Y couloir** AD
[Absolutely gassed at the top of the Y couloir, 3 kb]From the Argentiere hut make an early start as the climb faces SE. Climb the true right bank of the Amythests Glacier until under the couloir. Cross the bergschrund (often tricky) and enter and climb the 45 degree snow couloir. Follow the East ridge to the top with little difficulty
H Camare Jul/1922

Ticklists: Top quality Alps under 4000m.

Photo: Absolutely gassed at the top of the Y couloir © Tom Cox
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This climb is in 29 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

5 hours from bergschrund to summit. Descent by milieu glacier
Tom Cox - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14

SteveJCox - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Tom Cox

Dug a four man snow hole at the foot of the couloir(3200m, lookers left). Simul-climbed whole route with no difficulties, waterfall at start but two easy mixed steps. Good snow/neve on route, best high up. Took right hand exit. Emerging onto the ridge is an elegant finish.Descended down the Milieu to GM mid station. 700m ascent(3 hrs), 2000m descent (6hrs).
ndraper1 - 06/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Moved together but belayed a couple of times to swing the leader
thomaspomfrett - AltLd - 01/Jul/13 with Will Groat

Simul-climbed the whole way with two technical ice axes. Avalanche prone conditions (half frozen wind slabs above the bergschrund above Milieu glacier) on the way down made descent particularly difficult. This climb is overrated, rather boring.
efetunc - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Rafal Malczyk

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/13

Moved together. Variable snow conditions... icy runnels and unconsolidated banks. Interesting descent down Milieu Glacier headwall in soft snow.
Strachan - 01/Jul/13

Rafal Malczyk - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Efe Tunc

stanleynkk - AltLd - Jun/13 with Oliver Alderman

jcw - 2013

alasdair19 - 2013

Retreat due to poor weather
ianstevens - AltLd dnf - 27/Aug/12

ashtond6 - Lead - 19/Jul/12

Phoebus - Lead - Jun/12

QuentinSu - Solo O/S - Mar/12

Ski descent
Kris - Solo - Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 13/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Aug/11

Bergschrund was too big and wet at 4:00am due to very warm weather preceeding the attempt.
efetunc - AltLd dnf - Aug/11 with Andrew Asaam

mark_jc - Jun/11

moved together.
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with S.Bennett

AndrewJenkins - 2008

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/01

adamwesthead - Lead O/S - Dec/00 with Hoult

Hidden - 30/Jul/00

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/98

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/89

Rob Kennard - Aug/88 with Ian Lees

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