110m, 4 pitches.
A big route. 2 superb pitches with amazing positions and some very physical climbing. Take a few large cams for the slot pitch. Wild Country 5 and 6. There are 2 stakes at the top for a belay.
Climbs the big crack in the wall left of An Gobán Saor. Start in the small corner beside a fallen column.
1. 60m. 6a. Climb the corner to a roof. Make a move rightwards to some fine cracks that lead to a groove. Enter the groove with difficulty, and follow it to the base of the mystery block. (Good belay if using 50m ropes). Climb up and around the block on the right at first, to a good belay on its top.
2. 50m. 6b. Climb the widening crack to the start of the gigantic overhang. Make a tricky move rightwards to gain a back and foot position in the slot (big cams). With difficulty and a wide range of techniques gain the superb continuation of the crack in the headwall. Continue passing one final squirm through a chimney to the top.
Climbs the big crack in the wall left of An Gobán Saor. Start in the small corner beside a fallen column.
1. 60m. 6a. Climb the corner to a roof. Make a move rightwards to some fine cracks that lead to a groove. Enter the groove with difficulty, and follow it to the base of the mystery block. (Good belay if using 50m ropes). Climb up and around the block on the right at first, to a good belay on its top.
2. 50m. 6b. Climb the widening crack to the start of the gigantic overhang. Make a tricky move rightwards to gain a back and foot position in the slot (big cams). With difficulty and a wide range of techniques gain the superb continuation of the crack in the headwall. Continue passing one final squirm through a chimney to the top.
J. McCune, T. Prebble. 01/Jul/2013.
Ticklists
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
5 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Fair Head
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Infidel
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Fair Head)