Yardarm** E2 5b

Rockfax Description
The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational and non-tidal pitch. Competent seconds and some prusiks are essential. Done in a single-pitch, the grade is more like E3 due to communication and rope management difficulties. Start above the steep section of the descent route to the Great Cave where a right to left weakness gains access to the headwall.
1) 5a, 22m. A stiff pull up into the depression is followed by a rising leftward traverse for 15m to a belay at a thread on the edge of the arete.
2) 5b, 35m. Make a hard move down left to enter the bottomless bay to the left which is crossed to airy moves up the arete and into a hanging groove. Climb the groove to a roof and make the crux move past its left edge to easier ground and belays on ledges above. Walk off to the right. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A fabulous climb with scary "out there" positions. Non-tidal too, so you have no excuses. The pegs are rotten but the gear is adequate gear but it's hard to place. Probably just worth E3 even as 2 pitches. Seconds need to be as competent as the leader for this one. Take your prusiks!

Pat Littlejohn & Dave Roberts 04/Aug/1977

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

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This climb is in 16 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

More amenable than expected
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Mark

In 2 pitches. E2, 5b.
Avon Man - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with msoldn

amazing route.good climbing.wouldnt want to lead it.
alice fuller - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/14 with kafoozalem

Led P2.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2014 with Colin

Lead 1st pitch. Epic pumpy traverse with great holds and lots of cam placements.
R2B - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with John Stuart

Hidden - 2012

nick arding - Lead rpt - 16/Oct/11 with Philippa Arding

Philippa Arding - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with nick arding

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11

Lovely climb perfect day
robbie Warke - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/11

andy gittins - AltLd - 1998 with Mark Carnall

shark - Lead - 12/Sep/86 with Minky

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/86

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1985 with Ian Milne

stp - 1983

Steve Bell - Lead - Sep/79 with Jon Grubb

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Total votes cast 16
hard E30 of 6
E30 of 6
easy E34 of 6
hard E20 of 6
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hard E10 of 6
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hard 5a0 of 5
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3 Stars3 of 5
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