90m, 3 pitches.
This is a great route that starts just to the right of the calssic corner of "The misunderstanding". The guidebook outlines the first two pitches bu there is a fantastic third pitch in place now. Trad gear only required for the first pitch.
1) Climb up the shallow corner 15 right of The Misunderstanding. Pass two bolts below a roof and make cool moves right to a bolt belay on the arete (5.9)
2) Follow a line of bolts up the face above hopping on and off the blunt arete. The rock requires a little care (5.10b).
3) COntinue up past ten bolts with thin moves on balck varnish around the last three. After the last bolt make thin moves left and pull over onto a ledge and a two bolt anchor (5.10d).
The route can be rapped with a single 70m rope from good anchors at the belays.
1) Climb up the shallow corner 15 right of The Misunderstanding. Pass two bolts below a roof and make cool moves right to a bolt belay on the arete (5.9)
2) Follow a line of bolts up the face above hopping on and off the blunt arete. The rock requires a little care (5.10b).
3) COntinue up past ten bolts with thin moves on balck varnish around the last three. After the last bolt make thin moves left and pull over onto a ledge and a two bolt anchor (5.10d).
The route can be rapped with a single 70m rope from good anchors at the belays.
Swain, Swain 1995.
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Route of Interest
Fiddler on the Roof
Grade: 5.10d ***
(Black Velvet Canyon)