From the Argentiere hut make an early start as the climb faces SE. Climb the true right bank of the Amythests Glacier until under the couloir. Cross the bergschrund (often tricky) and enter and climb the 45 degree snow couloir. Follow the East ridge to the top with little difficulty

H Camare Jul/1922

Ticklists: Top quality Alps under 4000m.

Tom Cox 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

5 hours from bergschrund to summit. Descent by milieu glacier

SteveJCox 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Cox
ndraper1 06/Jul/14 -

Dug a four man snow hole at the foot of the couloir(3200m, lookers left). Simul-climbed whole route with no difficulties, waterfall at start but two easy mixed steps. Good snow/neve on route, best high up. Took right hand exit. Emerging onto the ridge is an elegant finish.Descended down the Milieu to GM mid station. 700m ascent(3 hrs), 2000m descent (6hrs).

Hidden 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
thomaspomfrett 01/Jul/13 AltLd

Moved together but belayed a couple of times to swing the leader

with Will Groat
efetunc 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Simul-climbed the whole way with two technical ice axes. Avalanche prone conditions (half frozen wind slabs above the bergschrund above Milieu glacier) on the way down made descent particularly difficult. This climb is overrated, rather boring.

with Rafal Malczyk
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Strachan 01/Jul/13 -

Moved together. Variable snow conditions... icy runnels and unconsolidated banks. Interesting descent down Milieu Glacier headwall in soft snow.

Rafal Malczyk 01/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Efe Tunc
stanleynkk ?/Jun/13 AltLd
with Oliver Alderman
jcw ??/2013 -
alasdair19 ??/2013 -
ianstevens 27/Aug/12 AltLd dnf

Retreat due to poor weather

ashtond6 19/Jul/12 Lead
BenFitzG ?/Jun/12 Lead
QuentinSu ?/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Kris ?/Mar/12 Solo

Ski descent

Hidden 13/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 13/Aug/11 AltLd
efetunc ?/Aug/11 AltLd dnf

Bergschrund was too big and wet at 4:00am due to very warm weather preceeding the attempt.

mark_jc ?/Jun/11 -
Ollie B 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

moved together.

with S.Bennett
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
LakesWinter 12/Jul/01 Solo O/S

We simul-soloed this route as we felt speed would ensure safety and the snow and ice conditions were excellent. A nice snow climb.

with Wil
adamwesthead ?/Dec/00 Lead O/S
with Hoult
Hidden 30/Jul/00 -
Hidden 20/Jul/98 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jul/89 AltLd
Rob Kennard ?/Aug/88 -
with Ian Lees
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