2nd
laurence_falconer 19/Nov/13 2nd
avictimoftheDrpsycho 10/Oct/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 16/Sep/13 Lead O/S

I felt P1 was harder. Pretty poorly protected. VS? Loz's first proper trad multi-pitch in 5 years!

with Loz K
Neil Gay 01/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
ali macphee 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
BenBird 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P3 as one.

Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
George Frisby 14/Aug/13 Lead β
with Chris
steve_gibbs 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
zcsharp 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
aelaeks 28/Jul/13 2nd

We ran out of rope so had to start moving together.

mikedevcole 18/Jul/13 AltLd

James C link P1 and P2 together. I led pitch 3.

katherinesydney 05/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

(P1) a bit of polish nudges up the psychological grade slightly

with mike bath
Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
jacksonm1 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Stanners 20/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

mega muggy today but still enjoyable climbing

with Alex Rhodes
Alex_RhodesUK 20/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
stujamac 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Mitchell Kane, Stephen Downward
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
R_W_M 01/Jun/13 AltLd
with Steve C
anthonylewis 27/May/13 2nd O/S
with pete ross
BeccaSnowden 27/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch as one long pitch (up to lunchtime ledge). Very good quality climbing.

with Ben
Hidden 27/May/13 AltLd O/S
Cheese Monkey 21/May/13 Lead O/S
with Vienna
BALD EAGLE 17/May/13 AltLd
with James Pomeroy
Poco Loco 17/May/13 AltLd rpt

Led p1, p3. Climbed wall to right of runnel on p3.

seanprendiville 12/May/13 2nd

Seconded 1st pitch. Completed remainder via second pitch of Dexter.

with Tessa
laurence_falconer 30/Apr/13 -

Abbed off lunchtime ledge

laurashaw 30/Apr/13 -
Kemics 27/Apr/13 Lead rpt

I really like this climb, awesome features (for avon). Worth running first two pitches together

with Mel
tc7118 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 AltLd
gingernick 03/Mar/13 AltLd
with Daryl
laurence_falconer 27/Feb/13 Lead
with Ben Caley
bencaley 27/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Eagertom 22/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Lovely move on the second pitch gets this route the ** it deserves.

laurence_falconer 22/Feb/13 Lead

Great climb with some excelent moves. Limited but very good protection. Was my first HS lead

Bobling 16/Feb/13 Lead

The horror! Pitch one was a pleasure, even the "frightening move up onto polished footholds". Pitch two was damp - half the holds above the porthole were sopping (i.e all of them bigger than a matchstick) and this move felt 5a! Pitch 3 was abysmal a muddy, wet slipfest. I'd done it as the top out from Clarion before and remembered a 4a (if that) bimble. This time round I backed off, leaving gear in the (sopping) crack below the chimney, later retrieved by abseil. Ugh.

with James
riff156 02/Feb/13 Lead rpt
with Hannahc, Jo Smith
Pleb 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with 2PointO
Stuart William 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Me: P1 & P3 Alex: P2

with Pleb
steve_gibbs ??/2013 Lead O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
Patrickmartin99 ?/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with James
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead
panda70 25/Sep/12 Lead

Light drizzle should have put us off at the start but we cracked on in true british grit, finishing soaked but happy. Very slippy

with Tom Court
Mayaculpa 17/Sep/12 2nd dnf

Abandoned at second belay (rain)

with John Volanthen
RamblingRyan 15/Sep/12 Lead

Lead all 3 pitches

with Emily, Col
Hidden 11/Sep/12 2nd
Slick 11/Sep/12 Lead

Still polished!

Egons Issy 11/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
PaulWatson 28/Aug/12 Lead β

Not the best effort I have ever made, went off course on pitch 2 a bit

with Eilidh
steve-grigg 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
pffft 09/Aug/12 Lead rpt

Sinister first pitch, Dexter Second.

with Jojo Mills
Urgles 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

P1 only

with Laura
Mark Salter 05/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Chris Shorrock
pheotleyr 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S

did a different 2nd pitch (or actually rather a different 3rd pitch) on the slab left of sinister, good VS 4c with reasonable protection in a good crack half way up

with Jana
jameslam ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Patrick
riff156 27/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Ali Cann
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
squicky 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Polished and horrible. Tried to do it in one pitch but got into a lot of trouble with rope getting tangled in bushes so best to do it in two.

with George
Hidden 19/Jun/12 AltLd
efrance24234 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
HarryB 01/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
with Jonny
localboy 29/May/12 AltLd rpt

p1 me, p2/3 Simon.

with Simon C
DOVEY 27/May/12 -


with Jake.P+ Billie
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead rpt
Kyle87 16/May/12 Lead O/S
tobydunford 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
Nick Russell 06/May/12 AltLd rpt

Only led the short second pitch

with Katherine
Katherine Ross 06/May/12 AltLd rpt
Dean177 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Monk 08/Apr/12 AltLd rpt


with Luke Vincent
pffft 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Some nice climbing.

with Monkey
flyinfrenchy 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
ben.richards 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
mikeydee135 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

due to "navigational errors" i traversed and did the crux of Clarion (left then up instead of up then left) as the second pitch, makes for an interesting variant.

with Patrick C, Ruth Naughton-Doe
Kemics 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Best weekend of the year weather wise (first day after the clocks went forward. Horrendous sandbag for Jim's first ever climb, but he made it! Really great route, interesting features and plenty of protection.

pheotleyr 10/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with dave
Ragingpossum 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Fun little number and easy to protect. Alot nicer than Dexter.

with harry kingston
Dave Ing 10/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

P1 & P2

with Peter
Ed Babs 06/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

With a traverse to the start of pink wall direct

with Marti
Marti999 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S
martin clarke 19/Feb/12 AltLd
Frostie 19/Feb/12 AltLd
with Martin Clarke
kyle 18/Feb/12 Lead O/S


Nick Russell 08/Feb/12 Lead O/S
matsav 08/Feb/12 2nd O/S
LouiseP 01/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 & 3

with Rob
R_W_M 01/Feb/12 2nd rpt

led the little traverse that is pitch 2 in order to minimise rope faff

with LouiseP
kelliroberts3 22/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
stafford101 07/Dec/11 Lead rpt
Ragingpossum 07/Dec/11 2nd

Easy climb, with finish in the dark. Polished footholds makes the crux of the first pitch interesting.

Hidden 15/Nov/11 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Nov/11 Lead
djking1983 14/Nov/11 2nd
Katherine Ross 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Nice, balancy climbing. Not as polished as I was expecting from the guidebook.

Becky H 15/Sep/11 2nd O/S
BethM 29/Aug/11 AltLd
bigdrew 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Beth
BALD EAGLE 20/Aug/11 Lead
with Rob Horler
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead dnf
jas128 16/Aug/11 2nd β

did p.1 of this and then continued on dexter as had already done the top section of sinister whilst doing clarion. lovely mashup of the 2 routes and worked really well

Hidden 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
bonelessivar 15/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Aeddon
Hidden 06/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
groliver26 01/Aug/11 2nd
jon_ridley 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Absolutely hated this with a passion - I wonder if I messed up the line big time? Boring, vegetated, polished, gentle gradient, rubbish top-out, and generally irritating. Uninspiring crux.

Kate Edhouse 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Lead 1st pitch, also lead P2+3 together, lovely route!

luckyluke 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Seconded until lead final pitch. Off to the right after lunchtime ledge.

Dean177 16/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
andy dunn 14/Jul/11 AltLd rpt


with Alan
joeurwin 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Neil Gay
Neil Gay 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
JamesRich 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

jack did P.1 & 2, I did p.3. really nice evening especially as the sun came out

Quarryboy 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led the first two pitches, good climbing and good gear. You just need to trust your feet on some bits.

Pete Rigby 30/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Didymus 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S

p1 only; ran out of time

with Josh
Gregthebadger 06/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/11 2nd
BB1 02/Jun/11 AltLd

It's getting a little slippery in places.

with P Ross
Dave Ing 15/May/11 Lead O/S

Roped solo, done as one long pitch by tying two ropes together.

Joby 14/May/11 Lead dnf

started raining halfway through the second pitch so backed off, fine climbing til then though

with Alice Fuller
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Stanners 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

great climb, definitely worth its 2 stars! Particularly enjoyed figuring out the tiny second pitch.

with Martin Stanfield
Stanley 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Really nice climb, and way better views than I was expecting nearer the top. Crucial move on the second pich quite hard to find.

BB1 14/Apr/11 2nd
with P Ross
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Quirina 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
HarryB 23/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Ali P1+3 me P2

Feeling bold 13/Mar/11 2nd rpt

3rd time round seemed a lot harder. Deciding how to use the pocket on 2nd pitch took a good 5 mins. Left some gear in, my lead not impressed but retrieved later.

with Barnstaple Neil
kyle 16/Feb/11 2nd
j miller 08/Feb/11 Lead O/S

brilliant route, with some of the best bomber placements imaginable, a pity the rock was quite wet below the small overhang. Only downfall is just before the first anchor point a large hold came off missing dean by about a ft at most, thankfully my frantic scream of below was heard. Brilliant fun with a 20kg haul bag attached to you.

with mikey thompson, dean merchant
Mikey1988 08/Feb/11 -
31770 ??/2011 -
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
pyro2312 25/Sep/10 2nd
with John M
Hidden 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
localboy 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Simon F
simonf 27/Jul/10 2nd
with Mike
crossdressingrodney 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Julian
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
sweenyt 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Elena
Hidden 17/May/10 Lead rpt
Tom Brierley Gore 17/May/10 2nd O/S
Dan_Staff 15/May/10 2nd O/S

1st pitch only.

with James Turner
andy dunn 04/May/10 Lead O/S

nice climbing

with Rob U
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead rpt
sweenyt 28/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

P1+2 together

with Paula
bsavage 22/Apr/10 Lead rpt

1st pitch only. then 2nd pitch of dexter to lunch time ledge. V nice climb

with Felicia Line
gingergeorge 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
R_W_M 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Charlie, Chris
stafford101 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Clay C 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd rpt
Darrell Read 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Jacob Gaudoin, Ian Johnson
James_86 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Jacob
Rosea Day ?/Mar/10 Lead rpt
richardadventurecafe 30/Jan/10 Lead
with Neil Sperrings
Hidden 30/Jan/10 2nd O/S
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Fred_Richard ??/2010 Lead
Chris Sansum 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
tommoulds 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S

seconded first pitch, lead the second.

with Schramm
mark schramm 10/Oct/09 Lead

nice warm up - ballsed up the rope work!!

with tom m
tommoulds 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Schramm
mullermn 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Nice climb, not as scary as Dexter

Kylie 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
aipattison 09/Sep/09 Lead rpt

P1 followed by P2 of Dexter

Yetiyare 09/Sep/09 2nd O/S
ron244 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Nice first pitch, plenty of gear if you look around. Second pitch nice and third pitch short of gear but bombproof before grove.

with Mike Connor, Peter Bird
mpc 18/Aug/09 2nd
TimPerkin 16/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Richard Harris
bsavage 13/Jul/09 AltLd rpt

odd finish after crux on final pitch leader went left out of the groove and direct up the slab to the left hand corner of lunch time ledge. An interesting finish with v little gear :P

with Richard Craddock
jez_springall 21/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Rich Paterson
Hidden 11/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Poco Loco 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Warm sunny evening in the gorge after work. Really nice climb. The first pitch is the crux and quite bold, I didn't find many gear placements...

with James Gray
aipattison 07/May/09 Lead O/S

Led in 'mildly moist' conditions. In hindsight would have run P1&2 together. Very nice climb.

catemuir 07/May/09 2nd
Feeling bold 29/Apr/09 2nd rpt

Rpt, just the first 2 pitches and then ab'd off to do clarion.

with Cheddar John
Hidden 29/Apr/09 Lead
PaulWatson 28/Apr/09 Lead O/S

3rd Pitch follow on from Clarion. It was gratifying to do this in the dry at last. Moving out of the chimney (where I came off in the rain) still prevented the greatest challange. Did the botonists variation at the end!

with Dan, Muny
thomasadixon 08/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Monk 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Matt Hartgrove
Steven Andrews 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

led first pitch and then abed off

with Paula Worth
PaulWatson 19/Mar/09 2nd O/S

1st pitch only, followed by Dexter 2nd Pitch all done in one go, saved time but took us to the limit of the rope.

with Tony
ClareR 17/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Went after work. I led first puitch - bot very scared! Not tht much gear and some delicate moves. Livi started second pictch but retreated as it got dark.

with Livi
Kenemo ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
climbingxcat ??/2009 -
with Brian
Spacetourist ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Hidden 23/Oct/08 Lead
EmmanuelF 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S

all pitches lead. nice. Could probably do the second and third together by running out the traverse.

Protheroe 29/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Eleri Dawson
Hidden 29/Sep/08 AltLd rpt
PaulWatson 12/Aug/08 AltLd dog

heavy shower as I followed second pitch, which was misnavigated by Dan, so it was a wet VS Clarion as opposed to the dry HS we had hoped for. Rather unconventional lead on third (really chucking down now), squirming up the ginnal where positive holds could be found, Small fall on first effort, so very glad I just bought that new No 2 cam. Ended up pushing with right foot really high to finally emerge. First wet climb, rough wet holds better that shiney dry ones mithinks.

with Dan
Ewan Richards 30/Jul/08 Lead

First Gorge HS. Went slightly of route..

with Tara
Hidden 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
scorpia97 06/Jun/08 2nd
with Caspian
lizannday ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Neil Furgeson
Hidden 23/May/08 2nd O/S
Feeling bold 14/May/08 2nd O/S

As a 2nd I can see reason for the 3pitches. Fun climb, bit of polish, some nice moves and not that hard.

with Andrew
django 14/May/08 Lead O/S
brady 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Hilary
bsavage 07/May/08 Lead O/S

lead the correct route. very nice climb on a beautiful day

with Piers
CarolineH 24/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden 19/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Theeni 09/Mar/08 Lead O/S

RMAS with novice

nicki_2712 01/Mar/08 2nd
lukehodson 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
rh5980 27/Feb/08 Lead O/S
bsavage 27/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Alternate route taken (this is closest route we could find). Climbed over bulge just before the LH traverse. Harder than grade in guide book.

Al Franks 16/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Emily Reynolds
Alasdair88 16/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd and 3rd pitch

with Emily Reynolds
scorpia97 ??/2008 -
with Caspian
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Hidden 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
philkerswell 13/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 - 45m HS - Neil leads polished start, and a trickymove over the bulge , tho this can be avoided by using slightly harder, but grippy moves around. Pitch 2 - 18m 4A - Phil leads one move wonder... standing in the crack, you reach up over the NO holds. Need to edge left til left hand in shoulder high crack, work left foot up before getting right up into hole at thigh level, then levering up. lots of pressing down. After that a walk. Pitch 3 - 9m 4B - Phil leads Arghhh... horrible polished chimney-type area part way up with crap protection (take some CAMS next time!!) .. used body jamming and got scared...but was later advised by all-knowing Neil I should have bridged out wider and used feet. If only I looked more closely first!

with Neil
Hidden 13/Sep/07 AltLd rpt
Hidden 06/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Lead second (extremely short) pitch. Soft for HS, especially considering it's Avon.

with Matt Frank
Mark Walter 19/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Eccentric 19/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Just the little technical second pitch, nice little climb.

pishmishy 10/Aug/07 2nd O/S

Seconded first pitch, to link with second pitch of Dexter. Enjoyable moves up to the first horizontal crack which proved interesting.

with Bernard
No-chalk Nailer ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Went off-route but got back on. Went through a very sinister thorn bush....ouch

Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/07 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 05/May/07 AltLd O/S

Went way off route via lots of dirt/shrubbery and not much in the way of pro. Felt like E1 4c.

with Tony Seale
CarolineH 02/May/07 2nd
with Neil
Hidden ??/2007 -
sea_lene ??/2007 -
flatcap 15/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

A nice easy start to the day. Ian led the first two pitches (4a,4b) and I led the third pitch (4a).

with IanI
Zoomer 14/Oct/06 Lead
Jules 210681 14/Oct/06 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 -
deanster01 28/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Goog climb, first pitch of main interest, secound has polished move but of no difficulty. Easy finish through chimney, more like scrambling

with Laurie Neale
Jethro ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Tom Bouquet
furry 12/May/06 Lead O/S
timstyles ?/May/06 Lead O/S

Lead 3rd pitch after seconding Clarion

Hidden 30/Apr/06 AltLd
Hidden 12/Apr/06 Lead O/S
phsharpy 02/Mar/06 Solo O/S
with Bethan Davies
Bob M 29/Jan/06 -
Norman_P_W 29/Jan/06 -
with Bob M
Shezzer 07/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Hardest lead yet, quite enjoyable too.

with Simon Brown, James Parrot
beardy mike ??/2006 Solo
Bern ??/2006 -
Sean Bell ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with rob, matt
John Lisle ??/2006 -
thomasadixon ??/2006 2nd O/S

Looking back on it this was *not* Sinister, totally off route, from start to finish.

Bristoldave ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/2006 -
Ivster ??/2006 -
Slick ??/2006 -
Hidden 23/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
pattisonr ?/Jul/05 -
with Matt
Bux ?/May/05 Lead rpt
with Will
gripped01 ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Graves
mwh 16/Jan/05 Lead O/S
with Ruth
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
joe_alexander ??/2005 Lead
mol 20/Oct/04 Lead
with Dave
KarlH 17/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Tom Hales
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd
Fat Tim 01/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with PJ
Richard Hall ??/2004 Solo

First led IH up it, prob 2003/4 or 5. Have soloed all pitches many times since (starting from about 2007).

with Ian Hawkins
JamieAyres ?/Oct/03 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
five ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
Whealiebob 05/Jul/03 AltLd
with Ste and Chris
Digger 17/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with James Latham
7ames ??/2003 Lead
MikeC59 23/Jun/02 Lead
evhall 18/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with J
BALD EAGLE 08/May/02 Lead
with Judith Wildman
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
Paz ??/2002 AltLd
with SN
IceMonkey1982 ??/2002 -
greedo ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Various red rope chaps
Hidden 16/Sep/01 Lead
Andrew1 29/May/01 TR
with Martin Carter
gimmer ??/2001 -
CurlyStevo ??/2001 AltLd
MartinN 06/May/00 2nd O/S
jim_randell 29/Apr/00 Lead rpt
with DG
Hidden 11/Mar/00 2nd O/S
John Southworth 23/Jan/00 AltLd O/S
with Vicky Munn
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Mickdenali ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Keith Biddle
alan moore ??/2000 -
Hidden 10/Oct/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/98 Lead
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/98 Lead
jim_randell 08/Jul/97 AltLd rpt
with WW
DavidR 31/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with John Marston
chrisrogers ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Dave ?
WRMusall 05/May/96 2nd
with Rick Stanley
colin milton 05/Apr/96 AltLd
with eric milton
pezzerrr ??/1996 Lead O/S
jim_randell 27/Apr/95 Lead rpt
with SL
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
ColdAndWet ??/1995 Lead
Tom Vivian 29/Nov/94 AltLd
chris sm 19/Nov/94 AltLd O/S
with Martin Sime
jim_randell 19/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
with FW
AndySL 24/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with Joff, Mark
leland stamper ??/1990 -
Richard Weller 28/Jul/89 AltLd
with john sanders
AndyB123 ??/1989 AltLd
with Andy E
Tony Buckley ?/Apr/88 Lead
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
sniffer ??/1988 Lead
with Paul Thomas
mikej 08/Jul/87 AltLd
with Pete Rowbottom
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/85 Lead
Pete Nugent 02/Feb/85 Lead β


with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
JamieAyres ?/Jul/84 Lead O/S
with Phil Windall
charlesmfrench 05/Apr/84 Solo O/S
wynaptomos ?/Nov/83 Lead O/S
andy tetsill ?/Jun/83 Lead
with Manchester Poly
andy gittins ??/1983 -
andy gittins ??/1983 -
John Marsland ?/Jun/82 Lead
with Karen Creek
Hidden ?/Aug/81 Solo O/S
Nigel Coe 28/Jun/81 -
with John Walmsley
stp 05/Apr/81 Lead O/S

First day of lead climbing. Soloed 19/7/81.

Martin Bennett 01/Aug/80 -
with Magi
leland stamper ??/1980 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 25/Nov/79 Lead

In the rain.

with Jackie Coe
Mike C 24/Nov/79 AltLd
with Walter Phipps
Nigel Coe 30/Sep/79 -
with Steve Portnoi
Nevil ??/1979 -

Do not know correct year

Hidden 05/Jun/76 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 02/Nov/75 AltLd

Details unsure

with Bob Lowe (CUMC)
Mark Kemball 11/May/75 Lead
with Norman
Rob Davies 22/Feb/75 AltLd

Details unsure

with Mike Papworth
Nigel Bond 21/Jul/74 Lead
with Pete Dainty
Nigel Bond 21/Jul/74 Lead
with Pete Dainty
tapley 03/Mar/74 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Rob Davies 16/Feb/74 2nd

Also led this a couple of times in late 70s

with John Richards (ICMC)
Andy Chubb ??/1974 -
with Phil Jardine
Bolt Phobia 23/Sep/73 -
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1970 2nd
Hidden ??/1969 2nd
Hidden ??/1965 AltLd
oldmanofmow 10/Oct/57 Lead O/S

Annette Hudson and I on a RUMC meet. Alt leads

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mlongman, riccynino, kevjarrett, GeorgeR, jalien, RANGITOTO, Hidden, WhipperSnapper, Hidden, George.Rowland, Hidden, Steve954, scarp, alexporter, Hidden, Jonny Raines, nchammer, Ander, Richard Morgan
High VS
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High HS
Mid HS
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High S
Mid S
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Votes cast 58
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
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Votes cast 53
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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