Via Lusy Pompanin*** IV-
[Topout waves, 1 kb]

Rockfax Description
An very popular route up the arete and north face of Torre Lusy. Good rock and plentiful fixed gear lead to a lovely little summit, with an exciting hanging abseil down the other side. Worth a queue or two...
Start to the right of a cave at the left side of Torre Lusy.
1) IV-, 25m. Climb direct, aiming for a niche above. Move left around the niche and climb towards the arete Move back right to a stance below a sloping corner.
2) III, 25m. Climb rightwards up the corner then move back left up a ramp to the arete Continue just left of the arete to a stance on the edge.
3) III+, 20m. Climb a slab left of the arete for 10m then move back right until crossing the arete again to a stance just on the right side.
4) IV-, 25m. Keeping on the right of the arete , make a rising traverse right on good holds then as you near the right edge, climb direct for a few metres before moving back left to a stance on the left arete.
5) IV-, 20m. Climb direct on the arete to a good stance.
6) III, 15m. Follow a ledge left, then climb a short wall direct to reach the summit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A six pitch trad route that is well eqiped with fixed gear - Fr3+, Fr3, Fr3+, Fr4, Fr3, Fr2. It takes the obvious line of least resistance & polish up the slabby north side of the tower. Highly recommended!
Abseil ring / hooks can be found to the west via a little chimney and a quick free hanging 40m decent to base.

Photo: Topout waves © IanMcC
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 86 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/15 with Patrick H

Pat-H - AltLd - Sep/15 with Masa

With Chris Beeks. His first multi-pitch climb. Very cold!
gringo1804 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/15

kirky_p - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/15

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 31/Aug/15 with Clare

katiet - AltLd - 30/Aug/15 with Steve Shorrock

Steve Shorrock - AltLd - 30/Aug/15 with Katie Towers

Lead 2nd and 4th pitches
andyclimber - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/15

nice easy romp
cayteye - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/15 with Peri

philmitch - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/15

winged_traveller - Jul/15

polished start. Couldnt find any pro on first part of pitch 4 . Nice ab
HP9 - Lead - 11/Jun/15 with Annika Sivlerberg

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Sep/14

Hidden - Sep/14

tcn_2002 - Lead - 08/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/13

fishjh2 - 2nd - 04/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13

katherinesydney - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with leeds james

Marq - Lead rpt - 31/Aug/13 with Vicky Lisle

a polished start
Vicky L - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Marq

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/13 with Kris

Hidden - 05/Aug/13

Louvet - 05/Aug/13 with Tarquin

Fun, plus nice 50m free hanging abseil to descend, led p1,3,5
Robin Brooke - Lead - Aug/13 with Paula Ryan

In 4 pitches, very interesting root finding. 1st pitch condition was polished.
moviti - Lead O/S - Aug/13 with Norico

Led pitches 2 and 4. Awesome abseil!
henry.jeffreys - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/13 with Sam Hockley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/13

Totally rad dude
thetradlad - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/13 with Harry Yarrow, Chris Stepanek

Mike-W-99 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Fiona

Done in 4 pitches, guidebook describes it as 5 pitches, led 1 & 2 combined and pitch 4. Totally wild 40m free hanging abseil!
Fiona Reid - AltLd - 17/Jul/13 with Mike

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13

ClimberJimmyB - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Dan Matthewman

Pryan - AltLd - Jul/13 with Robin Brooke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12

Went left at the top into a committing crack, about HS
Daniel Heath - Solo O/S - 19/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/12

7 Pitches with 40m Abseil
Jamescdykes - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Robert Gillman

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 28/Jul/12

Abseil was the highlight!
Will Hunt - 24/Jul/12 with John Puddephatt

johnpuddephatt - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Will Hunt

jshields - AltLd - 10/Jul/12 with Steve Ebbens

Very close lightening strike while on summit, took a soaking on the abb off, roped appeared jammed for a while, but was able to free after storm passed. All good fun!
Sankey - AltLd - 10/Jul/12 with Jon

John Nuttall - Lead - 05/Jul/12 with Sharon

tcn_2002 - Lead - 05/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/11

ScottyD - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

rch3l - AltLd - Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/11

Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 22/Jul/11 with Cath Sullivan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/11

Very easy, very good. Climbed in 3 pitches.
IanMcC - AltLd - 12/Jul/11 with Scott Bamford, SimonN

SimonN - AltLd - 12/Jul/11 with Scott, Ian McCabe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/10

John HW - Lead - 21/Jun/10 with 2 x Students

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jun/10

EmileCilliers - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/10

uphillnow - 2010 with Stuart Holmes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/09

Marq - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/09 with Andrew Funnell

RD P1 and 4
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Gareth H, Jayne

Led pitches 2, 3 and 5
GarethHall - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Jayne Jackson, Robert Dufton

ratm - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/09 with Matt Forshaw

MartF - 2nd - 20/Jul/09 with Ben Crook, Matt

Pitches 1,3 and 5. Abseil off was amazing!
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Peter Drake

selbs83 - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead - Jul/08

Protheroe - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Kyle Mosley

tallsop - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

Hidden - 2008

Led Ps 1,3,5.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/06 with MikeW, James

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 17/Jul/06 with Anne-Marie

Got lost and climbed direct variations on the 2nd and 3rd pitches at about VS 4c. Decent route.
AndyP - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/06 with Jamie

Good route and well grades, Felt like VS 4c as we went a bit direct.
Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/06 with Andy porter

Getting off caused a problem as we had only taken one rope. Better learn a bit more Italian. Had to abseil the route. Fortunately nobody was coming up.
MikeDowsett - Lead - 24/Jun/06 with Kris Scheinkonig

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/05

crossdressingrodney - AltLd - 16/Jul/02 with scouse pete

victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/02

JamieAyres - Lead O/S - Jul/86 with Jude Ayres

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
vix, syv_k

Total votes cast 32
hard III-0 of 0
III-0 of 0
easy III-0 of 0
hard IV-0 of 0
IV-0 of 0
easy IV-0 of 0
hard XII+0 of 0
XII+0 of 0
easy XII+0 of 0
3 Stars13 of 16
2 Stars2 of 16
1 Star1 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat