5 hours from bergschrund to summit. Descent by milieu glacier
Tom Cox - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14
SteveJCox - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Tom Cox
Dug a four man snow hole at the foot of the couloir(3200m, lookers left). Simul-climbed whole route with no difficulties, waterfall at start but two easy mixed steps. Good snow/neve on route, best high up. Took right hand exit. Emerging onto the ridge is an elegant finish.Descended down the Milieu to GM mid station. 700m ascent(3 hrs), 2000m descent (6hrs).
ndraper1 - 06/Jul/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14
Moved together but belayed a couple of times to swing the leader
thomaspomfrett - AltLd - 01/Jul/13 with Will Groat
Simul-climbed the whole way with two technical ice axes. Avalanche prone conditions (half frozen wind slabs above the bergschrund above Milieu glacier) on the way down made descent particularly difficult. This climb is overrated, rather boring.
efetunc - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Rafal Malczyk
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/13
Moved together. Variable snow conditions... icy runnels and unconsolidated banks. Interesting descent down Milieu Glacier headwall in soft snow.
Strachan - 01/Jul/13
Rafal Malczyk - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Efe Tunc
stanleynkk - AltLd - Jun/13 with Oliver Alderman
jcw - 2013
alasdair19 - 2013
Retreat due to poor weather
ianstevens - AltLd dnf - 27/Aug/12
ashtond6 - Lead - 19/Jul/12
Phoebus - Lead - Jun/12
QuentinSu - Solo O/S - Mar/12
Kris - Solo - Mar/12
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 13/Aug/11
Bergschrund was too big and wet at 4:00am due to very warm weather preceeding the attempt.
efetunc - AltLd dnf - Aug/11 with Andrew Asaam
mark_jc - Jun/11
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with S.Bennett
AndrewJenkins - 2008
We simul-soloed this route as we felt speed would ensure safety and the snow and ice conditions were excellent. A nice snow climb.
LakesWinter - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/01 with Wil
adamwesthead - Lead O/S - Dec/00 with Hoult
Hidden - 30/Jul/00
Jim Walton - AltLd - 20/Jul/98 with Matthew Stammers
djdavies - 2nd - 08/Jul/93
Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/89
Rob Kennard - Aug/88 with Ian Lees