It is usually best when leaving from the Trient Hut to walk towards the Col du Tour and then skirt round below the frontier ridge to the base of the peak (1hr). Halfway up NE ridge, between the deep gap seperating the 2 summits and the S top, is a shoulder. Climb the face directly to this and follow the crest to the top. 2hr from the Trient hut, 3.5hr from the Albert Premier.

JonmapDL 12/Aug AltLd O/S
with Catrin, Liam Ingram
Liam Ingram 12/Aug -

Terrifying rimaye. Lovely scramble afterwards

with Catrin Nichols, Jonathan De Leyser
catrin289 12/Aug -
the ant hill mob 11/Aug Lead
with Mike Harper, Jessica Crump
Jessicacrump 11/Aug 2nd
Hidden 31/Jul -
Hidden 31/Jul -
anthonylewis 21/Jul -

Via col sup du tour.

Hidden 21/Jul AltLd O/S
ned_85 07/Jul -
AndrewP 03/Jul Lead

From Albert Premier hut, via Col Sup. du Tour. Easy glacier walking but with a big scary bergschrund this year. Took a direct line on the rock for fun - approx. HS.

with Sam Peterken, FelixPeterken
Steve Kempley 01/Jul -

From Trient Hut, great weather, down via Alb Premier. To get to Trient Hut, walked over Fenetre Arpette, stayed in Relais Arpette, up from Champex and past Orny Hut.

with Frances Diffley
Hartz ?/Jul -

with Johan

TAG_UTLEY 30/Jun -

Conville Course. Left at 04.45 from Albert 1er and back to the hut by about 11.00. Good conditions although very warm, with soft snow in places.

with Georgia
Hidden 30/Jun -
Hidden 30/Jun -
danieleaston 28/Jun AltLd dnf
with Ray
duncanedgley 12/Jun -


with Emily Ford
Wendy Watthews 09/Jun -

As part of the conville corse. Left the Albert hut at 4 o'clock was back at the valley base for 2. Great intro to the Alps.

with Luke, joe c
lukegorman 09/Jun -

we climbed moving together for the most part. using natural pro on the rocky parts

JoeCoxson 09/Jun -

Done with the Jonathan Conville course. Hiked up to the Albert Premier hut from the valley the day before. Set off early on the day, getting to the Col de Tour for about sunrise. Moved roped together for the easy scramble to the top. Stunning views good company

jac00 04/Jun Solo
with Mike
chris67 10/Sep/14 -
with Isaac
lanky and weak 08/Sep/14 -
with Jason King
Hidden 05/Sep/14 AltLd
CallumSmith 16/Aug/14 Solo
JackM92 12/Aug/14 Solo
Hidden 08/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/14 -
joelevanschamonix 31/Jul/14 Solo β

Ran from chair lift. 4.20h return. great conditions

benny_m 25/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
with Holly, Sean Chu, Su
Senna 25/Jul/14 -
Hidden 25/Jul/14 2nd O/S
jhobbs 15/Jul/14 -
Harvdog 15/Jul/14 -
mrmattwright 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Very mellow route to the summit via a variation of the normal route, which made for a bit more interest. Lots of snow so did the whole thing mixed and returned via voie normal. Long walk to Champex. Ouch.

with Adrian Fletcher
Street 23/Jun/14 2nd
Jack Whiteley 17/Jun/14 AltLd

Intro course. With Johnny (guide), Chris and Alex. Moved as 4 on glacier from Orny Hut. I lead Alex and I up final rock scramble.

with Alex Prettyman
Hidden 17/Jun/14 AltLd
adamwesthead 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Dads first Alpine summit on the 58th birthday.

with Dad, Forshaw
garethm 13/Sep/13 -
Dan818 03/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

We set off at 5am from Le Tour, via Albert 1'er. 2000m up and down in 13.5 hours, this is do-able but not recommended. Realistically we were passing the bergschrund too late in the day and it was probably unstable, a better plan would be to stay at or bivi close to the Albert 1'er or better still an excellent bivi site would be the Col sup du Tour (bring plenty of water as non available after Albert 1'er and the snow is very dirty in summer) and then its only 400m and around 2 hours up in the morning, you don't even need to get up early! And you can comfortably make the valley on descent by early afternoon.

Ly-Cilph 03/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

13hrs return from Le Tour - quite the day out!

with Dan L
Chris dyer 03/Sep/13 2nd O/S

First alpine summit! We bivi near the hut, summited at 09:00 and were back in chaminox for beer for 17:00

with Jack Hunter, Oli Foxlow
Braintax ?/Sep/13 -
jac00 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Solo
bullwinkle 20/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Simon
JasonV 20/Aug/13 -
HJSmith 20/Aug/13 -
Dan0Me 19/Aug/13 AltLd
with Chris Hill
Hidden 17/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 17/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Gompertz 12/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Left Trient refuge 6am, reached summit 8am, fabulous views. Leave unnecessary kit beyond bergschrund to pick up on way back.

James Charatan 12/Aug/13 Lead
JimboWizbo 03/Aug/13 -

4AM Breakfast at Albert 1er, summit at around half 7, back in the valley by 12.

with Beth
Hidden 03/Aug/13 -
andyinglis 28/Jul/13 -

Via col du sup du tour. Highlight of the day was watching some italian guy send his rucksack cartwheeling down the slope into a crevase.

with Monica
Hidden 26/Jul/13 -
hedgehog_john 26/Jul/13 -
Hidden 26/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Bruce S 26/Jul/13 2nd O/S
r.greaves 19/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead
laurence_falconer 02/Jul/13 -
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead
kelly_426 ?/Jul/13 -
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
Happy Haggis 26/Jun/13 -

Lovely climb in stunning conditions.

Robbo1 26/Jun/13 -
The Patriot 25/Jun/13 -

Climbed with Steve Tonge.

eurasia 21/Jun/13 -

Alpine start from Albert Premier hut.

leowestland ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Sam Cooke 15/Sep/12 -
Hidden 15/Sep/12 -
stevetheleg 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rosie Lyle, Hal Roberts, Sam Cooke
masmith 15/Sep/12 AltLd
with Nathan Magnall, Jack Williams
jack.williams1 08/Sep/12 -
Sam Simpson 02/Sep/12 -
alias dave 02/Sep/12 Solo O/S
with Sam.EB
timofy ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/12 -
pc1983 26/Aug/12 -

Really enjoyable climb, mainly in good weather although there was no visability on the top so couldn't appreciate the exposure.

Jim Brownlow 11/Aug/12 AltLd

In descent

with Nigel Edley, Iain Mount
JKBowers 06/Aug/12 AltLd
with Antonia Hawker, Ben Bennet
robjdc 05/Aug/12 -

Reached Col Superieur du Tour but had to retreat due to storm. Excellent day

with Wessex
Hidden 05/Aug/12 -
Bilbo 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Bright moonlight made head-torches unnecessary from the Albert Premier hut to the glacier (30 mins). Surface of glacier frozen and firm at 06:00 despite recent very warm daytime temperatures. Straightforward ascent via Col Superior du Tour. 6 hours 15 mins total time from the glacier up and back down, despite being congested on the final scramble and South summit (plenty of rockfall caused by clumsy ropes above, particularly in descent. Good day out for Tom and Josh's first alpine peak. Great lunch back at the hut then descended the direct path all the way to Le Tour (2 hours from the hut).

with Josh, Tom Braggins
Gareth T 27/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Tim Popplestone
Hidden 13/Jul/12 AltLd
sjbrook 10/Jul/12 -
with PMC
Dave Richards 10/Jul/12 -
zcsharp 09/Jul/12 AltLd
with James, Mark
masmith 09/Jul/12 AltLd
with James Matthews, Jamie Roberts
jimmatthews 09/Jul/12 AltLd

Bivvid by Hut

Hidden 05/Jul/12 -
gravity 05/Jul/12 AltLd
with Ian Lau, Yvonne, Manik
JenEvans ?/Jul/12 2nd O/S
trivett 29/Jun/12 -

decent route, very easy....

with Jane Marsh, Tom Stewardson
Katherine Ross 29/Jun/12 2nd O/S

In descent from Table Couloir.

Webster 28/Jun/12 Solo O/S


adam 24 22/Jun/12 AltLd

Took a variation up the first col - more like AD that way

pzkeeper 19/Jun/12 -

4.30am start from AP hut. Decent in very soft snow.

with Paul S
Hidden 18/Jun/12 Solo
Wils 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/12 -
Mike Hood 15/Jun/12 AltLd
pyjamaboy ?/Jun/12 -
Hidden ?/Jun/12 -
ian.ross.bnc ?/Jun/12 -
Hidden 13/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
android_lloyd 30/Aug/11 -
norb 25/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Somerset swede basher 16/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

In descent after the Table du Roc Ridge.

with Jon Miles
Phil Murray 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S

5am start from hut. Bergschrund fine - snow covered. Took direct route up to summit and easy descent across face. Unbelievable views & weather. Messed up descent as tried to find Col du Tour not Col Sup de Tour - the former is not an option despite the 1:25k map showing routes over there ..... guidebooks are better!

with Helen, Liz
Krellen ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 -
Poco Loco 27/Jul/11 Lead


with SarahF
Hidden 25/Jul/11 -
Hidden 25/Jul/11 -
tompilgrem 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

First alpine Summit.

bobpilgrem 21/Jul/11 -

First alpine summit- 5 AM start from Albert Premier Hut- snow plod with a nice bit of mixed on final ridge.

with Bob/Tom
Hidden 16/Jul/11 Lead
Doughnut 16/Jul/11 2nd
Stewart B 11/Jul/11 Solo

In descent

TimPerkin 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Nick King, Derek Buckle
Hidden 05/Jul/11 -
GOS 04/Jul/11 -

roped scramble as part of Mountaineering Ireland alpine training course

ferdia 04/Jul/11 2nd


with Hertha, Marcus, Calum
Hidden 01/Jul/11 -
solfreak 01/Jul/11 Solo

Very easy, loads of people in the hut, on the way up, on the summit and on the way down.

Happy Haggis ?/Jul/11 -
Robbo1 ?/Jul/11 -
Hidden 28/Jun/11 -
DigitalSteak 25/Jun/11 Lead
mattrm 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S

On the Conville course, guided by Dave. But we did move together ourselves, Dave wasn't on the rope. Great summit, amazing day. Can't wait to do it all again some time. From the Albert Premier hut. Took three hours to summit. Two hours back to the hut.

Hidden 20/Jun/11 AltLd
jac00 17/Jun/11 -
with Tom
monkeyboyraw 08/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

From Albert prem via super col(given PD) then to south summit via good scrambling, descended via this route

with Stroudy
Avinash Aujayeb 01/Jun/11 2nd O/S
gingerking ?/Jun/11 -

Amazing - first proper alpine route!

e.sunnyside ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with George
tomtom89 ?/Jun/11 -
with Jack
Mr Messy ?/Jun/11 -
with Dave F, Janet
Dan0Me ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with Laurence, Daniel Smedley
Hidden ??/2011 -
adam clarke 06/Sep/10 -
with Steve Millns, Daniel Holyoake, James Heptonstall
r_o_b_h2 ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/10 -
dscnly 21/Aug/10 2nd

Stuart's first alpine lead

with Stuart
StevieB125 09/Aug/10 -
with Boris Lorencic, Orly Friedman, Mark Brogan, Adam George, Dave Park, Ross McInally
cham749 08/Aug/10 -
with Ash Edwards, Charlie Burbridge
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
K Farrell 30/Jul/10 Solo O/S
with Imogen Beal
augustus trout 28/Jul/10 Solo
CWMulcahy 27/Jul/10 -

From Albert Premier hut.

Hidden 16/Jul/10 -
Jack Loftus 09/Jul/10 -

Did as part of the conville course.

thetradlad 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/10 -
Hidden 07/Jul/10 Solo
stephenmckenzie 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Done from Albert Premier Hut on Conville Course.

with Andy Teasdale, James Chesmer, Ben Jeffreys
Hidden 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ben ski 02/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

On Jonathan Conville course.

chris67 02/Jul/10 2nd O/S

First Alpine climb, on Conville course from Albert Premier Hut

KevinJ 01/Jul/10 AltLd
with Nige H
Rose Williams ?/Jul/10 -

did as part of the conville course with emma and claire

sweenyt ?/Jul/10 AltLd


Hidden 29/Jun/10 AltLd
Clay C 29/Jun/10 -
mark_chal 25/Jun/10 2nd O/S

as part of conville course

SaraAT 22/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Andrew_ing 22/Jun/10 -
Petarghh 22/Jun/10 -
tskelhon 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
JYates 22/Jun/10 2nd
with conville
Hidden 22/Jun/10 -
philbish 22/Jun/10 -
Dan_Staff 08/Jun/10 -
Darrell Read 08/Jun/10 -
Hidden 08/Jun/10 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
vincentvega 07/Sep/09 Lead
with jeff, danny robb, kevin k
Sam-westcott ?/Sep/09 -
Hidden 15/Aug/09 -
EddieA 12/Aug/09 Solo O/S

Beautiful day; shared the summit with an entire regiment of the French army on a training exercise. Roped up with two English guys for the glacier walk back to Albert 1 hut

Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead
Sam-westcott ?/Aug/09 -
Hidden ?/Aug/09 2nd
Teappleby ?/Aug/09 AltLd
with mum, Sarah, dad
benny_m 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/09 -
Timo Austino 20/Jul/09 Solo

Nice trip out - fun scramble to the top. The table coulouir was way too patchy so maybe next year

barney800 14/Jul/09 -

Did it with a guide on a Conville course. Excellent introduction to Alpinism and a nice, straightforward climb in its own right. Weather started off a bit dodgy but cleared on the Trient Plateau.

with Phil Dowthwaite, James Brae, Tom Dudley
tdudley 14/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite, James Brae, James B
Hidden 11/Jul/09 -
Simon Hodgson 10/Jul/09 -
JCB42 10/Jul/09 AltLd

Did it on the Conville Course. Was roped together with Chris, separate from our guide. Was good fun!

t_stork 09/Jul/09 AltLd

In descent

with Marcus Brown
tsl42 ?/Jul/09 2nd β
with Conville peeps
matt_ringrose ?/Jul/09 Lead

climbed on the Conville Course

with Tom Dewhurts
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
tomtom89 ?/Jul/09 -
thecurlyone ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Liam McGuane
Olli-C ?/Jul/09 -
with Niall, dad
Hidden 30/Jun/09 -
Dave Foster 25/Jun/09 -
with Sandra
Chumpatus 25/Jun/09 -
with dave
ajsteele 08/Jun/09 -
Richard Holowka ?/Jun/09 -

First Alpine stuff.

goatee ?/Sep/08 Solo

An interesting encounter with a crevasse while returning is something I won't forget any day soon. I prefer to be roped up on a Glacier now.

Hidden 29/Aug/08 2nd O/S
smolders 24/Aug/08 2nd
with Patrick G, Fabian S
sopaz 21/Aug/08 -
KatieG 10/Aug/08 -
dansmonkeytroubles 01/Aug/08 AltLd
cmsg 01/Aug/08 -

Guided ascent as part of the Conville Trust skills course.

Alpandy ?/Aug/08 Lead
with Si and Dave
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd
davidrj1 ?/Aug/08 AltLd

Straight forward introduction to alpinism. Bit of a scramble at the top. We bivied out up from the hut, some fantastic spots. Cloudless sky...will never forget it!

JHolland ?/Aug/08 -
Kate Edhouse 29/Jul/08 Solo

first alpine route

with James Clapham
Hidden 29/Jul/08 AltLd dnf
andymoin 29/Jul/08 AltLd dnf

Stormed off!

with Conville
Hidden 22/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/08 AltLd
Gav Parker 15/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 08/Jul/08 -
davefount ?/Jul/08 -

Ascent in poor visability, an intresting route considering its an F

with Glyn, Clive and Chris
Matthallinan ?/Jul/08 -
jimsrankin ?/Jul/08 AltLd
with Mel
garythomas ?/Jul/08 -
with Andy Cave
will5001 ?/Jul/08 Solo
JdotP ?/Jul/08 -

First alpine route without a guide :)

with James Gelling, Jonny Marsh
Hidden ?/Jul/08 -
Glyn 27/Jun/08 -
Hidden 24/Jun/08 -
Hidden 04/Jun/08 2nd
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
nickdonohue ?/Oct/07 Lead
with Colin Morrison
chadrads 15/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with sean veal, andy lacy, steve monks
sean72 15/Aug/07 AltLd
with Chadrads (Peter),Andy Lacy,Steve Monks
dpe ?/Aug/07 -
Teappleby ?/Aug/07 AltLd dnf
with mum, Sarah, dad
Mike-W-99 25/Jul/07 -

Most of France seemed to be here but the weather was excellent.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 25/Jul/07 AltLd

Busy busy...silly busy but then it was the only safe route after the 30cm of snow that fell the previous day.

with Mike
Andy Clarke 25/Jul/07 Lead
with StewartD, RobD
richw2k2 23/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Monika
Moniawl 23/Jul/07 2nd
with rich
Hidden 21/Jul/07 Lead
TGreen 16/Jul/07 Solo O/S


Hidden 13/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jul/07 AltLd
Jenko 01/Jul/07 Solo
with TJ
Hidden ?/Jul/07 -
Rosie Henstock ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
cheekyboy ?/Jul/07 -
with Dave Stead
Ed Saint ?/Jul/07 -
sargy 29/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

the culmination of our Conville Course. Roped with Ed Braithwaite, Matt Glenister, and our Conville instructor- Willy

with Ed Braithwaite
Hidden 13/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/07 -
mmalbon ?/Jun/07 -

Attempted this just after 1m snow fall which slowed us right down. We got to the Col du Tour and farted round there for ages climbing up a steep snow gully that was full of very wet soft snow.

with Simon
Lear ?/Jun/07 -
with Tom G, Lizzy, Callum, Evon, Victoria, Tom S
alpboy57 ?/Sep/06 -
with Tom, Neil
Hidden ?/Aug/06 2nd O/S
winter_burn 21/Jul/06 -
with tom
Hidden 20/Jul/06 2nd
stephmonks 18/Jul/06 -
Will Smith 10/Jul/06 -

Climbed from Albert 1er hut. Nice glacier snow plod, followed by short rocky scramble. Descended across plateau to Trient hut.

with Jonny and Didiere
JonBrett 10/Jul/06 Solo
BazVee 08/Jul/06 2nd
with Peter & Barry H
Simon K 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with PR
Rob84 ?/Jul/06 -
with Drew and Ben
Watty 30/Jun/06 2nd
with Mark & A.Watt
dellboy ?/Jun/06 -
Sankey 11/Aug/05 Solo
with Andy E
kleinej ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Matt, Brian, Patrick
Stefan ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
paddygoodwin ?/Aug/05 Lead
with Jason
tobydunford 29/Jul/05 2nd O/S

My first real alpine experience, simply wonderful, nice hut, great company, great weather, lovely climbing.

with Johnathon Conville Trust
Hidden 22/Jul/05 -
Hidden ?/Jul/05 -
sebastien ?/Sep/04 Lead

Mist, thunder, rolling rocks and a partner who wishes she was not there... Apocaliptic sunrise though. Correction:'you don't mention WHY I wished I weren't there: walking on iron rocks when there's lightning all around!!! Like this it looks as if I were a sissy!... '

with Kathia P.
chrissloan84 ?/Jul/04 -
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead
alan.rodger 30/Jun/04 2nd
with stephen venables, jon morgan
Ross Barnes ?/Jun/04 -
with Andy I, Neil A
tom_holdsworth 18/Sep/03 -
with Will Taylor
JuneBob ?/Aug/03 -
Danhan 12/Jul/03 -
reg_measures 04/Jul/03 -
with steve burdett
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead
abbeywall ?/Jul/03 -
with K
andyinglis ?/Jun/03 -
with Tom Dunstan, ruth gibson
industrialiceman 13/Aug/02 2nd
Stuart Macfarlane 01/Aug/02 AltLd
with Andy W
John Andrew Simpson ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Yan
tom_holdsworth 25/Jul/02 -
Tubroos! ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S

Descent after climbing up via Col Purtscheller / S ridge. Busy!

with Kate Lloyd
net ?/Aug/01 -
with Ellie
LakesWinter 16/Jul/01 AltLd

Too much frsh snow for the forbes arete on the Chardonnet so we did this instead and it was hard work wading through half a metre of powder.

with Wil
paul birch ?/Jul/01 -
Hidden ?/Jun/01 2nd dnf
rlrs ?/Aug/99 -

In descent

fizzy_elephant ?/Aug/98 -
with Roger
Richard Alderton ??/1998 -

Conville course

with Giblet
surfdad ??/1998 -
tomkhoward ??/1997 Solo O/S

Training with Peter Cliff (guide) - BMC Conville Course

with Nick (SICMC)
cem ?/Jul/96 -
Laramadness 05/Aug/94 -
with RF
kristian ?/Aug/93 -
cragspud ??/1993 Solo O/S
CMacD ??/1991 -
John Southworth ?/Jul/89 -
auld al ?/Aug/88 2nd O/S
99bolivar ?/Aug/87 Solo
with David Smith
Pete Pozman 02/Aug/86 -

In descent after summiting via Table du Roc

with John Byrne
biggianthead 26/Aug/84 -
with G
Hidden ?/Jun/84 AltLd
auldscotal ??/1984 Lead O/S

Ascended couloir, descended normal route. Not sure if year is right.

with Ian Redpath
Bolt Phobia ?/Jul/78 Lead


Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
philmitch, Matthew Martin Wsm, Hidden, dan wisey, Hidden
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