Rockfax Description
A shy line that winds its way up some intimidating ground. The climbing is a touch runout and the finish exposed. Start by scrambling to a stance beneath a shallow groove, topped by an overhang.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb the groove to a peg under a small overhang on the left, then move up to the larger overhang and pull over. Move right to a stance in a sloping niche, peg and nut belays.
2) 4a, 15m. Step left and move up a shallow corner to an overhang and peg. Traverse leftwards below small overhangs to a sapling and then climb direct, passing a small tree on the right, to a short steep crack that is climbed to a larger tree and belay.
3) 4b, 26m. Traverse right to a grey-stained niche, pegs. Move right again to the end of the overhang and pull up and then back left above the overhangs. Climb flakes and then short walls to an easy slab which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon VSes, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist.

BStar 28/Apr Lead O/S

Certainly VS and certainly 4b. Nothing too hard. Route wise... cracking little gem that takes you up the Central Butress, no real polish to worry about, the crux moves feel good, nothing too desperate. Route finding was a little tricky and rope drag was disgusting on the last pitch. Ended up keeping the second a little too tight on the traverse... she had to take the roof direct it was that tight!! 2 star route (for the gorge)

with Rachael
Rachael88 28/Apr 2nd
with Adam
Hidden 19/Apr AltLd rpt
Hidden 19/Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr AltLd
Egons Issy 02/Apr 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Fatclimber 28/Mar AltLd

Pitch 2 and 3

Deako 28/Mar AltLd
Hidden 12/Mar AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar AltLd
AndyRogers 12/Mar AltLd O/S
with ianlaw
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Angrypenguin 25/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Turned into a bit of an epic. Couldn't find first belay and then went too far to the right after the traverse on the last pitch before finding the line. Nice once you work out where you are going.

with Cat
catty_9 25/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Nice route but took a while due to getting lost and trying to share belays with people. Led p2

Rob Moorcroft 01/Sep/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
Hidden 28/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Phil Murray 05/Jul/15 Lead rpt

A bit epic as heavens opened on top pitch - took a small tree belay & we had to move fast - got soaked at the top..... could have been worse, storm killed 2 on Brecon beacons that day/time.

with Liz
WillAndrew 23/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Great route!

with Ali
ali.scott 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Will A
Lil_Pete 25/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Corin
wilkinscl 25/May/15 AltLd
with Pete
Zack 17/May/15 AltLd O/S

Led 1 and 3.

andrewmcleod 17/May/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2/3.

Hidden 07/May/15 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/May/15 AltLd
will484 23/Apr/15 2nd
Fred_Richard 23/Apr/15 -
Rebs 22/Apr/15 Lead

P1&2, didn't have the guidebook so wasn't sure where to go for 3 so finished up Piton route. Good fun.

with Emily Grout, Thom Jenkinson
Hidden 22/Apr/15 2nd
Andy Chubb 14/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Chris Samsun
Chris Sansum 14/Mar/15 AltLd rpt

Andy p1-2, Chris p3.

Hidden 30/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 05/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
robburgundy 05/Oct/14 2nd
with Pete
evhall 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with goat
Pete Scott 04/Oct/14 AltLd
hutchay 22/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Kitt
felixizzy 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S

second/a bit of simul climbing

with Mike
Hidden 02/Jul/14 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this, was much better than I was expecting!

Hidden 20/May/14 Lead
tskelhon ?/May/14 2nd
clmacdonald ?/May/14 Lead
pheotleyr 29/Apr/14 2nd rpt

3rd pitch only.

with Oli
Egons Issy 29/Apr/14 -
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Dino Dave 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Dad
pheotleyr 04/Apr/14 Lead rpt

First pitch only. Less gear than I remembered.

with Neil
Hidden 01/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 29/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 12/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 12/Mar/14 2nd
Rob84 26/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt Goater
James Jackson ??/2014 -
The Ivanator 29/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Damp in places and a while since I did any serious Trad, so this felt hard. I led P1 and a bit extra to the base of the Piton Route Slab, Toby led the rest of P2 of Piton Route and we abbed off the tree due to failing light.

with Toby
avictimoftheDrpsycho 12/Oct/13 Solo O/S
George Frisby 20/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Second pitch definitely 2 stars, great climbing with good holds and great protection for the gorge.

steve_gibbs 20/Sep/13 2nd O/S
twem 01/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with David Smith (AMC)
Hidden 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Samuel P 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Tommy
Dr Toph 10/Jun/13 Solo O/S

Steady delicate climbing with some fine positions!

Anthony Dixon 31/May/13 AltLd
kirsten 26/May/13 AltLd


with george
georgeevans88 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
with kirsten
Pete Rigby 01/May/13 AltLd rpt
with Chasqui Patter
Slick 25/Apr/13 AltLd

P2 still felt harder then P1 and P3. Guess little gear does that!

andy dunn 19/Apr/13 AltLd rpt
with Alan
Cheese Monkey 11/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Excellent! p3 was awesome, combine it with Piton Route and you would have an incredible route up Central Buttress

with Vienna
stafford101 02/Feb/13 2nd rpt
steve_gibbs 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
steve-grigg 06/Jan/13 Lead rpt
Slick 03/Sep/12 AltLd

Led P1 and P2. P1 and P2 felt a little thin for 4b and 4a!

BALD EAGLE 20/Jun/12 Lead
with Sarah Flint
Hidden 12/Jun/12 2nd
pheotleyr 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Diane
George Frisby 08/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Climbed the last pitch in the rain but has good handhold on large flake so didn't matter too much.

with Chris
stafford101 08/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Ran p1 & p2 together. Thin moves on the first couple of pitches, much more rhythmic climbing on p3. Finished in drizzle.

cbeard 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

Lead most of the climb, then bailed off onto Piton route as the others got psyched out by an unintentional 4c variation.

with Rob Sievwright, Katherine Ross
Katherine Ross 27/May/12 2nd dnf

Charlie ran together P1 & P2. Disappointingly I fell off somewhere on P2 I think, but it definitely wasn't 4a! Rob didn't fancy the traverse and I'd psyched myself out of it so I led P3 of Piton Route instead.

with Rob, Charlie Beard
Stanners 21/May/12 AltLd O/S

Found the first pitch more technical than expected but the traverse pitch easier. Very good afternoon! Andy did the top slab to bag his first alternate lead onsight!

with Andy G
CreepingExcellence. 21/May/12 AltLd O/S
HarryB 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Matt, Danish
mchandy 12/May/12 2nd O/S
with Tom
TDSvejstrup 12/May/12 2nd O/S
PaulWatson 01/May/12 AltLd rpt

Led 2. Muny 1 & 3 Eilidh in the middle. p2 Harder than I remember, great climb though, best mid grade in Avon Main, Love the traverse under the roof

with Eilidh, Muny
Monk 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Very nice climbing, with some tricky moves on P2 and a devious line. Luke strung 1+2 together, I lead P3.

with Luke Vincent
pffft 08/Apr/12 AltLd rpt

Lead pitches 1 and 2 together, lovely climbing. Good moves and some times not much gear :) 3rd pitch is awesome

with Monkey
thomasaneurinsmith 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Dad
evhall 17/Mar/12 Lead rpt

3rd pitch rain - others didn't follow so ab down then rope got stuck - soaking +cold!

with karl, Mike D
R_W_M 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Lead p 1 and 3 lovely route could keep climbing pitches like these all day :)

with Todd
TDembrey 25/Feb/12 AltLd rpt

Lead pitch 2, lovely climbing

with Rob
Pete Rigby ?/Feb/12 Solo rpt


thomasadixon ??/2012 AltLd O/S

Can't remember when.

Rock_Monk3y ??/2012 2nd O/S
Andy Chubb 13/Nov/11 AltLd
with Nick Gregory
pffft 21/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Did third pitch, awesome pitch. Loved the exposure and soaked it up like a sponge, big smiles

Quarryboy 21/Oct/11 AltLd rpt

Led the first two pitches as one big one then Luke led the third. Climbed it before but a very long time ago. Got a little cold on the top pitch.

saintlade 23/Sep/11 -
Hidden 23/Sep/11 2nd
Nick Russell 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Fun climbing on the first pitch. Gear a bit sparse, but good when you need it. Got a bit off-route on p2 and suffered much rope drag

Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
jas128 04/Sep/11 2nd β
PaulWatson 09/Jun/11 AltLd rpt

1st 2 pitches only (then p3 of Piton Route) Sure they have the grades back to front in guide book. "I think its starting to rain" was probably the last thing Dan wanted to hear whilst on the awkward section of p2. It didn't

with Dan
Dave Ing 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Thrutched up the slab at the start of P2 which felt totally unnecessary, should have thought a bit more first.

with Rachel
kelliroberts3 ?/May/11 AltLd O/S
hutchay 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches

Hidden 28/Apr/11 AltLd
BB1 23/Apr/11 2nd
with P Ross
Pete Rigby 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
clams ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

nice route, pete joined 1st two pitches

with PR
andy dunn 12/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with Alan
31770 ??/2011 -
kenneM 16/Oct/10 Lead
with Steve Marner
pyro2312 25/Sep/10 2nd
with John M
TDembrey 21/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Ran P1&2 together, Clay led P3

with Clay
Clay C 21/Sep/10 AltLd rpt
with Todd
Ybot Htulk 19/Sep/10 AltLd
with Norman and Sonya
maresia 15/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
fragglerock 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
wildrover220 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
mikeyg 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd pitches

thomasaneurinsmith 31/Jul/10 AltLd
with Dad
suffolknick 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 3rd pitch - nice traverse.

with Paul
Clay C 28/May/10 AltLd O/S

I led 1st and 3rd pitches. Easy for VS!

CarolineH 28/May/10 AltLd rpt

Led pitch 2.

with Clay
ron244 25/May/10 Lead O/S
with Peter Bird
PaulWatson 15/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1&2 combined - a bit off course, ended up doing part of Piton Route and with a lot of rope drag. 1st roof quite daunting for a first serious climb of the season

with Muny
Alasdair88 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Possibly did a variation...

with Claire
Fred_Richard ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 2nd O/S
Chris Sansum 11/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Scrambled up to a tree to start, then abbed off after it started drizzling and all of the rock became soaked. Scrambled back up after it calmed down a bit. Chris led P1 - quite damp groove to start. Rest of climb was in good condition. Nice route. Only a small amount of polish in one place on pitch 1. Gary led pitch 2 (placing virtually no runners!).

with Gary Lewin
Marti999 03/Sep/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 03/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Marti
ruaidh 31/Aug/09 Lead β
with Josie
PaulWatson 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

led pitch 3 - great fun. the traverse looks daunting, but the crux is after. hard 4b

with Dan
ruaidh 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Class second pitch

Hidden 23/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Quarryboy 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Good morning out, Dave did a really good job!

with Dave Elder
Hidden ??/2009 -
maresia 29/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/08 AltLd O/S
Tempest ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
CarolineH 06/Feb/08 AltLd rpt

Led pitch 2.

with Neil
Hidden 30/Jan/08 -
Caralynh 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 and 2 only. Rain stopped play on pitch 3. One to return to.

Hidden 28/Jul/07 AltLd dnf
Hidden 26/Jun/07 AltLd
Jason Gotel ?/Jun/07 Lead


with Shiv
ellentaylor 23/May/07 AltLd O/S

Led middle pitch. Not much gear, frictiony slopers and smears.

with 31770
TimPerkin 15/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Dave Gale
chris sm 31/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with Daryl Waycott
Bristoldave 14/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Caroline and Dave 9
CarolineH 14/Mar/07 2nd
with Daves 6 and 9
Hidden 14/Mar/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Sep/06 -
tom.e 21/Apr/06 AltLd rpt
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 05/Apr/06 Lead O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S

The final pitch is IMHO the best VS pitch in the Gorge!

with Many
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
pattisonr ?/Aug/05 -
with Matt
Bux ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

I led 1st and 3rd pitches, Rupe led 2nd

with Rupert Bassadone
Darrell Read 20/Apr/05 Lead
with BUMC Fresher
Marq 28/Mar/05 AltLd O/S


with Daniel Dennehy
tom.e ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
furry ?/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with Neil
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd
mol 28/Apr/04 AltLd
with Dave
five ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Paz ??/2003 AltLd O/S

Wet. SN lead the 4c crux Inverted V!

with SN
greedo ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Boxy 26/Oct/02 Lead O/S
IceMonkey1982 ??/2002 -
DavidR 01/Jun/01 AltLd
with John Marston
Hidden 15/May/01 AltLd
gimmer ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Mickdenali ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Keith Biddle
alan moore ??/2000 -
Mickdenali ??/1997 Lead
pezzerrr ??/1996 AltLd O/S
colin milton 30/May/95 AltLd

lead p2

with eric milton
Hidden ?/Mar/95 AltLd
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
jim_randell 08/Oct/94 Lead O/S
with WW
mikej 09/Sep/87 AltLd
with Pete Rowbottom
Hidden 14/Jun/86 AltLd
JamieAyres ??/1984 AltLd dnf

got rained off pitch 3

with Phil Windall
leland stamper ??/1984 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 22/May/83 AltLd
with Steve Portnoi
Hidden ?/Aug/82 Solo O/S
stp 10/May/81 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 and 4

Hidden ??/1981 -
steve L 08/Sep/78 AltLd O/S
with Pat
Hidden ?/Sep/77 Lead O/S
Bolt Phobia 28/Mar/75 -
Andy Chubb ??/1974 -
with Phil Jardine
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 27/Feb/72 AltLd
with Mike Danford
Hidden ??/1970 2nd
Hidden ??/1965 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
laurence_falconer, GeorgeR, jalien, Hidden, RANGITOTO, Hidden, Rebs, George.Rowland, Hidden, Katherine Ross, Ander, Chris Homewood (Swindon MC), Caralynh
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 37
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set