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Y couloir** AD

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Flèche Rousse Ridge (East-South-East Ridge) >>
[Absolutely gassed at the top of the Y couloir, 3 kb]From the Argentiere hut make an early start as the climb faces SE. Climb the true right bank of the Amythests Glacier until under the couloir. Cross the bergschrund (often tricky) and enter and climb the 45 degree snow couloir. Follow the East ridge to the top with little difficulty
H Camare Jul/1922

Ticklists: Top quality Alps under 4000m.

Photo: Absolutely gassed at the top of the Y couloir © Tom Cox
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

5 hours from bergschrund to summit. Descent by milieu glacier
Tom Cox - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14

Dug a four man snow hole at the foot of the couloir(3200m, lookers left). Simul-climbed whole route with no difficulties, waterfall at start but two easy mixed steps. Good snow/neve on route, best high up. Took right hand exit. Emerging onto the ridge is an elegant finish.Descended down the Milieu to GM mid station. 700m ascent(3 hrs), 2000m descent (6hrs).
ndraper1 - 06/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Moved together but belayed a couple of times to swing the leader
thomaspomfrett - AltLd - 01/Jul/13 with Will Groat

Simul-climbed the whole way with two technical ice axes. Avalanche prone conditions (half frozen wind slabs above the bergschrund above Milieu glacier) on the way down made descent particularly difficult. This climb is overrated, rather boring.
efetunc - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Rafal Malczyk

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/13

Moved together. Variable snow conditions... icy runnels and unconsolidated banks. Interesting descent down Milieu Glacier headwall in soft snow.
Strachan - 01/Jul/13

Rafal Malczyk - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Efe Tunc

stanleynkk - AltLd - Jun/13 with Oliver Alderman

jcw - 2013

alasdair19 - 2013

Retreat due to poor weather
ianstevens - AltLd dnf - 27/Aug/12

ashtond6 - Lead - 19/Jul/12

Phoebus - Lead - Jun/12

Ski descent
Kris - Solo - Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 13/Aug/11

Bergschrund was too big and wet at 4:00am due to very warm weather preceeding the attempt.
efetunc - AltLd dnf - Aug/11 with Andrew Asaam

mark_jc - Jun/11

moved together.
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with S.Bennett

AndrewJenkins - 2008

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/01

adamwesthead - Lead O/S - Dec/00 with Hoult

Hidden - 30/Jul/00

Jim Walton - AltLd - 20/Jul/98 with Matthew Stammers

djdavies - 2nd - 08/Jul/93

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/89

Rob Kennard - Aug/88 with Ian Lees

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, tompilgrem, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 7
hard AD+0 of 4
AD+0 of 4
easy AD+0 of 4
hard AD0 of 4
AD4 of 4
easy AD0 of 4
hard AD-0 of 4
AD-0 of 4
easy AD-0 of 4
3 Stars0 of 3
2 Stars1 of 3
1 Star2 of 3
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 27 (7.4%)
Lead5 of 27 (18.5%)
Followed1 of 27 (3.7%)
Alt Leads11 of 27 (40.7%)
Unknown8 of 27 (29.6%)

'Climbed'16 of 27 (59.3%)
clean O/S8 of 27 (29.6%)
dnf3 of 27 (11.1%)