|45m. The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational and non-tidal pitch. Competent seconds and some prusiks are essential. Done in a single-pitch, the grade is more like E3 due to communication and rope management difficulties. Start above the steep section of the descent route to the Great Cave where a right to left weakness gains access to the headwall..
1) 5a, 22m. A stiff pull up into the depression is followed by a rising leftward traverse for 15m to a belay at a thread on the edge of the arete..
2) 5b, 35m. Make a hard move down left to enter the bottomless bay to the left which is crossed to airy moves up the arete and into a hanging groove. Climb the groove to a roof and make the crux move past its left edge to easier ground and belays on ledges above. Walk off to the right. © ROCKFAX|
A fabulous climb with scary "out there" positions. Non-tidal too, so you have no excuses. The pegs are rotten but the gear is adequate gear but it's hard to place. Probably just worth E3 even as 2 pitches. Seconds need to be as competent as the leader for this one. Take your prusiks!
Pat Littlejohn & Dave Roberts 04/Aug/1977