Devon > Berry Head (The Old Redoubt) >
Yardarm*** E3 5b

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45m. The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational and non-tidal pitch. Competent seconds and some prusiks are essential. Done in a single-pitch, the grade is more like E3 due to communication and rope management difficulties. Start above the steep section of the descent route to the Great Cave where a right to left weakness gains access to the headwall.. 1) 5a, 22m. A stiff pull up into the depression is followed by a rising leftward traverse for 15m to a belay at a thread on the edge of the arete.. 2) 5b, 35m. Make a hard move down left to enter the bottomless bay to the left which is crossed to airy moves up the arete and into a hanging groove. Climb the groove to a roof and make the crux move past its left edge to easier ground and belays on ledges above. Walk off to the right. © ROCKFAX
A fabulous climb with scary "out there" positions at an amenable grade. Non-tidal too, so you have no excuses. Probably E2 5B if you split the pitch. Seconds need to be as competent as the leader for this one. Take your prussiks!
Pat Littlejohn & Dave Roberts 04/Aug/1977

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

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This climb is in 11 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Lead 1st pitch. Epic pumpy traverse with great holds and lots of cam placements.
R2B - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with John Stuart

Hidden - 2012

nick arding - Lead rpt - 16/Oct/11 with Philippa Arding

Philippa Arding - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with nick arding

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11

Lovely climb perfect day
robbie Warke - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/11

shark - Lead - 12/Sep/86 with Minky

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/86

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1985 with Ian Milne

stp - 1983

Hidden - Lead - Sep/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ben Russell, Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 10
hard E40 of 4
E40 of 4
easy E40 of 4
hard E30 of 4
E30 of 4
easy E34 of 4
hard E20 of 4
E20 of 4
easy E20 of 4
hard 5c0 of 3
5c0 of 3
easy 5c0 of 3
hard 5b3 of 3
5b0 of 3
easy 5b0 of 3
hard 5a0 of 3
5a0 of 3
easy 5a0 of 3
3 Stars3 of 3
2 Stars0 of 3
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0 Stars0 of 3
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