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Doctor's Grooves* HS 4b

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5 pitches. This is a very varied route, and much more technical than the HS grade would suggest. All of the pitches would benefit from a gentle brushing, as loose dried lichens were a common feature underfoot in April 2009. Otherwise a classic mountaineering expedition. The Ash tree mentioned in the guidebook as the first belay is barely attached now. Its roots aren't even solid enough for a good stance. Pitches: 1 = a few balancy moves to lack of Ash tree. (good nut belay in foot of pitch 2 preferred) 2 = short, awkward off-angle chimney, then good holds to ledge. 3 = a few off-balance moves in 30 metres of (lichenous) slabs (poor gear). 4 = a string of bold moves to gain further slabs, then short, airy traverse to corner. 5 (or merge into 4) = gently overhanging corner - pumpy for the grade - on good holds. Easy ground to distant belay. Any one else think that this one deserves HVS (maybe VS after cleaning)?
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

A good mountaineering route (ie with some walking in the middle). Better than the more popular stuff to the left!
Toreador - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/04 with Carmen

Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 2002 with Steve Pollington, Rab Cunningham

Hidden - 2000

Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/96 with Tony Morris

Led 1,2,4&5
Iain Thow - AltLd - 27/Jul/96 with Alex Doherty

beaumap - AltLd - Feb/89 with Tim Waddington

biggianthead - 16/Jul/83 with M

Bob - Solo O/S - 18/Jul/82

Voting
Total votes cast 6
hard VS0 of 2
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