Devon > Berry Head (The Old Redoubt) >
 
Magical Mystery Tour 1*** 6a+

Adjacent Climbs
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Magical Mystery Tour 2 (Blue Grotto pitch) >>
340m. DWS F6a+ and S1 if you follow the Rockfax description which extends section 1 with extra shenanigans inside the Blue Grotto. The original section 1 was at climbed with ropes at HVS 5a (VI) and the Blue Grotto was passed by swimming/Tyrolean. Take a low tide with you if you want to avoid swimming past the Green Grotto. Alternatively try safer but harder variations at a higher tide and swim past this cave. The cave sections can feel a lot harder on humid days.
R.Baillie, J.Cleare (31st Dec 1967). FFA Frank Cannings & Peter Biven 03/Jan/1968

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, West Country Climbs, South coast sport/DWS ticklist.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 236 logbooks, and on 36 wishlists.

James Mitchelmore - Solo rpt - 06/Oct/13

Amazing. Lots of wet holds and swimming. Very well named.
Chubbard - Solo - 21/Sep/13 with Paz

Mass traverse by SDMC - we had 10 climbers: Joe, Chawn, David, Ben, Laura, Mark, Tim, Steve, Hector and myself.
petecallaghan - Solo - 15/Sep/13

Left to right - Wow!
timreynolds - Solo - 14/Sep/13

Hidden - Solo rpt - 14/Sep/13

Fantastic - fell at the crux and bailed out after a quick try at the Blue Grotto. Good incentive to get fit again.
Phil79 - Solo - 14/Sep/13 with Steve H

Hidden - Solo O/S - 03/Sep/13

Brilliant! A huge thanks to the two guys Tom and Simon who arrived at the same time and gave Hamish and I all the beta. Would have had a few more dips in the sea otherwise! Clean on the way there, fell into the sea on the way back. Tom pointed out a beautiful large jellyfish which was good to see.
andrea83 - Solo β - 31/Aug/13 with Hamish

Thanks to Simon and Tom, I could not have done this without you.
Hamish777 - Solo β - 31/Aug/13 with Andrea

Did it 2 hours after low tide. Fell in twice, great fun. Much less scary once you've fallen in once.
ledifer - Solo O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Dave

what an adventure!
grey wolf - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/13

Even better than the last time, turns out we finished in the wrong place the first time, the correct finish is even better. So so good.
thedoctorisin - Solo rpt - 26/Aug/13 with ro jones, chris scutt

Super cool and accessed at high tide with feet getting wet at beginning. Variety of routes to make it harded but take a dry bag to cross a section in the middle without getting your chalk wet.
northcave - Solo O/S - 26/Aug/13

went in the sea twice
ian d f - Solo O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Pete H

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/13

chrisscutt - Solo rpt - 25/Aug/13 with ro, oly

An EPIC adventure!
red_rhodesha - Solo - 25/Aug/13 with Olly, Chris Scutt

Great fun but pulled a hold off and landed badly on some rocks because of a low tide, perfect on a mid/high tide I would say
BenNorman - Solo O/S - 24/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo dnf - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Aug/13

What a brilliant adventure! I would recommend this to absolutely anyone.
R2B - Solo O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Matt W

Hidden - Solo - 10/Aug/13

Started at the great cave one hr after high tide. Mostly 2 or 3m above the water. Juggy steep solid rock. Swam green and blue grotto and jumped in once. Water even felt warm 1 st time. Jellyfish. An hr later could have stepped across the green grotto. Awesome.
petegruf - Solo - 10/Aug/13 with julia k

Hidden - Solo rpt - 10/Aug/13

Super low spring tide made it very exciting today, but plenty of low barnacle options, and walking through the green grotto was a novelty. Gave up part way through blue grotto, after a long days climbing.
Chad123 - Solo rpt - 08/Aug/13

sgl - Solo - 08/Aug/13 with ben, emily

andy south devon - Solo O/S - 08/Aug/13

Brilliant! despite man eating seals circling waiting for me to fall off ;)
Gilster - Solo - 07/Aug/13 with James, Ethel

Hidden - Solo RP - 03/Aug/13

Left to right. Ace. Started by going through the Blue Grotto, finished at the great cave. Swam green grotto but otherwise dry. Very sociable fun day out.
AJM - Solo β - 03/Aug/13 with Stuart Fox, Tom Lambert

Hidden - Solo O/S - 03/Aug/13

Excellent fun and only swam the Blue and Green Grottos. Wearing a wetsuit made for maximum barnacle protection but minimum style.
Tubs - Solo - 03/Aug/13 with Stuart, AJM

dave657 - Solo O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Alys, Mike

Sophie Nunn - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/13 with Rob, Mel B, Rich P, Martin

Souljah - Solo - 03/Aug/13 with Gus, Andi, Paul

Rob84 - Solo - 03/Aug/13 with Martin, Sophie, Mel, Rich Patterson

Tom Livingstone - Solo O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Dan Lane

Great fun. At no point is it too hard, though there is a couple of very steep sections. A nice dip in the sea the end before climbing out to cool down. A great adventure going to some really cool places. How amazing is the Old Redoubt!?
Dan Lane - Solo O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Tom Livingstone

James Mitchelmore - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/13

a splashdown at the crux due to very slippery conditions
noelj - Solo - 2013

Hidden - Solo - 30/Dec/12

westaway - Solo - 30/Dec/12

jcook1980 - Solo - 14/Oct/12 with Leo

leohl - Solo - 14/Oct/12 with Jonathon Cook

Tried to get onto Moonraker, but tide too high to solo in with ropes and gear. Dumped the kit and did this instead. Great fun and much harder than last time I did it as the tide was higher. Great moves and steeeep in places!
andy_pemberton - Solo - 30/Sep/12 with Dan Lear

AndyBryce - Solo - 21/Sep/12 with Oliver Whitby

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Sep/12

Hidden - Solo rpt - 15/Sep/12

tom169 - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Amy, Darren

Hidden - Solo rpt - 09/Sep/12

Left to right. Rather damp in the caves but great route
Tim M - Solo O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Frank

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/12

best fun climbing ever didn't really do it properly got very wet and had fun swimming :)
Wendy Watthews - Solo - 08/Sep/12 with arandall

Swam all of the difficult bits, was brilliant fun. Shame there isn't a solo/swim option :)
arandall - Solo - 08/Sep/12 with Wendy Matthews

More of an experience than a "route". Stunning, great day out.
thedoctorisin - Solo - 01/Sep/12 with chris scutt

kit fell in! mega lulz
rustaldo - Solo O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Jack S, Kit Perry

brices - Solo O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Jamie, Jack, Gav

Fell in on the crux. Will teach me to not go climbing for a while!
Chris Perry - Solo - 01/Sep/12 with Matt Rust

chrisscutt - Solo - 01/Sep/12 with oly

Laurence Everitt - Solo O/S - 26/Aug/12

Hidden - Solo β - 26/Aug/12

With a swim across the Blue Grotto and finishing through the Green Grotto. Excellent!
theotherpetehill - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/12

Hidden - Solo - 22/Aug/12

Lowish neap tide, just got past green grotto without a swim with some very bunched silliness, low variants on most sections, awesome route!
Justin T - Solo O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Mark Bullock

Sophie Nunn - Solo rpt - 04/Aug/12

Mr Powly - Solo - 03/Aug/12 with Ian B, Hertha, Rozzy

burto - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/12 with liz, tom powell, mike, rozzy, hertha

Hidden - 03/Aug/12

Hidden - Solo - Aug/12

First DWS, Dogged lovely hot day lots of swimming
Hertha - 08/Oct/11 with Burto

tide was so low the entire thing was on barnacles. not nice.
Jonathan Emett - Solo dnf - 02/Oct/11

Hidden - Solo - 02/Oct/11

Rubbish! Whole thing on barnacles at a spring low tide, and after all the rubbishness we still had to swim, what a let down :(
TCCB - Solo O/S - 02/Oct/11

burto - Solo O/S - 01/Oct/11 with hertha

Helens 1st DWS. Did on a low tide. One section before the crux steep over rocks - worrying. Got to crux over on the arete and went too high into the corner over the ledges then ran out of gas before working out how to go low - splash! Helen followedsoon afterward. Swam to next exit. Fantastic swim around the blue grotto with a seal. As Arnie said 'I'll be back'.
philhilo - Solo dnf - 01/Oct/11 with Helen E

Fell off on 2nd crux, swam last part due to really low tide. Bloody awesome though!
JonHarvey - Solo dnf - 29/Sep/11 with Gid, Dave Moir

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Sep/11

gidmord - Solo dnf - 29/Sep/11 with John, dmoir

Hidden - Solo - 28/Sep/11

Compo - Solo O/S - 26/Sep/11 with Kaveh, Kev Faux

Hidden - Solo - 26/Sep/11

Kevster - Solo O/S - 26/Sep/11

One of my best climbing experiences so far. Stayed dry until the swim across blue grotto. Managed to just cross green grotto low down without getting wet. One really strenuous section around an overhang on big holds where Jamma took a dip. A fitting end to a magical south west tour.
domskezz - 24/Sep/11

A truly awesome crag and location. Also an excellent introduction to DWS. Did enjoy despite repeated falls into the sea- Sept produced a not too unpleasant temperature as long as the wind isn't blowing... definitely be back perhaps same time next year to do it dry to the end.
krispy_fish2000 - 24/Sep/11

TerryLines - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

Cailean Harker - Solo O/S - 23/Sep/11

Perfect state of the tide - just after high tide. We traversed into the blue grotto at the lower level and made the bridge across to the other side (just), then out again, to traverse to green grotto.
petecallaghan - Solo O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Chris Ebbutt

Blue grotto to great cave no falls dry (swim green grotto)Got tide level spot on after Saturday, start at high tide gives good water in blue grotto, rising traverse to bigger holds on crux wall and still enough water for high level in great cave. Recommend morning start at blue grotto exit, on a 4m/3.8m high tide, head north to great cave swim green grotto with chalk bag on head.top quality adventure, positions and joy.
chris ebbutt - Solo - 18/Sep/11 with Pete

fell off in blue grotto, to high on guano buttress fell off, going south to north starting at exit of blue grotto, finishing at great cave.
chris ebbutt - Solo - 17/Sep/11 with Stuart

So cool. Alone @ 0730 on a sunday morning. Blue Grotto solo is a special place to be. Do it.
Graham Atkins - Solo O/S - 04/Sep/11

with Ami, Jo, Will, Adele, Paul and Dan. Tide a bit low, wet in places, fell off a few times - principally after getting pumped on some insanely overhanging low variation. Gotta go back for the redpoint! Amazing!
Stone Muppet - Solo - 03/Sep/11

fell in a few times mainly around crux pitch
Dritz186 - Solo RP - 03/Sep/11

Haha, absolutely bloody magnificent! Glad it's not S3 as i'd have two broken legs by now. I fell in so much :) what a quality experience though, about mid tide, which seems like a good time to do it, but who knows, I spent half my time disappearing under water! One of the best routes ever.
Tom Last - Solo - 02/Sep/11 with Jamie Maddison

Hidden - Sent O/S - 02/Sep/11

davidliu - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Ed Jenner

tedj234 - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/11 with davidliu

Oddjob - Solo β - 29/Aug/11

timrowland - Solo - 29/Aug/11 with Rob H, jmjw

Awesome!
skittles - Solo - 28/Aug/11 with Andy Hext, Will Johnson

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - Solo dnf - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - Solo RP - 24/Aug/11

Amazing rock! Perfect water a few hours from high tide. 3 hard bits, firstly traversing the wet starting cave, second swinging round a big hanging block, and last going round a steep arete (splash oops) lovely rock high up but probably easier to stay low.
AlexD - Solo - 22/Aug/11 with Ceri

richiebongo - Solo O/S - 22/Aug/11

The best 6a+ ever? Scary bits - wet bits. A couple of steep bits, a very scary step across to the other side of the grotto. Managed to rip a jug off an easy section and go swimming...
James Oswald - Solo O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Chris White

Reverse to the blue cave, then back out again. Impressively greasy, but awesome!
jacobjlloyd - Solo - 20/Aug/11

nutcracker - Solo - 20/Aug/11 with Mark Barrett

Marky B - Solo - 20/Aug/11 with nutcracker

saet1a - Solo O/S - 19/Aug/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Aug/11

Amazing! Very low tide
lukehodson - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Charlotte Latter, Dave Bone, Steve, Mel, Charlotte

Felt easy today with plenty of rests waiting for Mallard! Also felt a lot higher above low spring tide! Still uber fun...
Chad123 - Solo rpt - 13/Aug/11 with Jo

40min completion. need to step it up a gear to get sub-30min!
thomb - Solo rpt - 09/Aug/11 with Andrew

I_hang_dog - Solo O/S - 07/Aug/11

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 06/Aug/11

Ben Harper - Solo β - 06/Aug/11

Hangover must have raised the grade - sweating out Jagermeister.
Motown - Solo - 05/Aug/11

Hidden - Solo - 03/Aug/11

AWESOME. Crux was going around the savage overhang for me, fell twice with wet hands and holds, made it on the third attempt but fell again due to being too pumped. Swam a few small sections to avoid climbing above rocks/shelves. Lovely warm up coming out of the great cave, pumpy but easy. Nice swim back too. Low tide. Very happy I got to do this before I leave the UK
Cheese Monkey - Solo - 01/Aug/11 with Goss

oooeese - Solo β - 31/Jul/11

quiffhanger - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/11

Pete Scott - Solo dnf - 31/Jul/11 with John kay, Tom Blight, Marcus Brewer

omniscient_penguin - Solo dnf - 31/Jul/11

amazing traverse through the cave, stunning views and great fun, a tad sketchy on the climb down to the start, a few bits of old gear to hang onto:)
paul reah - Jul/11

Great fun!!
Marcus Brewer - Solo dnf - 2011 with Pete Scott

Hidden - Solo - 25/Oct/10

Hidden - Solo - 20/Sep/10

Mike W - Solo O/S - 20/Sep/10

RedFox - Solo - 19/Sep/10 with Tom K

Fell in just after the overhang,Pumped out and fell.
Popkids - Solo - 18/Sep/10 with Kafoozalem

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Sep/10

Silum - Solo - 13/Sep/10 with AJ, Emma, Lewis, Ed

brilliant!
Jonathan Emett - Solo O/S - 12/Sep/10 with crispin

Toby Dunn - Solo - 12/Sep/10

coombs - Solo - Sep/10

Hidden - Solo - Sep/10

Bristoldave - Solo O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Andy

jakenichol - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/10

Rob Laird - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - Solo rpt - 29/Aug/10

mr random - Solo RP - 29/Aug/10 with Ian Peg, Rob Laird-

Got wet, much to others amusement! We were up down and all over the place. Awesome fun.
catt - Solo - 28/Aug/10 with George, Will, Hardin

Wow. 400m of adventure. Obviously the best bit was watching Iain fall in on Hardin's 6b+ variant that we all followed ;o) Oh, that and the swim at the end. Stonking and unmissable...
Wilbur - Solo O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Hardin, George, Iain

irish paul - Solo O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Sarah Joyce

Hidden - Solo rpt - 28/Aug/10

Got pumped silly after what I think was the crux, and then went swimming.
mark schramm - 22/Aug/10 with Chris E, steve P

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Aug/10

My first DWS route. Simul-soloed with Dan in high tide. The crux was hard and scary, as there was a good chance to hit the rock in a fall. Fantastic mega route!!
masa-alpin - Solo O/S - 19/Aug/10 with Dan W

some climbing... some swimming... loads of fun!
bercolano - Solo - 15/Aug/10

Greasier than last time, Em did well to on-sight it all....
Chad123 - Solo rpt - 13/Aug/10 with Emily

a mind bendingly good route
Alex More - Solo O/S - 12/Aug/10

MH123 - Solo - 11/Aug/10 with Jack Folland, Sam Farnsworth

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with sam farnsworth

noelj - Solo O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Mal

DWS - life changing!!!
Wendy - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Tom Ball

francois - Solo rpt - 08/Aug/10 with Catherine, Doug

No swimming - incredible route.Four stars!
sparkass - Solo O/S - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - Solo - 08/Aug/10

Swam the Green grotto, tide too high for climbing. As the guide says, a life changing experience
Shaw Brown - Solo - 07/Aug/10 with Loz

Great fun though felt hard for 6a+! (was high tide though) One quick swim past the green grotto. Went off route a few times which increased the pump!
Chad123 - Solo O/S - 05/Aug/10

Hidden - Solo - 03/Aug/10

tuftynick - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/10 with nick warren

Ceridwen - Solo rpt - 01/Aug/10

Sophie Nunn - Solo O/S - 01/Aug/10

Went to high on crux, then too low. Hope to sort it this summer.
Motown - Solo dnf - Aug/10 with Jim

joshen - Solo - Aug/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - Aug/10

Brilliant. A Must do... made even more spicy by the enforced swim at the end
georgel - Solo O/S - 27/Apr/10 with will

jld579 - Solo O/S - 2010

Hidden - Solo RP - 2010

Hidden - Solo - 26/Sep/09

Done on a high neap tide. Will try the Green Grotto through route next time!
francois - Solo O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Chawn, Ben

Hidden - Solo O/S - 07/Sep/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 07/Sep/09

First DWS experience, sweeet
suffolknick - Solo - 06/Sep/09 with luke

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Sep/09

lukewilliams - 05/Sep/09

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 05/Sep/09 with michael porter

loadsa fun
Helen Gibson - Solo - 05/Sep/09 with mikey P, dan

Hidden - Solo - 29/Aug/09

thomb - Solo O/S - 28/Aug/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/09

being pumped beyond belief resulted in a good fall from the crux
henbot - Solo - 19/Aug/09 with Hendo Henderson + Macca

James Mitchelmore - Solo O/S - 17/Aug/09

msoldn - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/09 with Pau, Jason

tuftynick - Solo rpt - 09/Aug/09 with nick warren

Greg Pittam - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/09

Fantastic. The roof near the beginning is by far the best part. We did the green cave extension involving the high step across = 1 fall. Did on low spring tide.
nblackbeard - Solo - 08/Aug/09 with Darren Russell & Jo Bulger

jbulger - Solo - 08/Aug/09 with Darren Russell and Nick Blackbeard

dmoir - Solo O/S - 07/Aug/09 with Mayer, Lauran, Tanner, Ceri, Paddy

Lauren Davies - Solo O/S - 07/Aug/09 with Dave and Mayer

Milnes - Solo O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Ben O'Connor

JPGR - Solo O/S - Aug/09 with Steve Ahern

Hidden - Solo - Aug/09

Grabtheslab - Solo - 20/May/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 28/Sep/08

Brown - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/08

Hidden - Solo - 17/Aug/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Aug/08

Bern - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/08

incredible
Greg Pittam - Solo RP - 01/Aug/08

_m.cox_ - Solo O/S - Aug/08

Boy - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Solo - 18/Sep/07

lukewilliams - 15/Sep/07

Jus - Solo O/S - Sep/07

Hidden - Solo - 31/Aug/07

One fall plus one jump. Done on a low spring tide so a lower line than the usual one. Awesome fun, keen to go back and do again at different tide levels in future!
AJM - Solo - 30/Aug/07 with Alex Gaastra, Tim Wait

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Aug/07

Hidden - Solo - 27/Aug/07

Dhonny_Jaws - Solo O/S - 27/Aug/07 with AJ, Andrew Porter, Michael Porter

Ace fun.
stp - Solo - 23/Aug/07

Marti999 - Solo β - 05/Aug/07 with Joff Cook

bigie bob - Solo O/S - 05/Aug/07

feeko - Solo O/S - 05/Aug/07

lukewilliams - 05/Aug/07

feilx - Solo O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Richard Horn

Richard Horn - Solo O/S - 04/Aug/07

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/06

Bern - Solo - Aug/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - May/06

Mickdenali - Solo - 2006 with Richard Lake-Bullen

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/05

Tim Steward - Solo - 01/Aug/04

jonnie3430 - Solo O/S - 01/Aug/04 with Rich, Neil

Fair amount of swimming
Okecroak - Solo - 18/Aug/02 with C. Ebbutt

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Mar/88

shark - Solo O/S - 26/Oct/87

Nick Biven - 1980

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Voting
Total votes cast 82
hard 6b0 of 38
6b3 of 38
easy 6b3 of 38
hard 6a+28 of 38
6a+3 of 38
easy 6a+0 of 38
hard 6a1 of 38
6a0 of 38
easy 6a0 of 38
3 Stars43 of 44
2 Stars0 of 44
1 Star0 of 44
0 Stars1 of 44
Bag of .....0 of 44
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Style of ascent

Soloed215 of 236 (91.1%)
Lead4 of 236 (1.7%)
Bouldered1 of 236 (0.4%)
Alt Leads2 of 236 (0.8%)
Unknown14 of 236 (5.9%)

'Climbed'91 of 236 (38.6%)
clean O/S99 of 236 (41.9%)
clean β8 of 236 (3.4%)
clean rpt22 of 236 (9.3%)
clean RP6 of 236 (2.5%)
dnf10 of 236 (4.2%)