Restricted Access
Reported loose rock on Jefferson Slab
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Last Butt One Level:
Choughs are now in the broken area to the left of Uluru Magic and right of Rejoice. There is no restriction on climbing at present but please avoid this area and keep noise to a minimum. Due to an increase in roosting birds, please avoid climbing during dusk (1hour before sunset).
Level 3:
A new pair of choughs are nesting on the left-hand side of this level. Please avoid all routes to the left of Cubism Groove
Rockfax Description
This route begins at a belay at the lower-off of Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy. Traverse left to flakes and then up the steep wall and sloping finish to a bolt belay. Either abseil off or make an easy scramble up to the level above - care with the rock needed. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1) 2a, 28m. Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy
2) 6c, 14m. From the belay, make a cool traverse out leftwards to gain the flakes, and head directly up to the really cool and gently overhanging headwall which is split by a distinctive diagonal crack. Tackle the headwall by slapping up the left arête to an awkward sloping finish. Bolt belay, either abseil off or make an easy scramble up to the level above taking care of the loose blocks.
FA. Ian Lloyd-Jones 2014.
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Guidebooks for Penmaenbach Quarry
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Route 3
Grade: 6c ***
(Castle Inn Quarry)