No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

davkeo 26/Aug Lead O/S

Approach 1.5hrs. 6hr on route. Depart de guides start. First half is quite sustained and airy/bold in spots. Route finding can b tricky. A fine route.

cearbhalld 26/Aug 2nd

Camped at top of Index lift for an alpine start. Started route at 7am. Went off-route trying to lead P3 despite guidebook warning and arrived back at the belay sooner than expected. Retired from pointy end of proceedings after that.

Tim Sparrow 22/Aug -

Made the common mistake of missing the traverse left at Gendarme Wehrlin on the approach and lost a bit of time. 3 French parties followed us and then some serious head scratching from us all until mistake realised. Used Depart des Guides start. Great climbing all way on compact rock, plenty of fixed gear to head for but you need to supplement it too. Felt quite serious on early pitches but relaxed into it. 1 hr 20 summit to Index and made it with 5 mins spare!

with Geoff Thomas
chapmand 31/Jul AltLd O/S

Started climbing at 10am, topped out at 4pm. Back down to the car by 7:30pm after missing the last lift.

plain kitten ??/2015 -
ollyroberts 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S
andrew sandercock 05/Aug/14 AltLd

Slow on the approach due to missing the ramp by the gendarme (a common mistake apparently) and a small wait due to uncertainties about weather. Al lead up until the traverse round the corner (I'm useless at slabs). I lead out the traverse and it began to rain, and continued to pour down on and off for the rest of the route - the face often dripping wet. Managed to pass the difficulties onto easier ground which seem to continue for a lot longer than guidebook suggests (we may have been too far right but reaching the summit still took 3 long pitches - 2 of which 60m). We think the Picola guide's given height of 350m is short, the Rebuffat says 450 and others 400. Return along west ridge was slow as visibility was very low due to low cloud - a problem we'd encountered all day. 15 hours Index - index. Long missed the last bin home. Nb, for those approaching the Pouce; the ramp is to the left of the isolated wehrlin gendarme and marked with cairns - not 20m up like the Picola guide suggests. This will massively reduce the walk in and avoids some rather stressful choss scrambling. Also, the approach can be done without axes or crampons at this time.

with Al Blackshaw
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 AltLd O/S
fulton333 01/Aug/13 AltLd

Fantastic! First lift up and back on the lift at 4.30 despite a route finding error early in the day. The odd bolt here and there but mainly old pegs and trad gear.

with Matt
Hidden 01/Aug/13 -
Hidden ?/Aug/13 2nd
Stuart Johnston 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Did it from first lift. 1.5 hours to base of route. 6.5h for route, 2.5h to traverse the ridge. Ages to walk down to the valley! Lead all but one pitches.

with Sadie Renwick
jcw ??/2013 -
demarcation86 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Took us 9 hours from bivi at col back to the cable car. Good route.

with Monty
monsteratt 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Nice granite slabs, quite bold in places. Good route. Did in good time (9 hours) from a nice, but cold bivi at the col. Back in time for cable car.

with Tom
Mountain Llama 07/Sep/12 AltLd dnf

Approach longer than expected at 2.5hrs and difficulty finding correct descent route from col. Climbing felt quite stiff and gaps between gear placement long on 2nd pitch. Only made it to P5 when Pail took a tumble and broke his ankle.

with Mark & Paul
markfairbank 07/Sep/12 AltLd dnf

EPIC...Dave led first 2 pitches, i then led p3 and 4 which felt like HVS 5a (ish) then Paul took over for p5.... got off route and attempted down climb above gear resulted in ankle breaking fall :( ...MR called out and we got choppered off. Still not sure i can quite believe it!! Upto there it was a great route that was very enjoyable... will go back at some point...

with Paul Sheehan, Dave Brown
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Ashley Hold 28/Aug/12 AltLd
Ewan Russell 17/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

climbed in 2 twos. ended up taking 16 hours got quite lost on way off the ridge and were slow as a 4.

with gwen, james wilson, Anna
Wils 17/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Mike Hood 04/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Drew M ?/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
tumbling wizard ?/Aug/10 -
with andrew marshall
darren hudson 31/Jul/10 AltLd dnf

looks great, had problems finding the route which put us back too late to climb on so bailed and bivied, but weather was against us the next day. Access is important, turned round earlier in week due to wrong equipment. returned with crampons and axes and watched 2 other parties turn round. 2 days later saw people access in trainers after the snow had melted. Big climb.

with David Ford
Brannock ?/Jul/10 Lead
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
Henrik 19/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Josef + Joakim
Andy Clarke 29/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

A superb route and a very memorable big day out. Bivvied at Index the previous evening so we could make an early start - unfortunately, due to me mistranslating the guidebook headed entirely the wrong way along the main ridge. Took several heart-stopping excursions onto uncharted death scree before we realised our mistake. When we finally found it, the climb proved excellent, featuring both bold slabs and pumpy cracks. Took ages to scramble back to main ridge - probably took too high a line (yours truly's route finding again!). 16 hours all told. Second bivvy, feasting on the single Pepperami which was all we had left to eat. Food of champions. Led Ps 3,5&6,8,10,13 (ish).

with Rob
Franco Cookson OLD 31/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

went a bit off route and ended on an Ed f7a, 6c oblig, but managed to get back on to this one with a traverse. did the crux though.:-)

with Ralf
HamishD ?/Jul/08 AltLd

Got a bit off route and had to do any awesome pendulum to get back on route! Really fun route.

with chris burn
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead
liz j ?/Sep/04 2nd
with neil brodie
ian bryant ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with rod
Hidden 16/Aug/02 Lead O/S
dan gibson ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with brian(aussie)
Hidden ?/Jul/02 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/98 -
Hidden 23/Jul/98 AltLd O/S
Guy ?/Aug/97 AltLd O/S
with Adrian
Brian Rodgers ??/1995 -
with Conor Boyd
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 17/Sep/92 AltLd

Fantastic Experience w Tom and Danny

auld al ?/Jul/92 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/91 AltLd O/S

Beautiful route.

with Ellie Barnes
Hidden ?/Aug/86 AltLd
Nevil ?/Sep/80 -

Could have been Aug

with Steve
granitbahn ?/Aug/75 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ella7, gavinpeach, iceaxejuggler, Hidden, Hidden
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set