UKC

5 pitches. This is a very varied route, and much more technical than the HS grade would suggest. All of the pitches would benefit from a gentle brushing, as loose dried lichens were a common feature underfoot in April 2009. Otherwise a classic mountaineering expedition.
The Ash tree mentioned in the guidebook as the first belay is barely attached now. Its roots aren't even solid enough for a good stance.
Pitches: 1 = a few balancy moves to lack of Ash tree. (good nut belay in foot of pitch 2 preferred) 2 = short, awkward off-angle chimney, then good holds to ledge. 3 = a few off-balance moves in 30 metres of (lichenous) slabs (poor gear). 4 = a string of bold moves to gain further slabs, then short, airy traverse to corner. 5 (or merge into 4) = gently overhanging corner - pumpy for the grade - on good holds. Easy ground to distant belay.
Any one else think that this one deserves HVS (maybe VS after cleaning)?

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Route of Interest
Bridge's Route

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Esk Buttress (Dow Crag))

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