UKC

Restricted Access

Some good exciting routes from HVS to E5 but needing a bit of traffic to clean them up. North-facing sea cliff plus one route on the sea stack. Abseil descent.

There is a seasonal restriction for cliff nesting birds 1st March to 1st August and the area is also used by seals for pupping in the autumn - please minimise disturbance - do not climb near NE side of crag if seals in the cove immediately east of the crag.

Access is sensitive here so please keep a low profile.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing 1st March - 1st August inclusive. There is also a problem with general access at present as the landowner is not happy with climbing taking place on this cliff. Negotiations are ongoing. Please keep a low profile and do not place any fixed gear including stakes, pegs or slings.

55m. An excellent entertaining adventure which just merits the grade. Start on a small non tidal ledge stepped down and right from the Krakatoa belay. Climb diagonally right to a deep crack. Follow this to a tricky traverse line right to a larger crack which is followed to the top passing a small roof.

FA. P.Donnithorne, A.Mulholland 13/Aug/2011.

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Route of Interest
Swordfish

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)

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