Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
A worthwhile series of variation pitches on the classic Central Rib Route I. Top of the grade and not one for an inexperienced VS leader. Start in the little corner.
1) 4c, 22m. Climb the surprisingly tricky corner to its end and a peg. Transfer to a slabby rib on the right and follow it to another peg below a steep wall. Pull up the wall right of the arete to a thin crack and runner and then reach good holds on a flat block up left before pulling up to less steep ground and a shattered hole. Move up right to a good ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 21m. Climb the arete on the left past a poor peg to a good ledge. Now move up and left along a ledge to a small corner. Climb the corner and blocks to arrive at large ledges and tree belays.
3) 4c, 10m. The line of thin cracks and tiny orange groove in the final headwall are thin to start but ease at mid-height. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Approach from the cubic boulder, follow the path until you reach the wall, a few metres along to the right is a short scramble up to terrace.
Start around 1 metre right of Rib Route I. Follows the rib rather than the crack, but difficult route finding as it's easy to stray onto Route I or III (check the guide book).
The route tops out onto Offa-Dykes path, so descend via Easy Way Down or walk around to Woodcroft Quarry.
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Symonds Yat)