Great Central Route*** HVS 5a
[Me and Steve on Great Central Route, 2 kb]An all-time winner finding its way through steep territory on the first pitch and in airy locations on the second. Start by scrambling to a belay at the lowest of three small trees.. 1) 5a, 23m. Climb small corners to the highest tree and then climb the wall on the right to the overhangs and a peg. Pull over the overhang past another peg, and traverse right between the overhangs until good holds allow a stiff pull to be made through the second overhang, peg. Climb the rib and step left to a short corner and an awkward stance just above, at the base of a corner below a steep wall.. 2) 4c, 45m. Move left around the edge of the steep wall and into a corner, peg. Climb up right to the arete and then with hands on the lip of an overhang traverse back left and pull over the overhang on good holds. Move right once again to the arete and gain the long, easy-angled finishing slab. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Me and Steve on Great Central Route © David King
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 239 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/14

corinrathbone - 2nd dnf - 13/Aug/14 with Łukasz Harazin

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 16/Jul/14

danmullett - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14

Led 1st pitch which is awesome. On awesome rock and not so awesome gear above the roof.
cheeky - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/14 with Mark Philipson

spaced gear, tricky route finding on pitch 2
mark4344 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/14

rhys.nadin - 2nd - Jul/14 with Richard Nadin

Alright, but no better than any other climb on Central Buttress.
pheotleyr - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/14 with Iggy

Led P2.much more polish than I was expecting which must have made the first pitch intesting to lead. Left foot slipped on grass when pulling up over the overhanging traverse but somehow managed to save what would have been a nasty swinging fall with one hand and a flagging foot. 1*?
squicky - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Peter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/14

mallardhealhook - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14

crimpylewis - 2nd - 13/Apr/14

Slick - AltLd - 09/Apr/14 with Kevin Vans-Colina

wouldn't rush back. Bit meandering and awkward as a three. Lead second pitch
darren hudson - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/14 with Adele Long, David Ford

Led first pitch, found the overhangs awkward and a bit run out.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Martin Haworth

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Andy

Actually started off on Piton Route but went wrong on P2. The overhang felt exciting for 4a! 5a + polish + bold above overhang made it feel exciting. Matt's pitch was done in record time as the sun went down and it was getting cold.
Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Matt Jackson

What a fine climb. Overhang on pitch 2 is pretty polished and poorly protected when the nerves need it, but hold your nerve and enjoy. Pitch 3 is a dream.
matt.jj - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Dave Mahon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14

Went to lead the second pitch, thought it went right once you get to the peg in the over hangs which it doesn't. Spooked myself and had to down climb and swap hanging belay with Jimbo. Rope work skills improved.
Pete Scott - 2nd - 08/Mar/14 with Jimbo

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

thomb - Lead O/S - 2014 with David Coley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/13

Lead P1
therat - AltLd O/S - 19/Oct/13

ian caton - AltLd - 25/Sep/13 with Abi

Abi Chard - AltLd - 25/Sep/13 with Ian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/13

Very good, benchmark HVS. Possibly the best route of its grade I have done in Avon.
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Mike

Brilliant Route.
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 25/Aug/13 with Ben

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13

Jamie lead the first pitch which i found enjoyable. i lead the second pitch but went right at the double pegs, found this quite hard and fell off, now only a single peg left (glad i clipped both). this left me swinging back at the belay, perfect for swapping the lead so that Jamie could drag my shaking body up the left side of the now single peg. Which is the right way?
sjbrook - AltLd dog - 06/Aug/13 with Jamie

An interesting lead from Sam, at least he has the broken peg as a souvenir now.
zcsharp - Lead rpt - 06/Aug/13 with Sam

Good, but definitely not worth 3 stars. Supposedly zero star route Central Slab just to the left is almost as good (and has zero polish)...
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/13 with Stuart

Me - P1 Peter - P2 Didn't find the best sequence after the roofs on P1 making it feel rather insecure and awkward up the rib. Otherwise lovely climbing on both pitches but I'm not sure its quite 3 stars when compared with some of the no-star routes on the same wall.
Stuart William - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/13 with Peter

Led first pitch. Really humid. Felt unexpectedly pokey passing the roof. Managed to get quite a comfortable lying-down belay on the ledge, even listened to a spot of Test Match Special.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with J. Iles-Smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13

tp45597 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with niels

Fantastic route in glorious evening sunshine. The sandwhich slab in P1 is quite shiny which adds to the exitement, and the belay was of the hanging variety.
Si Carter - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Colin Tiley

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/13

led first pitch but got so much rope drag from not extending gear had to bale.
halfwaythere - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with george

Ragingpossum - 2nd rpt - 25/May/13 with steve gibbs, willbris3

I don't remember the moves after the roof being as tricky last time!
katherinesydney - 2nd rpt - 30/Apr/13 with tom thomb

thomb - Lead - 30/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/13

alastairbegley - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/13 with Neil Morbey

Rich p1, following the e1 line after the overhang. Chris led up p2 of Central Buttress, as the belay was set up a bit high to continue up Great Central Route.
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 03/Mar/13 with Richard Lade

HarryB - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/13 with Catherine

catty_9 - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/13 with Beth Norman, Harry Bloxham

Good first pitch with what felt like quite hard moves then a fantastic belay right on the nose before seconding the second pitch which felt like it would be easier to lead in light of the direction of pull on the ropes.
Ragingpossum - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/13 with Tom Eldridge

aipattison - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/13 with George Evans

Some difficulty getting through the 5a move with a cumbersome rucksack on. Second pitch easier to lead than second due to rope pull - Will had to deal with that issue though.
Eagertom - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/13 with Will Bourne

georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/13 with Alex Pattison

jcw - 2013

Expectedly polished, but looser than I had anticipated. Better than it appeared.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/12 with Jamie R, Simon Da

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12

Led P1. Forget about the overhang in P2 and worse forgot you need to move left!
Slick - AltLd - 16/Sep/12 with Kevin Vans-Colina

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Harry Martin

Think I went too far right at the overhang on the second pitch. fun route tho.
Alan100 - AltLd - 01/Sep/12

nick lead pitch 1 and i lead pitch 2 - quite tough for the grade
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Nick Smith

Lead 2nd pitch. In the rain. Scary. Friday night after work, topped out just before dark and a heavier rain shower. Brilliant climb
Kemics - AltLd rpt - 17/Aug/12 with Anthony

Anthony Dixon - AltLd - 17/Aug/12

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with James N

jamesn89 - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with george e

First pitch only. Then bailed as martin struggled with the crux. Seriously awkward belay? Class climbing. Though a little spicy once through the roof, 4c moves and definitive ledge to deck into.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12

zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with James S

James S - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with jamie

Started leading pitch 1, got between over hangs and decided it wasn't for me, a good decision it turned out. Monkey lead instead. I lead pitch 2 which was a joy, traverse through overhang what a move. Run out above with quite a spicy move :)
pffft - AltLd β - 23/Jun/12 with Monkey

Really good, but surprisingly hard and bold after the roof on pitch 1.
Monk - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Luke Vincent

localboy - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/12 with Simon C, Simon F

Led P1; Simon led P2. P1 very polished but P2 not so bad.
simonf - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Simon, Mike

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jun/12

efrance24234 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12

Good route with the top of the overhang harder than I was expecting. Hanging nut belay I'm sure wasn't necessary though! 2* not 3* though in my opinion.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 25/May/12 with Kyle Williamson

This was good. Only slightly marred by the polish where piton route crosses it. We climbed it as a 3. I led P1, Dale P2 and DW2 came along for the ride.
SGD - AltLd - 15/Apr/12 with Dale

Good fun route. Stu had 1st 5a pitch I had 2nd 4c pitch. First pitch a little polished but I found it ok. Pulling threw the overhangs on both pitches was fun good exposer.
Dale - AltLd O/S - Apr/12 with stu, dave

P1
evhall - AltLd rpt - 25/Feb/12 with goat, Dave F

PAJames - 2012

Rambly start then good (if polished) climbing through the overhangs to the belay. I led P2, and moved right rather than left up onto the final slab after the ancient twin pegs, felt 5a and bold this way, but at least the holds were rough! Second pitch eases off completely once on the slab. Didn't think the climbing was consistent enough to warrant 3 stars, but a good route for sure.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/11 with Stewart

djking1983 - Lead - 14/Nov/11 with Steve Knaggs

I had some unfinished business with this route after backing off in heavy rain last time.
maresia - AltLd rpt - 13/Nov/11 with Mike Kann

dont fall!
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/11 with jon (ukc reading)

Double ropes would have been good. Rope drag was bad on both pitches. I'm not sure if my way over the first overhang was 'on route'
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

Ended up going past the belay at the end of the first pitch by accident as it wasn't really that obvious, which turned out to be a pretty bad mistake as I ended up doing the entire route as one super pitch. The main problem with this is it led to killer rope drag as well as the problem of running out of quick draws on the last section meaning I had to improvise a bit.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Rob Stanfield

Myself and the mighty TNM figured we'd eat this in a couple of hours, with Rollo there to try out his new GoPro. But it all went a bit wrong. TMN pumped out, Rollo went home, and we faffed our way through it. The little traverse near the overhang is polished but ok in the end and takes either a long reach or bold foot moves. Rubbish belay in the seat is better swapped for a peg belay on the ledge if you're ok with that as the seat is uber uncomfortable. However, if you're ok with the seat or have a well cushioned arse there are more anchors available than in the Royal Navy. No peg though. Crossed ropes on P2 lead to much faffing and a top out with a head torch on but apart from the move to the right of the double pegs it's plain sailing.
ashley_sandeman - AltLd β - 27/Sep/11 with Richard Miles

saintlade - 23/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Sep/11

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Graham Dolman

Jenny Seaborne - 2nd β - 03/Aug/11

a very uncomfortable & cramped belay - wouldn't like to attempt this one in a group of 3!
hms - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Jenny

karenhh - AltLd - 09/Jul/11 with Tom Brierley

Tom Brierley Gore - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Shijing Hu

Awsome route! 3 well deserved stars, the polish traverse under the first overhang was quite thrilling. Overhang move is well protected but very bold after that.
Fred_Richard - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Kat

kat-lyle - 2nd - 23/Jun/11 with fred

Slick - Lead - 20/May/11 with Isabel Evans

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/11

with Chris and Rich and a 45 min belay wait due to general team incompetance
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - 14/May/11

Necky move end of P1, with runout section straight after. Thought-provoking. Nice to tick this lead after six years.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 11/May/11 with Steve

Clay C - Lead O/S - 03/May/11 with James C

kelliroberts3 - AltLd O/S - May/11 with Peter Rigby

Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - May/11 with Kelli Roberts

catemuir - 2nd - 09/Mar/11 with Sophie Keltie

More like did not start - only had time for the top pitch. Good fun though.
Dave Ing - TR dnf - 24/Feb/11

31770 - 2011

All the excitement happens in the middle section, with both ends a bit scrappy and easy, so a bit of a strange climb, but the tougher bits are tasty. Nice topout onto the clifftop walk, and belay to the old railings.
manwithacam - AltLd - 18/Sep/10 with Joris

led P1
Joris.Roulleau - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Dan Metcalfe

P1 JL Lead, DL 2nd, TP 3rd P2 DL Lead, TP 2nd, JL 3rd An interesting and varied climb with some exciting moves. Relatively well protected but with some good exposure in parts. Best finished in the dark!
fragglerock - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/10 with Tom Prince, Jon Lumb

Lead first pitch, Dan lead second. Finished in darkness, perfect mid week after work route.
evilweed - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/10

Joris.Roulleau - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with Dan Metcalfe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/10

Slick - AltLd - 11/Aug/10 with Kevin Vans-Colina

Doubles would have been very useful! Did first pitch which felt pretty bold.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/10 with Becca

Led pitch 2. Cool move on smallish holds (though maybe I just couldn't reach the big ones!). Had a lot of problem with rope drag after though. I need half ropes!
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/10 with Tom

The 5a move is not too bad, protected by an old peg, with proper gear a couple of metres below. Gets run out on the slightly easier section above, so perhaps slightly above average difficultly for HVS? The second pitch involves some thought; it would be bog-standard VS with beta.
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/10 with alex malins

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Jul/10

philhilo - 06/Jul/10 with nick dinnis, simon C

Phil lead and went right at the wall rather than left. We only did the first pitch of this route and the second pitch of Central Butres. Got rope stuck as well.
localboy - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Phil, Simon C

Ali good lead on 1st pitch, I led 2nd
wildrover220 - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Ali Dixon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/10

lizannday - 2nd - 22/May/10 with Pete

climbed the bit around the overhang atrociously: grabbed two bits of gear, took two rests and fell off! gary said i'd enjoy it... once i got over the wobble though, the rest was quite enjoyable. warm rock perch on the slabs at the top was a treat
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/10 with gary burgess

Phil PBC - 2010

ian d f - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Pete H

Lead much easier second pitch - not sure I could have lead the first...
evhall - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Leandro

after benightment the previous year
Stone Muppet - 19/Sep/09

Lead 2nd pitch
Alasdair88 - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/09 with Malins

Al Franks - AltLd rpt - Aug/09 with Alex

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 30/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/09

Fell off climbing through the overhang on P1, after rushing it and not getting the feet in the right place. Led pitch 2.
Chris Sansum - AltLd dog - 13/Jun/09 with Gary Lewin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/09

lead 2nd pitch
andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Big Gay Jordo

georgeevans88 - 2nd rpt - 19/Apr/09 with Francis

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Robyn Nelson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/09

lead P2
Protheroe - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Douglas Hamilton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/08

scorpia97 - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/08 with Will Goldsmith

simonw1 - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08

In one pitch.
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/08 with J Robinson

JimR - 2nd - 07/Sep/08 with Charles H

Led first pitch: got a bit lost, and it was all a bit scary underneath the overhang and moving round the rib...!
Eddie Hung - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/08 with Rob Horton

rh5980 - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/08 with Eddie Hung

georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/08 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/08

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Nov/07

hmm...
Circus - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/07 with Loz

Hmmm, think the block you belay on for the top of the 1st pitch might fall off one day
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd O/S - 24/Nov/07 with Adam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/07

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 04/Nov/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/07

Lead 1st pitch
Al Franks - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Emma Ross

Alasdair88 - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Emma Ross

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/07

Led P2. Eric led P1. Very exposed and tasty!
dycotiles - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Eric

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/Jun/07

Hidden - 01/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/07

I hate British sodding wet weather!! Had to abseil off after being caught by the rain half way up. Nothing like wet limestone to make you shudder.
maresia - AltLd dnf - 08/May/07 with Iain Afshar

Marti999 - Lead - 05/Apr/07 with Mark Glaister

Led P1
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/07 with Joe

ruaidh - AltLd dog - 20/Sep/06 with ?

Lev - AltLd - 12/May/06 with Emma Ross, Greg Pittam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/06

cragdan - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/06 with jamie

Great route, with a tricky exit to the first pitch. Just make sure you carry on hanging on!
mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Ben Sutton

Bern - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

pattisonr - Aug/05 with Matt

RedFox - AltLd - 23/May/05 with Tom K

al99 - AltLd O/S - 13/May/05 with Rupert Rosedale

DM
Marq - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/05 with Daniel Dennehy

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead β - 2005

phsharpy - Lead O/S - 2005 with Bethan Davies

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 2005 with Tim Rolfe

simon kimber - Solo - 2005

furry - AltLd O/S - Sep/04 with Neil

Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - May/04 with Dave Peachey

Hidden - AltLd - May/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2004

climbingxcat - 2nd β - 12/Aug/03 with Brian

IceMonkey1982 - 2003

Boxy - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/02

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/02 with John Marston

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Mar/02

Paz - Lead O/S - 2002 with SN

gimmer - 2001

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

alan moore - 2000

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1999 with Chris Newton, Karen Ghiselli

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - Jan/98

p1 only (E1), then p2 of Piton route (4a), then p2 of Great Central Route (4b). Piton Route - 2nd
tracyclimber - Lead - 30/Oct/95

colin milton - AltLd - 29/Aug/95 with eric milton

leland stamper - AltLd O/S - Aug/95 with rich anderson

mikej - AltLd - 16/Apr/95 with Nick Salmon

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Martin off to Casualty!
chris sm - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/94 with Martin Sime

AndySL - AltLd O/S - 1994 with Jerry

AndyB123 - AltLd - 1989 with Andy E

Tony Buckley - AltLd - Jul/88 with Robert Clark

mark-abz - AltLd - 25/Oct/87 with Andy W

Moses - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/87

bullybones - Lead - 1987

Mike Owen - 23/Oct/84 with Elaine Owen

Richard Weller - AltLd - 06/Oct/84 with john sanders

sadams - Lead - 30/Sep/84 with Steve Gordon-Head

Led p2
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 30/Sep/84 with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)

failed on 1st pitch and never went back
JamieAyres - Lead dnf - 1984

Seconded in May 81.
stp - Solo rpt - 02/Dec/83

sadams - AltLd - 04/Oct/83 with Steve Newman

andy gittins - 1983

andy gittins - 1983

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/82

Nigel Bond - Lead - 05/Sep/82 with Charlie Leverton

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/81 with Richard Dickenson

first HVS lead
AlanLittle - Lead - 30/May/81 with Dave Hayward

Paul Clarke - 1981

Brian Wilderspin - AltLd - 27/Oct/80 with Kev Howett

tapley - 2nd - 12/Oct/80 with John Sumner

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/79

beaumap - Lead - 02/Sep/77 with Pete Coghill

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/77

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 16/Sep/76 with Saxon Ridley

alpboy57 - 09/May/76 with Stuart Hermalin

Marcus - 07/Dec/75 with Roger Stokes

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 11/May/75 with Geof Hargreves

Andy Chubb - 1975 with Pete Coghill

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1973

Hidden - AltLd - 1965

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
corinrathbone, TB30, K Dawg, kenneM, Kemics, Katherine Ross, Master Chief, mullermn, JamesRich, Stanners, Dave Ing, Ybot Htulk, explodingsprouts, Alan100, Richard Morgan, poey50, Caralynh

Voting
Total votes cast 152
hard E10 of 52
E10 of 52
easy E11 of 52
hard HVS28 of 52
HVS22 of 52
easy HVS1 of 52
hard VS0 of 52
VS0 of 52
easy VS0 of 52
hard 5b0 of 52
5b0 of 52
easy 5b0 of 52
hard 5a8 of 52
5a43 of 52
easy 5a1 of 52
hard 4c0 of 52
4c0 of 52
easy 4c0 of 52
3 Stars14 of 48
2 Stars29 of 48
1 Star5 of 48
0 Stars0 of 48
Bag of .....0 of 48
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf