UKC

Rockfax Description
An impressive pitch on great rock and with very sustained climbing, although the protection is less than comforting. Start at a thin right-trending crack below a tiny vertical corner at 10m.
Make thin moves up the crack to an easing. Follow the line of intermittent thin cracks 3m right of the tiny vertical corner to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon

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User Date Notes
Trickyw 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Quality E1 climbing on reasonable rock. Protection is hard won and lots of small wires. Micro-wires required for mid-height crux (5b) and these have to be got wherever you can find them as they tend to be flush to the rock (that’s Culm rock remember!). I think you would be ground swooping if these were to fail. Despite this it is well worth the trouble, but just take care.
Show beta
βeta: Quality E1 climbing on reasonable rock. Protection is hard won and lots of small wires. Micro-wires required for mid-height crux (5b) and these have to be got wherever you can find them as they tend to be flush to the rock (that’s Culm rock remember!). I think you would be ground swooping if these were to fail. Despite this it is well worth the trouble, but just take care.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 8
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Oesophagus

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)

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