83m, 3 pitches.
Approach as for Ordinary Route and start at the pedestal.
1.) 30m (4b), climb straight upwards via several steep little walls to belay on a block above the traverse of ordinary route.
2.) 26m (4c), climb the steep slab above to pass the left hand end of the overlap with caution – possible belay to the right. Climb straight up the slab above to belay in a niche above and left of a steep patch of grass.
3.) 27m (4c), climb the right slanting groove until 4m below the large down pointing spike. Traverse delicately left to a quartz ledge and up a faint rib to a jutting block. Belay above at the left hand end of the large capping roof of the slab.
The route manages to avoid most of the current routes by climbing directly up the centre of the slab (crosses the direct route in a few places). There is a quantity of suspect rock at the overlap halfway up pitch two.
1.) 30m (4b), climb straight upwards via several steep little walls to belay on a block above the traverse of ordinary route.
2.) 26m (4c), climb the steep slab above to pass the left hand end of the overlap with caution – possible belay to the right. Climb straight up the slab above to belay in a niche above and left of a steep patch of grass.
3.) 27m (4c), climb the right slanting groove until 4m below the large down pointing spike. Traverse delicately left to a quartz ledge and up a faint rib to a jutting block. Belay above at the left hand end of the large capping roof of the slab.
The route manages to avoid most of the current routes by climbing directly up the centre of the slab (crosses the direct route in a few places). There is a quantity of suspect rock at the overlap halfway up pitch two.
J Martin, M Gutteridge 26/May/2007.
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Route of Interest
Pinky
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns))