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Midi-Plan Traverse*** AD

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Traverse of the Aiguilles >>
[Descending the midi arete, 1 kb]Follow the snow ridge NE from the Midi station to the Col du Plan. Turn rock sections by snow couloirs on the Chamonix face to the Rognon du Plan. From here follow the rock arete a short way before abseiling on the Envers side to the Col sup du Plan. On the return journey there is a short pitch of IV to reascend the Rognon du Plan. Note, most French books rate this AD for the return journey to the midi, PD if you descend the Envers du Plan glacier.

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, Top quality Alps under 4000m.

Photo: Descending the midi arete © Dan-gerMouse
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 237 logbooks, and on 35 wishlists.

Only to Col du Plan as we slept in and only wanted a half day, would like to finish!
joe.91 - Solo - 01/Oct/13 with Thomas Reid

Pete23 - AltLd - 29/Aug/13 with Stephen Mors

jameslam - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Olaf

Amazing climb with great views. Snow was a bit sketchy on way back, would reccommend leaving very early for this one.
mauchie - Solo - 03/Aug/13 with Jamie Evans, Karen Pickering

robgixer - Aug/13

TommyMcG - Aug/13

peter.herd - 20/Jul/13 with Sinclair Cooper

Hidden - Jul/13

Turned back at second col as didn't fancy reversing the steep snow.
Gumery - AltLd dnf - 26/Jun/13 with Naomi

Bad snow conditions. Backed off before the first long traverse.
Mr Fuller - AltLd dnf - 25/Jun/13 with Paul Gibbison, Joe Barker

Only to Rognon du Plan due to poor conditions.
Eddie1234 - Lead - Jun/13 with Bill Spittal, Andrew Cherry

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/13

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

walts4 - 2013

jcw - 2013

James Thacker - 2013

Thought it would be a doddle. how wrong can you be. A great route.
Tony Kartawick - AltLd rpt - 2013 with James Thomas

nking100 - 2013

alasdair19 - 2013

Great route on the ridge: not hard, but good fun and great views all along. Started on the ridge at 9.30 due to late telepheriques at this time of year. The plan was to turn around after about 3 hours since last cable car down from the Midi was at 4.30. We foolishly took the guidebook at its word that the descent to Montenvers would take 3 hours: the summit of the Plan was calling too intensely, and featured some wonderful cramponing rock steps. The descent was a disaster, though: after negotiating the bergschrund we spent many hours weaving through chaotic serac bands and crevasse fields down the Envers glacier. Reached the moraine/buttress below in the dark and so missed the unlit Requin hut -- we bivvied below the hut at midnight and made the long scree/moraine descent to Monetenvers the next morning -- in a thunderstorm for extra fun. Glacier descent highly discouraged!
andybuckley - 23/Sep/12 with Gerhard Brandt

rosieposey14 - 07/Sep/12

alias dave - 03/Sep/12 with Sam.EB

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Sep/12

Ashley Hold - AltLd - Sep/12 with Torquil Bennett

Wind slabbed slope stopped us
samsimpson - AltLd dnf - 15/Aug/12 with Emily Ward

Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with james wilson

Just under 8hr return
climb_this - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Ewan Russell

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 17/Jul/12

nia - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with harry

In both directions, 8 hours return.
Kirill - Lead - 12/Jul/12 with James, Michael

Nigel Bond - Solo - 07/Jul/12 with Bern Hardman

Hidden - 07/Jul/12

Ditched our third member part way along (sorry Rob) to make for a much faster traverse. There and back again, about 4.5hrs each way.
67hours - 04/Jul/12 with Becky H

Started moving together as a party of three, but left the others at the Rognon du plan as they were not comfortable moving as a three on this terrain and soloed back to the valley Blanche, 2.5 hours to Rognon do plan, 1h 20mins back after hanging around to watch the sunrise and get some awesome photos
R_W_M - 04/Jul/12

Really great route, though I really wasn't feeling great for the return.
Katherine Ross - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/12 with Charlie Beard

In both directions - battled a dilapidated Katherine back to the Midi in about 9 Hr
cbeard - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/12 with Katherine Ross

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jul/12

Camped on the Vallee Blanche and set off round 5am to make use of good snow conditions. Summited just after 9, fantastic route. Descended down to the mer de glace unexpectedly, which made for a very long walk home.
Ragingpossum - AltLd - 23/Jun/12 with Joe Bowers, harry kingston

sacdenouilles - AltLd - 23/Jun/12 with J F Philippe

JKBowers - AltLd - 23/Jun/12 with Harry Kingston, William Bourne

Slept in the midi station and got up at 5am to get good snow conditions. Summited the plan after 3 1/2 hours with ease. We returned back along the ridge to the midi station, which was much more difficult. I found ascending the 2nd absail particularly tricky. Excellent route though!
mcgovern - Lead - Jun/12 with K-Man

np134 - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/11 with C. Price

Moved together for most of it. 13 hours return! Amazing route. Though almost got hit by rock fall in the decent of the couloir!
inspiration_needed - 2nd O/S - Aug/11 with Mat

Poor ice/snow conditions. Climbed some of the rognons en route. The Envers du plan glacier was VERY bare. Walked back to cham. Long day'
mickd - AltLd - Aug/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/11

7 hours return from the Aiguille du midi
jo86 - 30/Jul/11

Jim Brownlow - AltLd - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/11

Final snow slope was in a state. Wisely turned around and went back to the midi.
Karl Wooffindin - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/11 with Ollie Hemstock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/11

Bailed at the Col du Plan and descended to the Glacier du Tacul/Mer de Glace. Only a super-human could get from the Midi to Montenver train station in 7 hours (guidebook time)!
catemuir - AltLd dnf - 25/Jul/11 with Liz Thomas, Josh Waller

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 25/Jul/11

First semi-epic. The route was too snowy and we were too slow, ended up deciding to walk down the glacier because the route would be a swim. Navigating a snowy glacier in a white out turned out to be quite hard. Ended up bivvying on the Mer de Glasse because it got dark and we couldn't find the stairs to get off.
matthewjames - AltLd dnf - 25/Jul/11

TheLiz - 25/Jul/11 with Cate, Josh

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 25/Jul/11

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Alex Porter

joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Dave King

d_meacher - Lead O/S - Jul/11 with Stephen Griggs

steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - Jul/11

wi11 - AltLd dnf - 28/May/11 with Dan gibson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10

Completed in 3 hours. Could not work out which way to go in the last pitch, and followed the party who had been after and overtook us.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Max C

Hidden - 15/Sep/10

Hidden - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - 12/Sep/10

Took us quite a long time. We missed the first passage on the Chamonix side after col du plan and went on the rocks on the Envers side instead, with two pitches of spicy III/IV, then an abseil back en route. The rest was a bit icy but otherwise in decent conditions. We decided not to continue with the whole Aiguilles traverse after seeing the already late hour.
Alexandre Buisse - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/10 with Nic Mullin

hmngarh - Sep/10

Turned back early poor conditions.
Shonkhor - 2nd dnf - 26/Aug/10 with Guy, James

Really hot day. The snow was bad by 8:30, decided to turn back.
Poco Loco - Lead dnf - 26/Aug/10 with Will, Guy Pomeroy

Hidden - 22/Aug/10

We were going well, but got unnecessarily spooked by a guide turning back just short of the Aiguille Plan. Still, good fun non the less.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 13/Aug/10 with Hannah Evans

Not a cloud in the sky, fantastic views, sunburnt neck.
PeteH - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Dave Leonard

DaveLeonard - AltLd - 09/Aug/10 with PeteH

declanj - Aug/10

Jack Doyle - Aug/10 with mishell

westaway - 27/Jul/10

Done as a return trip. Fantastic route, tricky last couple of moves to get to the very top of the plan as the ledges were iced. Be acclimatised, as its a fairly good slog, esecially back to the Midi.
vincentvega - 25/Jul/10 with danny robb

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 11/Jul/10

Turned back because of heat. Beautiful route
1andrew1 - AltLd - 11/Jul/10 with Drew

Backed off due to rapidly-melting route.
stephenmckenzie - AltLd dnf - 11/Jul/10 with James Chesmer, Ben Jeffreys

Descended Envers glacier to Requin hut, then down to Montenvers.
groovy_nut - 08/Jul/10 with Patrick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/10

A fantastic day, Ally's first of the trip. Finished in good time and descended to the Requin Hut, Mer de Glace and Le Montenvers.
AMarchant - 07/Jul/10 with Ally Hurst, Stu Air

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jul/10

centurion05 - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/10

Surprised by the exposure on the ridge, and knackered from the altitude by the end, but a great route
JGW - Jul/10 with Matt Tilley

liamo333 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

gallonj - Jul/10

Hidden - Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/10

Bristoldave - Lead - 23/Jun/10 with CarolineH

CarolineH - 23/Jun/10 with Dave

Hidden - Jun/10

chopin-smith - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/10

Hidden - 2010

very dry and icy made for slow progress. decended the envers glacier which is very badly crevassed
david0811 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Mark Reid

Hidden - 07/Aug/09

Hidden - 21/Jul/09

Moved together. Hadn't been up to the Aiguille tdu Plan before. Went down the glacier to the Requin hut - it's pretty gnarly!
bullwinkle - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/09 with Bart Shaw

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 07/Jul/09 with Quiet Ian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/09

Didn't make Aiguille du plan summit, descended glacier.
stuart34 - AltLd dnf - 29/Jun/09 with Stuart Buchan, James Monypenny

scottbecker - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Mark Jarvie

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/09

Hidden - Jun/09

thecurlyone - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Liam McGuane

brockers - AltLd O/S - 2009 with CarlZ

barksmo - 2009

Did most of the route solo but teamed up with french couple at the Rognon and ascended / descended Aig de Plan then reascended the rognon with them.
nickdonohue - Oct/08

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 27/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 26/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/08

Jack00 - 08/Aug/08 with Tim, Darren, Laura

awesome situations but easy. Long descent via requin and over heavily crevassed mer de glacé
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/08 with andy & warren

Got the second bin up 6.40pm. Amazing climbing, gob smacking situations on airy snow arêtes. Nothing to technical but a very long day. Did the route midi to plan in guide book time 4hrs. The decent took far to long 5 1/2 hrs to montivers. We when very slowly down a knarly looking but easy envers glacier. After a we rest at the requin hut we also managed to get lost for about 2hrs in the mer de glace/tucal/luacho glacier join. This was very crevassed and required loads of jumping and back tracking. Managed to the get the train tho :)
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/08 with Neil Mackenzie, Warren

The ridge itself has some nice easy climbing and good situations, but quite short. Had great fun getting stuck in the middle of the crevasse field of the mer de glace.
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/08 with Andy and Neil

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/08

JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

jimsrankin - AltLd - Aug/08 with Mel

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/08

felixthelion - AltLd - 29/Jul/08 with T. Brookes

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/08 with MRT

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08

robertporter - Jul/08

Neil D - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with Jonny Phillips

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 25/Jun/08

Hidden - Jun/08

AndrewJenkins - 2008

existing debt - 2008 with roger

Hidden - 2008

Dave - AltLd - 2008

First day in the mountains, set off late due to getting sorted out and as a result DNF. Backed off before the abseil as had to get back for last lift down. Bit of an epic for our first day........but excellent route. Will be back.
markfairbank - Lead dnf - 26/Aug/07 with SteveyM

SteveMyatt - AltLd dnf - 26/Aug/07 with Mark Fairbank

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/07

Rob84 - Lead - Aug/07 with Sam Strong

SamStrong - AltLd - Aug/07 with Rob Dyer

Guide used (Dave Hollinger and Willy ?)
Martyn - 2nd - Aug/07 with James Williams

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/07

Moved together on most of it
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Ant F

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 08/Jul/07

also finished at rognon du plan
david morse - Jul/07 with ric moat and jon denniss

Hidden - Jul/07

Hidden - Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07

LardClimber - Jul/07 with Dave Williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/07

matthias13 - AltLd - 30/Jun/07 with Dan Parker, Kevin Charleston

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 17/Jun/07

what a good route! turned back due to unexpected difficulties and conditions at around the 1st rognon.
JonHarvey - AltLd dnf - 17/Jun/07 with Jay Jackson and Sharon Hooper

shazhooper - Jun/07 with Jon Harvey, Jay Jackson

Did not complete as it was 1st day out and had to get back for last cable car.
cliffy - Jun/07 with Alan Turner

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/07

rob stokes - AltLd dnf - May/07 with rebecca

Almost died but the views were good.
Tobias at Home - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/06 with Bag

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Sep/06

Moved together as a four, but DNF
KeithW - 09/Sep/06 with Nick Ferguson

dave657 - Sep/06 with mel_1

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/06 with Dom, Rich, Matt Croll

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/06 with Rich Siddle

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - Jun/06

sebastien - 2nd - Jun/06

gavinjd - 2006

hilled101 - AltLd - 2006 with irish paul

feilx - Aug/05 with Dan Barbour

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Felix Coxwell

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 19/Jul/05

AJM - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Ronan Kavanagh

chrissloan84 - Jul/05 with Sim

Hidden - Jul/05

dan cowley - AltLd O/S - Sep/04 with Angus Murray and John Maguire

Alpandy - Jul/04

Ed Saint - Jul/04

220bpm - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Dave

adamscottthomas - Lead - 09/Jul/03 with Ian Johnson

Danhan - 05/Jul/03 with James D, Dave W, Steve

easers - AltLd - 09/Jun/03 with Doug Aitken

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - 2003

Out and back. Beautiful narrow snow arete shortly after leaving the Midi. All in all, a very aesthetic route, with superb views along the ridge.
Andy Clarke - AltLd - 27/Jul/02 with MikeW

Got to Rognon du Plan do to strength of party.
Martyn - Lead dnf - Aug/01 with James Williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/01

Stone Muppet - 2001

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Aug/99

andrewbooth1000 - Lead rpt - Aug/99 with Neil Urquhart & Neal Poad

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/99

gwedgwood - 2nd - Jul/99 with Geraldine Achard

olekemi - Solo O/S - 10/Jan/98

Did this the same day as the Cosmiques Ridge
andrewbooth1000 - AltLd O/S - Jul/97 with Andy from Oxford Uni

with random bloke from campsite
andybrown114 - Lead - Jul/97 with Campsite bloke

Rob Kennard - 1997 with James Dunlop, Paul Andrews

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/96 with LiamG

Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/95 with Ian Mathias

auld al - Solo O/S - Jul/95

frost - Jul/94 with S Raw

craig h - AltLd - Aug/93 with Jim Mellor

Hidden - 30/Jul/93

with Sandy & Jamie Ogilvie. Descent via Envers Glacier, Mer de Glace and missed the last 'Phrique down!
ill_bill - 11/Aug/92 with Sandy Ogilvie

Tony Prendergast - Aug/92 with Susan Oldfield, Mike Cleary

Hidden - Solo - 30/Jul/92

ChrisJD - AltLd - Jul/91

Hidden - 02/Aug/90

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Aug/89

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/89

Hidden - 1989

Done from the Plan to the Midi, following an ascent of the south face of the Plan
Tony Buckley - Aug/88 with Richard Brockman

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/88

snow plod in spectacular surroundings. tiring if unfit!
Grezza - Solo - Jun/88 with JuJu

John Marsland - Aug/87 with Dave Soles

freeheel47 - Jul/87

sacdenouilles - AltLd - Jun/87

Andy Chubb - Lead - Jun/86

PeteCheung - AltLd - 1986 with Alan

Didn't actually get toPplan. Got back to Midi station late and bivvied there.
eroica64 - AltLd - 10/Sep/85 with John Graeme

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jul/85

garywalker147 - 1985

biggianthead - 30/Aug/83 with G

Richard Weller - Aug/83 with Paul Mavin

turned back t the col du plan superior s it started to snow and wrmed up. Returned to the midi station
andy tetsill - AltLd - Aug/83 with Richard

John Marsland - 1982 with Eduardo Martinez

Hidden - Lead - 03/Sep/80

mark-abz - Jul/80 with ?

Hidden - Solo - Aug/79

beaumap - Lead - Jul/79 with Stan Tanner

Hidden - Lead - 1976

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 11/Aug/72

mikej - AltLd - Jul/68 with Hugh Lane

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Voting
Total votes cast 49
hard AD+0 of 26
AD+2 of 26
easy AD+0 of 26
hard AD1 of 26
AD19 of 26
easy AD2 of 26
hard AD-2 of 26
AD-0 of 26
easy AD-0 of 26
3 Stars22 of 23
2 Stars1 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
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Style of ascent

Soloed10 of 237 (4.2%)
Lead31 of 237 (13.1%)
Followed12 of 237 (5.1%)
Alt Leads102 of 237 (43.0%)
Unknown82 of 237 (34.6%)

'Climbed'145 of 237 (61.2%)
clean O/S60 of 237 (25.3%)
clean rpt4 of 237 (1.7%)
dnf28 of 237 (11.8%)