125m, 6 pitches.
Start as for Byzantium. This is a rising traverse of the crag from left to right.
1: 4b 30m From the rib of rock to the right of the bottom of the first pitch of Byzantium, move
delicately down and right across a steep wall to a corner at 3m. Climb this easily to a grassy slab leading to a grass ledge at the foot of a steep groove.
2: 4c 30m or 8m (4c) and 22m (4a). Up the groove on finger jams and friction and step right onto the main slab. From here delightful and easy climbing leads across the slab on the obvious line of ledges to a grassy pulpit. It is possible to take an intermediate belay at the start of the slab thus allowing both leader and second to appreciate the airy situations.
3: 4c 10m From the pulpit descend for 2m, then move horizontally right to gain the crack at the end of Pitch 1 of Lest We Forget. Follow these to corner belay.
4: 5b 25m Move right along the ledge and follow Pitch 2 of Midsummer Nightmare up the parallel rounded grooves to immediately below the huge block. Move right around the base of this and follow the obvious line to join the belay at the top of Pitch 2 of Land of Hearts Desire.
5: 5a 25m Follow Pitch 3 of Land of Hearts Desire. 6: 4c 5m Follow Pitch 4 of Land of Hearts Desire.
1: 4b 30m From the rib of rock to the right of the bottom of the first pitch of Byzantium, move
delicately down and right across a steep wall to a corner at 3m. Climb this easily to a grassy slab leading to a grass ledge at the foot of a steep groove.
2: 4c 30m or 8m (4c) and 22m (4a). Up the groove on finger jams and friction and step right onto the main slab. From here delightful and easy climbing leads across the slab on the obvious line of ledges to a grassy pulpit. It is possible to take an intermediate belay at the start of the slab thus allowing both leader and second to appreciate the airy situations.
3: 4c 10m From the pulpit descend for 2m, then move horizontally right to gain the crack at the end of Pitch 1 of Lest We Forget. Follow these to corner belay.
4: 5b 25m Move right along the ledge and follow Pitch 2 of Midsummer Nightmare up the parallel rounded grooves to immediately below the huge block. Move right around the base of this and follow the obvious line to join the belay at the top of Pitch 2 of Land of Hearts Desire.
5: 5a 25m Follow Pitch 3 of Land of Hearts Desire. 6: 4c 5m Follow Pitch 4 of Land of Hearts Desire.
D. Stelfox, D. Brown-Kerr 10/Jul/1983.
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Route of Interest
The Mistress
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Poison glen)