Rockfax Description
The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational and non-tidal pitch. Competent seconds and some prusiks are essential. Done in a single-pitch, the grade is more like E3 due to communication and rope management difficulties. Start above the steep section of the descent route to the Great Cave where a right to left weakness gains access to the headwall.
1) 5a, 22m. A stiff pull up into the depression is followed by a rising leftward traverse for 15m to a belay at a thread on the edge of the arete.
2) 5b, 35m. Make a hard move down left to enter the bottomless bay to the left which is crossed to airy moves up the arete and into a hanging groove. Climb the groove to a roof and make the crux move past its left edge to easier ground and belays on ledges above. Walk off to the right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A fabulous climb with scary "out there" positions. Non-tidal too, so you have no excuses. The pegs are rotten but the gear is adequate gear but it's hard to place. Probably just worth E3 even as 2 pitches. Seconds need to be as competent as the leader for this one. Take your prusiks!

Pat Littlejohn & Dave Roberts 04/Aug/1977

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

msoldn 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

More amenable than expected

with Mark
Avon Man 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

In 2 pitches. E2, 5b.

with msoldn
alice fuller 25/Sep/14 2nd O/S

amazing route.good climbing.wouldnt want to lead it.

kingholmesy ??/2014 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

with Colin
R2B 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch. Epic pumpy traverse with great holds and lots of cam placements.

with John Stuart
Hidden ??/2012 -
nick arding 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Philippa Arding
Philippa Arding 16/Oct/11 2nd
with nick arding
Hidden 30/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
robbie Warke 16/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Lovely climb perfect day

andy gittins ??/1998 AltLd
with Mark Carnall
FATBOYFAT ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Al Brady
shark 12/Sep/86 Lead
with Minky
Hidden 07/Sep/86 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
stp ??/1983 -
Steve Bell ?/Sep/79 Lead
with Jon Grubb
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
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High E1
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Votes cast 6
High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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