Avon > Avon Gorge (Main Area) >
 
Mediator E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Dark Motive
 
The Arete >>
unprotected one-move wonder
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 41 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

pheotleyr - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/14 with Michael

James Jackson - 2014

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with George Frisby

George Frisby - 2nd rpt - 30/Nov/13 with Steve Gibbs

Wanted to do The Lich, but there was a party on it so decided for this instead. Surprisingly good choice it was - really nice 5b crux about 1 meter above a cluster of bomber gear and some almost reasonably protected 4c/5a climbing towards the top of the slab. On pretty cool rock structure. Less serious than Central Buttress I thought and should be done more often.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/13 with Jana

Extremely thin crux - required a very precise sequence to get over it. Only one reasonable bit of gear after this until the finishing break. A memorable way to join the E-club.
stafford101 - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/13 with George Frisby

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Steve Gibbs

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13

missed the peg, hence was a bit run out
mattorford - Lead - 06/Nov/11

nice route - one move - tiny edges for hands and feet...
evhall - Lead β - 23/Aug/11 with Fletch

AndyMcCoy - 2nd - 23/Jun/11 with Nathan

aipattison - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Alex Malins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11 with Robyn Nelson

j miller - Lead dog - 2011

cool crux, not easy peasy...
Dr Caterpillar - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Al

sweenyt - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Paula

Hidden - Solo rpt - 29/Aug/09

dimwit18 - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/09 with Keith Peck

First E1. Found the crux to be well protected with 2 nuts, a cam and the rusty peg! Going straight up the center of the slabs above felt very adventurous, big run outs of about 6m and still reasonable hard thin climbing.
keithpeck - Lead RP - 26/Jul/09 with Dimitris Perdikou

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 2009 with Rosea

Simon felt that he couldn't do the 5b move, so skirted left before joing up with the origianl route later.
Caspar - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Simon Reynolds

skirted around 5b move
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Caspian

One balancy worrying move and the gear's okay, just at your feet.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/08 with Matt Frank

KRB - Solo O/S - 25/Oct/07

Added an alternative top, go up the blank slab between the correct line and the vdif - very committing, no gear, run out, smooth and a babies bum! probably E2/E3 5c
ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/07 with Kate

A lot easier than Mike's Mistake!
RedFox - 2nd - 09/Feb/06 with Tom K

Seconded Ian Lau first time round, then led SK, then second TK.
Richard Hall - Lead - 2006 with Sam Kendrick

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2005

Dark
Paz - Lead O/S - May/04 with SN

IceMonkey1982 - Lead O/S - 2003

Andrew1 - 2nd - 21/Apr/01 with Martin Carter

gimmer - 2001

Ally Smith - 2000

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 1999 with Cath

mark-abz - Lead - 14/May/88 with Andy W

Hidden - Lead - 1988

JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - Sep/84 with some geezer I met down the Gorge

John Marsland - Lead - 26/Mar/83 with Dave Mould and Nick Ward

stp - 1982

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Stanners

Voting
Total votes cast 27
hard E20 of 10
E20 of 10
easy E20 of 10
hard E10 of 10
E19 of 10
easy E11 of 10
hard HVS0 of 10
HVS0 of 10
easy HVS0 of 10
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
hard 5b0 of 9
5b9 of 9
easy 5b0 of 9
hard 5a0 of 9
5a0 of 9
easy 5a0 of 9
3 Stars0 of 8
2 Stars1 of 8
1 Star6 of 8
0 Stars1 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 41 (4.9%)
Lead25 of 41 (61.0%)
Followed10 of 41 (24.4%)
Unknown4 of 41 (9.8%)

'Climbed'13 of 41 (31.7%)
clean O/S22 of 41 (53.7%)
clean β1 of 41 (2.4%)
clean rpt3 of 41 (7.3%)
clean RP1 of 41 (2.4%)
dogged1 of 41 (2.4%)