Rockfax Description
A fun pitch that requires a number of interesting manoeuvres not found in the average rock climbing manual. Start at a large tree close to the back of the ledge, next to two acute overhangs.
Climb up the tree and fix a runner in the branches before stepping onto the slab above the overhangs. Without the aid of a large rock anchor bolt climb the slab to a peg at the base of a right-leaning flake. Climb the flake, peg, to its end and a useful iron spike runner. Pull up the steep wall above the flake and finish steeply leftwards on good holds, passing another iron spike runner midway. © Rockfax
Tree Climbing Routes , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon VSes , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , Avon VS challenge , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Evening Wall Complete Collection , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Somerset Sufferfest
User | Date | Notes | ||
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David Clover | 1 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: lots of loose and the pegs need some replacing. will try and clean up soon | βeta? | |
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βeta: lots of loose and the pegs need some replacing. will try and clean up soon |
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GOlney | 14 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Pretty large loose block at the top of the slab after the crux. I expect this will fall off soon, and will likely make it all the way to the base of Clarion! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pretty large loose block at the top of the slab after the crux. I expect this will fall off soon, and will likely make it all the way to the base of Clarion! |
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Webster | 8 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: I think several crucial tree branches have gone since the guide was published, and one of the remaining ones is partially dead, so doing it without the rock bolt as a hand hold is almost impossible at the grade... | βeta? | |
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βeta: I think several crucial tree branches have gone since the guide was published, and one of the remaining ones is partially dead, so doing it without the rock bolt as a hand hold is almost impossible at the grade... |
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Steve Bartle | 22 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: A helpful hold out right for the move up (from the flake) over the bulge. Without that the hands are slopey, but to be fair the right foot hold is big, but polished | ||
Show beta
βeta: A helpful hold out right for the move up (from the flake) over the bulge. Without that the hands are slopey, but to be fair the right foot hold is big, but polished |
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David Clover | 5 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Down to 1 bad peg before the flake, and the peg towards the top near the last spike is dangerously loose under a wobbly death bloke. Needs trundling i think. Replacing a peg on the flake would ease the mantle grade as well | ||
Show beta
βeta: Down to 1 bad peg before the flake, and the peg towards the top near the last spike is dangerously loose under a wobbly death bloke. Needs trundling i think. Replacing a peg on the flake would ease the mantle grade as well |
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APang | 24 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: some loose rock at the top so check your gear isn't going to dislodge some of the larger bits! | βeta? | |
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βeta: some loose rock at the top so check your gear isn't going to dislodge some of the larger bits! |
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Mattia | 26 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Great airy climb high up in the gorge | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great airy climb high up in the gorge |
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Foz Forster | 25 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Fantastic route with some bold exposed moves along the flake. fair play to Ander for seconding in hob nailed boots ???? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route with some bold exposed moves along the flake. fair play to Ander for seconding in hob nailed boots ???? |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))