80m.
40 feet right of Glypnod's right-facing corner, and left of Three Pines. Look for the dihedral with a roof.
P1, 5.8 PG: Climb up past the left-facing flake to a ledge at 30', step right, then straight up into an open book / dihedral capped by a roof. Move up and right (exiting left is "thoughtful" and harder), and belay at a stance (80 ft).
P2, 5.5: Climb the face above, diagonaling right on easier rock to the GT ledge.
P3, 5.8 PG: From the GT ledge, traverse to the right a bit and make
delicate moves over to a roof. Face climbing above leads to the top (50 ft). Be careful of large, loose rocks on this pitch.
Ab off in 2 rope lengths - chained belay points
P1, 5.8 PG: Climb up past the left-facing flake to a ledge at 30', step right, then straight up into an open book / dihedral capped by a roof. Move up and right (exiting left is "thoughtful" and harder), and belay at a stance (80 ft).
P2, 5.5: Climb the face above, diagonaling right on easier rock to the GT ledge.
P3, 5.8 PG: From the GT ledge, traverse to the right a bit and make
delicate moves over to a roof. Face climbing above leads to the top (50 ft). Be careful of large, loose rocks on this pitch.
Ab off in 2 rope lengths - chained belay points
Jim McCarthy and Burt Angrist 1965.
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Route of Interest
Psycho Crack Right
Grade: 5.8 ***
(Shawangunks (The Gunks))