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|Devon > Berry Head (The Old Redoubt) >
|Yardarm|| E3 5b|
<< Warspite in brief
|45m. The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational and non-tidal pitch. Competent seconds and some prusiks are essential. Done in a single-pitch, the grade is more like E3 due to communication and rope management difficulties. Start above the steep section of the descent route to the Great Cave where a right to left weakness gains access to the headwall..
1) 5a, 22m. A stiff pull up into the depression is followed by a rising leftward traverse for 15m to a belay at a thread on the edge of the arete..
2) 5b, 35m. Make a hard move down left to enter the bottomless bay to the left which is crossed to airy moves up the arete and into a hanging groove. Climb the groove to a roof and make the crux move past its left edge to easier ground and belays on ledges above. Walk off to the right. © ROCKFAX|
A fabulous climb with scary "out there" positions at an amenable grade. Non-tidal too, so you have no excuses. Probably E2 5B if you split the pitch. Seconds need to be as competent as the leader for this one. Take your prussiks!
Pat Littlejohn & Dave Roberts 04/Aug/1977
Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.
This climb is in 11 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.
Lead 1st pitch. Epic pumpy traverse with great holds and lots of cam placements.
R2B - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with John Stuart
Hidden - 2012
nick arding - Lead rpt - 16/Oct/11 with Philippa Arding
Philippa Arding - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with nick arding
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11
Lovely climb perfect day
robbie Warke - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/11
shark - Lead - 12/Sep/86 with Minky
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/86
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1985 with Ian Milne
stp - 1983
Hidden - Lead - Sep/79
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ben Russell, Hidden, Hidden