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|Cumbria > Eagle Crag (Grisedale) >|
|Doctor's Grooves|| HS 4b|
<< Good Friday
High Girdle >>
|5 pitches. This is a very varied route, and much more technical than the HS grade would suggest. All of the pitches would benefit from a gentle brushing, as loose dried lichens were a common feature underfoot in April 2009. Otherwise a classic mountaineering expedition.
The Ash tree mentioned in the guidebook as the first belay is barely attached now. Its roots aren't even solid enough for a good stance.
Pitches: 1 = a few balancy moves to lack of Ash tree. (good nut belay in foot of pitch 2 preferred) 2 = short, awkward off-angle chimney, then good holds to ledge. 3 = a few off-balance moves in 30 metres of (lichenous) slabs (poor gear). 4 = a string of bold moves to gain further slabs, then short, airy traverse to corner. 5 (or merge into 4) = gently overhanging corner - pumpy for the grade - on good holds. Easy ground to distant belay.
Any one else think that this one deserves HVS (maybe VS after cleaning)? |
This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.
A good mountaineering route (ie with some walking in the middle). Better than the more popular stuff to the left!
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/04 with Carmen
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 2002 with Steve Pollington, Rab Cunningham
Hidden - 2000
Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/96 with Tony Morris
Iain Thow - AltLd - 27/Jul/96 with Alex Doherty
beaumap - AltLd - Feb/89 with Tim Waddington
biggianthead - 16/Jul/83 with M
Bob - Solo O/S - 18/Jul/82
leland stamper - AltLd - May/77
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/75
Users with this climb on their wishlist are: