Restricted Access
Some of the rock here is very loose and pegs may be missing or in very poor condition. The top is also very overgrown at present making it very difficult to get to the abseil points.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Variable restriction sometimes apply - see on-site signing. There is usually a restriction from 1st March - 1st August affecting the whole crag, assume thsi is in place unless signage says differently...
45m, 2 pitches.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the wall for 5m, move right, and surmount an overhang via a crack in its left edge. Continue to the short corner in the horizontal break above.
2) 5a, 25m. Step left and climb direct to a brown band. Turn the wall above on the left, move right, and finish direct.
2) 5a, 25m. Step left and climb direct to a brown band. Turn the wall above on the left, move right, and finish direct.
FA. J.Hall, W.Wintrip 30/May/1982.
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Guidebooks for Abermawr Area
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Route of Interest
Heart of Darkness/New Morning
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Mowing Word)