Yardarm*** E3 5b
45m. The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational and non-tidal pitch. Competent seconds and some prusiks are essential. Done in a single-pitch, the grade is more like E3 due to communication and rope management difficulties. Start above the steep section of the descent route to the Great Cave where a right to left weakness gains access to the headwall.. 1) 5a, 22m. A stiff pull up into the depression is followed by a rising leftward traverse for 15m to a belay at a thread on the edge of the arete.. 2) 5b, 35m. Make a hard move down left to enter the bottomless bay to the left which is crossed to airy moves up the arete and into a hanging groove. Climb the groove to a roof and make the crux move past its left edge to easier ground and belays on ledges above. Walk off to the right. © ROCKFAX
A fabulous climb with scary "out there" positions. Non-tidal too, so you have no excuses. The pegs are rotten but the gear is adequate gear but it's hard to place. Probably just worth E3 even as 2 pitches. Seconds need to be as competent as the leader for this one. Take your prusiks!
Pat Littlejohn & Dave Roberts 04/Aug/1977

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 15 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

More amenable than expected
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/14

Led P2.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2014 with Colin

Lead 1st pitch. Epic pumpy traverse with great holds and lots of cam placements.
R2B - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with John Stuart

Hidden - 2012

nick arding - Lead rpt - 16/Oct/11 with Philippa Arding

Philippa Arding - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with nick arding

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11

Lovely climb perfect day
robbie Warke - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/11

andy gittins - AltLd - 1998 with Mark Carnall

shark - Lead - 12/Sep/86 with Minky

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/86

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1985 with Ian Milne

stp - 1983

Hidden - Lead - Sep/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Voting
Total votes cast 13
hard E40 of 5
E40 of 5
easy E40 of 5
hard E30 of 5
E30 of 5
easy E34 of 5
hard E20 of 5
E20 of 5
easy E21 of 5
hard 5c0 of 4
5c0 of 4
easy 5c0 of 4
hard 5b3 of 4
5b1 of 4
easy 5b0 of 4
hard 5a0 of 4
5a0 of 4
easy 5a0 of 4
3 Stars3 of 4
2 Stars1 of 4
1 Star0 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
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