UKC Logbook - 'The Frumious Bandersnatch'

30m. Start below the fin as for The Jub-Jub Bird and follow this route up the crack and corner for approximately 5 metres until level with a down-pointing fang and slab beneath the second small overhang on the right arête. Pull right into the small overhang and then right again to get established on the arête and the face to the left of Godzilla. (Three ropes were used to climb this first section before ditching one rope after placing gear on the face and clipping it to another rope). Climb the arête and face direct (Bold) between The Jub-Jub Bird and Godzilla, until the large flake crack of Godzilla is reached (Phew). Follow the large flake crack of Godzilla to the jamming niche below the roof. Rest, breathe deep, arrange bomb-proof gear and try not to think about where you are about to launch. (The psychological crux) With no high runners in Godzilla, you will regret it as you do not want an ounce of rope drag for what is to come; pull left out of the niche onto the seriously overhanging wall by using those, oh-so-worrying, undercut-flakes. Clip a peg on the left. (The peg is good, although it is a small blade and doesn’t really settle the turmoil that is now threatening to explode your mind all over that lovely orange rock!). Undercut with much vigour hoping the holds don’t explode quicker than your biceps and make wild, no … make really wild moves up and left to a good rail in the middle of the face. Place gear in the slightly worrying booming rail before you reach a point of total meltdown and then layaway directly up to stand on the rail. Make a few very hard moves up by using small sloping crimps until a final dramatic throw, slightly left, for a very good hold can be made. If you are still there, and haven’t plunged into outer-space, one final hard move, with peddling feet and screaming mind, will establish you onto a more sane angle. A big breath can now be taken before you jibberwocky your way to the top of the fin. NB: This climb was successfully led on the second attempt. On the first attempt all gear was placed on lead and a monster lob was taken on the crux move near the top of the climb.

Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy 14/Aug/2011.