Gwynedd > Clogwyn y Garnedd >
 
Cave Gully** III 4

Adjacent Climbs
<< Cave Gully Left Wall
 
Cave Gully Right Wall >>
[Approaching the spider, 1 kb]A brilliant route, but one that can have a problematic middle pitch in soft snow conditions 1) 2, 45m. Follow the deep gully to a belay beneath an overhang 2) 4, 20m. Battle past the overhang via a steep groove on the left and continue to a cave 3) 2, 60m. Climb leftwards from the cave belay to gain easier ground and the ridge. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

Photo: Approaching the spider © robblowen
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 48 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Nice, plastic water-ice on the crux by the cave. Didn't feel like tech 4.
Pete_Frost - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13

suffolknick - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with clams

Middle pitch (my lead) desperate but good fun! Never done those moves before!
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with megan

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Michael Stephenson

Best day out winter climbing yet. Lead both pitches after seconding Dave on CG Left Wall and Gwyn Ein Byd.
JezH - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Dave Smith

Jillybean - AltLd - 23/Feb/13 with Dan Butler

mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with mike moss

clams - Lead - Feb/13 with NB

frost - Solo - 13/Dec/12

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Dec/12

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/12 with Paul Beacall

Excellent route, really enjoyed this one. We solo'd up to the steep ice pitch then i led it in to the cave. Ice was quite thin but just enough there to make it OK. The cave belay is awesome!
George_Surf - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/12 with Stephen Keyes

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Fantastic route!!!
robblowen - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/11 with John

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/11

Thin on the crux, involved 2 axe pull up as restricted to the confines of the corner. Gear good.
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 03/Jan/11 with Ian Owen

Hidden - 2011

Tim Sparrow - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/10

rob k - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with J Gorman

George Ormerod - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/10 with Roger

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/10 with George

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Mar/10

Jedi Soloed. Cracking route in good nick.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Solo - 06/Mar/10 with Jurgen

Hidden - Solo - 06/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Feb/10

Nice but for all the wind and spindrift. Ice pretty thin.
willson - AltLd - 23/Feb/10 with Wills, ben

Soloed up to small over hang, Diccon lead to cave, I then lead to top. Conditions lean ice with 2cm of fresh snow on top, we were the 1st party up the route since the snow had fallen, the cornice was 2m high.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Diccon Proctor

Lean low down with thin iced rock at the small overhang (definetly solid IV+ in that nick)with a mix of good and poor snow ice above. Soft and powdery at the top, no cornice to speak of, just a small lip.
Jules_odor - AltLd - 18/Feb/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Feb/10

BorisVBlade - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Daniel Wong

Hidden - Solo - 22/Mar/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/05

Hidden - Mar/04

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Dec/96

michael burrows - Solo - 02/Apr/96 with richard parry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/94

Hard exit from the cave on water ice.
bms - 2nd - Feb/91 with BCS

5 routes in a day & this was the best. Had to jam the pick over a jammed nut as the ice was rather thin on the crux!
Sean Kelly - Lead - Jan/91 with John Hynes

I soloed this with my left wrist in plaster.
ChrisJD - Solo - 13/Dec/87

Nick Biven - Solo - 08/Mar/86

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/86 with ian nettleton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, CM1992, iksander, PanzerHanzler, Ewan Russell, Joss, Mike Parker, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 44
hard IV0 of 20
IV0 of 20
easy IV1 of 20
hard III10 of 20
III8 of 20
easy III1 of 20
hard II/III0 of 20
II/III0 of 20
easy II/III0 of 20
hard 50 of 5
50 of 5
easy 50 of 5
hard 40 of 5
44 of 5
easy 40 of 5
hard 31 of 5
30 of 5
easy 30 of 5
3 Stars4 of 19
2 Stars14 of 19
1 Star1 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent

Soloed9 of 48 (18.8%)
Lead6 of 48 (12.5%)
Followed3 of 48 (6.2%)
Alt Leads23 of 48 (47.9%)
Unknown7 of 48 (14.6%)

'Climbed'25 of 48 (52.1%)
clean O/S22 of 48 (45.8%)
clean rpt1 of 48 (2.1%)