UKC

25m. This route takes a direct line up the left-hand side of the main face, starting about 4m right of Fear Gorta 1, crossing it and Waterloo at mid-height and continuing straight up the steep wall above. Sustained in the upper section but well protected. Start easily up a series of rock steps to the foot of a steep cracked wall, with large sloping shelf on the right. Up the wall with increasing difficulty until an awkward high step leads to a sloping ramp. Move round the corner left to join the steep juggy corner of Fear Gorta 1, and continue up the ramp of Waterloo. Continue straight up the wall above, bridging left into a deep groove at about mid-height and continuing with increasing difficulty to a good flake about 3m from the top. Step left and make one more awkward move up to good jugs and finish.

D Stelfox, P Turley J Caves 08/Apr/1985.

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Route of Interest
Shanghied

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Malinbeg)

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