UKC

27m.

Rockfax Description
A fun pitch that requires a number of interesting manoeuvres not found in the average rock climbing manual. Start at a large tree close to the back of the ledge, next to two acute overhangs.
Climb up the tree and fix a runner in the branches before stepping onto the slab above the overhangs. Without the aid of a large rock anchor bolt climb the slab to a peg at the base of a right-leaning flake. Climb the flake, peg, to its end and a useful iron spike runner. Pull up the steep wall above the flake and finish steeply leftwards on good holds, passing another iron spike runner midway. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Tree Climbing Routes , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon VSes , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , Avon VS challenge , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Evening Wall Complete Collection , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Somerset Sufferfest

Feedback

User Date Notes
David Clover 1 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: lots of loose and the pegs need some replacing. will try and clean up soon
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: lots of loose and the pegs need some replacing. will try and clean up soon
GOlney 14 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty large loose block at the top of the slab after the crux. I expect this will fall off soon, and will likely make it all the way to the base of Clarion!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty large loose block at the top of the slab after the crux. I expect this will fall off soon, and will likely make it all the way to the base of Clarion!
Webster 8 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I think several crucial tree branches have gone since the guide was published, and one of the remaining ones is partially dead, so doing it without the rock bolt as a hand hold is almost impossible at the grade...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think several crucial tree branches have gone since the guide was published, and one of the remaining ones is partially dead, so doing it without the rock bolt as a hand hold is almost impossible at the grade...
Steve Bartle 22 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A helpful hold out right for the move up (from the flake) over the bulge. Without that the hands are slopey, but to be fair the right foot hold is big, but polished
Show beta
βeta: A helpful hold out right for the move up (from the flake) over the bulge. Without that the hands are slopey, but to be fair the right foot hold is big, but polished
David Clover 5 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Down to 1 bad peg before the flake, and the peg towards the top near the last spike is dangerously loose under a wobbly death bloke. Needs trundling i think. Replacing a peg on the flake would ease the mantle grade as well
Show beta
βeta: Down to 1 bad peg before the flake, and the peg towards the top near the last spike is dangerously loose under a wobbly death bloke. Needs trundling i think. Replacing a peg on the flake would ease the mantle grade as well
APang 24 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: some loose rock at the top so check your gear isn't going to dislodge some of the larger bits!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: some loose rock at the top so check your gear isn't going to dislodge some of the larger bits!
Mattia 26 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great airy climb high up in the gorge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great airy climb high up in the gorge
Foz Forster 25 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route with some bold exposed moves along the flake. fair play to Ander for seconding in hob nailed boots ????
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route with some bold exposed moves along the flake. fair play to Ander for seconding in hob nailed boots ????

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High HVS
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Votes cast 108
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High 4c
Mid 4c
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High 4b
Mid 4b
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Votes cast 100
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gronk

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))

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